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OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE here E32 : Very early Top Gear video of the E32 735 from YouTube English          
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Adding E38 class to your car:  why not? English   Swapping in the E38 shifter  (jump to top) The E32 is a woody car so some people were disappointed by the black plastic T-shifter.The E38 came with a luxe looking barrel shifter and it is possible to add it to your E38.This will take time and some effort.Let's see what the result is -- not bird's eye maple but much better than beforethis owner went the whole way and added the E38 base plate and the leather bootSince the E38 shifter is taller the gear shift rod on the E32 has to be cut.The original notch for the E32 shifter runs left-right. The new notch for the E38 shifter runs front-back.The new notched is about 5 mm wide and 10 mm deep.Note also that the top 30 mm or so of the shifter has to be ground down from 15 mm OD to 14 mm ODThe E38 shifter is a press fit so this reduction in diameter is important.This compares the E32 rod (top) to E38 rod. The internal actuator (white plastic) has to be shortened accordingly. The top left inset shows the amount remaining.To fit the E38 base, mark up the E32 wood base and cut with a dremel  -- carefully -- check the E38 base plate for suitable dimensions.This shows the final cut out shape for the E38 platethis shows E38 panel and base plateThe E38 gear indicator panel needs to reworked since the E38 has 5 fwd gears.The electrical details are here by Erwin  (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : We cut up an old LAD bombe -- just for your edification English Shogun below E32:  Pictures of a sliced and diced E32:  see the sunroof drain in situ DDhereVariousReplacing incandenscent pea bulbs with LEDs: good detail and photosJapanese Cutting up the bombe  (jump to top) We recently replaced both bombes on an E32 M70 Alpina. Shogun immediately took a hacksaw and cut up an old one.This photo shows the rubber diaphram in place. Difficult to see but there is a light gauge metal ring that locks the diaphram to the bombe.   We also made a video here.this is without the diaphram Sliced and diced E32:  (jump to top)Rubber pipe is the RHS sunroof drain
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Replacing M70 exhaust with twin mufflers English   Replacing M70 exhaust with twin mufflers  (jump to top) It is possible. Many people have asked about it, as the fuel tank and the spare wheel are in the way.Here some pics showing the secret. The mufflers have to be installed upright to find space (or glasspacks which are smaller in diameter. The connection between left and right side is under the rear bumper.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE here E32 : Very early Top Gear video of the E32 735 from YouTube English          
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE here E32 : Dimensions of M70 camshaft setting tools -- pin English   here E32:  Dimensions of M70 camshaft setting tools -- lock plate   below M70 Most simple fan removal tool -- a small spannner -- should be slightly offset/bent type  Shogun below various Camshaft locking tool - for M40 M43 M70 M73 -- have a look  and drool Fan removal tool - simple  (jump to top)Camshaft locking tool   (jump to top)for engine models M40 M43 M70 M73image of the pins will come soon
MODELS LINKS Language ASC-T (1996 318ti) quite complete description of how it works general text below English           ASC-T (1996 318ti)Just like antilock brakes (ABS), BMWs Automatic Stability Control + Traction (ASC + T) system utilizes the concept of using electronic control to enable the tires to be loaded up to their maximum level of adhesion.There are some differences about what ASC + T has to deal with compared to ABS. ABS has to control the braking force at all four wheels. ASC + T has to control the power delivery of the engine, and the way the rear differential distributes torque between the two back wheels. The overall objective is quite similar, to enable each rear wheel to be powered to the limit of its adhesion, and to stabilize the car from spinning out when power is over-applied.The car's first traction problem comes from the differential.The differential is a gear unit that couples the rear wheels to the single driveshaft coming from the transmission. It has to transmit power from the transmission, while allowing the rear wheels to spin at different speeds. The wheels need to turn at different speeds because when the car goes around a corner, the outside wheels have a longer path to travel than the inner ones do. If both back wheels were directly coupled to each other (forcing them to both turn at the same speed), then they would 'fight' any effort of the driver steering around a corner.Think of a bulldozer with a caterpillar tread on each side. This machine doesn't have a steering wheel. The driver steers it by controlling the speed of each tread. To go in a straight line, both tracks go at the same speed. To turn, one tread goes faster than the other (maybe even in the opposite direction).A car, on the other hand, relies on wheels that can be pointed with a steering wheel as the main method of steering control, not variations in driveline power/speed distribution. The driveline needs to just go along with whatever wheel speed differences occur from the car being steered. (The new Honda Prelude type SH is probably the first car to attempt to distribute power in a way to activate steering, but it's a new exception).A conventional differential is a set of gears that couples twisting forces of three devices (in a car's case, the transmission and two wheels). Torque must be distributed to all three. Under normal conditions, both wheels are coupled together through the ground. In this situation, torque can be transmitted from the transmission to both wheels.If the coupling of the two wheels through the ground is disrupted (as when a wheel is spinning), then the differential can't usefully distribute the torque. All of the power is being applied to the spinning wheel, and not to the wheel that still has traction.There have been a number of different differential designs to counter this problem, with varying degrees of effectiveness, complexity, cost, and side-effects. Collectively these are referred to as Limited Slip Differentials. I'm not going to get into these right now, but they are a very interesting topic for discussion.An electronic traction control system can help prevent a wheel from spinning by applying that wheel's brake. This not only maximizes the traction at that wheel, but more importantly it enables the differential to apply power to the other wheel, which probably has more traction.The car's second traction problem is when the torque from the engine exceeds the total traction available at both wheels. An electronic traction control system can deal with this problem by reducing the engine output.On 318ti's with traction control, the ASC + T is integrated with the ABS functions. There is a single electronic control unit (with more processing power than an ABS-only unit), and the same four spinning toothed rings with magnetic pickups to determine individual wheel speeds.The hydraulic control unit has four channels. The ABS-only unit has three channels, only one for both rear wheels. Separate rear channels are required for individual control of rear wheel spin. (This could also mean that the ASC + T system has even better braking performance).The ASC + T control unit has a high-speed (CAN) data link to the main engine control unit, and has control of a throttle actuator motor. This allows it to reduce engine power.There is a dashboard switch that allows the ASC + T to be disabled (but the ABS functions remain active).The ASC + T system determines that a wheel is spinning by comparing the rear wheels' speed to the front. Also, there is probably a maximum wheel acceleration threshold built into the system.The ASC + T system intervenes in two stages: When it detects one rear wheel near the threshold of adhesion, it starts to rapid pulse the brake to that wheel (just like ABS). When the second rear wheel nears the limit of adhesion, engine power is reduced.The first stage (single wheel braking) actually improves vehicle performance. The second stage (engine reduction) doesn't improve performance available, but it adjusts output so that all that is available is fully utilized.The dashboard ASC + T light only flashes when the system enters the second stage, and is reducing engine power. It doesn't flash when the system is only braking a wheel about to slip. This can be demonstrated most easily in the snow. By using the dashboard button to turn ASC + T on and off, it becomes immediately apparent that it is assisting traction even when the light doesn't come on.The first stage can apply braking power in two levels. From 0 to 25MPH, a high level of braking force is pulsed to a wheel about to slip. >From 25MPH to 62MPH, a reduced level of braking force is used (this is both to reduce brake heating, as well as to smooth out operation). Above 62MPH the brakes aren't applied, and the first stage is inactive.I think the system overall works extremely well. It makes accelerating on slippery or uneven surfaces a piece of cake. It offers a tremendous safety margin by intervening if you apply the gas too hard in a corner. It's much harder to get the car to snap around this way (the balanced weight distribution also is a big improvement over the E30 3-series). It allows much more power to get to the ground when taking off around a corner.The drawbacks to this system are that it isn't fully operational at high speeds, and that it sometimes intervenes too harshly for 'enthusiastic' driving.With either a regular or a limited slip differential, if you get a little too hot on the power in a corner, the back end will start to come around. If you catch it quick enough, you can adjust the power so that the car doesn't spin, but still keep the suspension loaded up, maintaining an oversteering attitude. This can be the quickest way through a corner.With ASC + T, if you get to the point of the back coming around, the system will really shut down the power. It keeps you safe, but you've just lost your speed and suspension attitude through the corner. It is for this reason that most people turn it off for track use.I've found that this problem can be overcome to a degree by driving style. Remember that the first stage of ASC + T intervention (pulsing a brake) actually helps the car get through a corner faster. It's the second stage (engine power reduction) that needs to be avoided. The best approach is to read a corner accurately so that you get into it just right. I'll be the first to admit that it's very difficult to do this with consistency.Another thing that I've found by experiment is that the sensitivity of the ASC + T system varies. The firmware appears to be adaptive, that is, it readjusts itself based on past experience. If I can take several corners in succession where just the first intervention stage occurs, each one can be taken harder. I've actually gotten it to the point where I can get some pretty major oversteer going, with the back end really coming around to help me walk it around tight corners. The great thing is that I'm getting a lot of extra traction from the first stage. It's like driving a limited slip with a very high degree of lock-up.The thing is, once I a have a corner where I've pushed it too hard so that the system kicks in, the threshold sensitivity goes way back up, so I have to have several more 'good' corners before the system readjusts itself to where I like it. In other words, if one corner doesn't go so good, the next ones have to suffer too. I sure wish there was a switch on the dashboard with one position for normal driving, and another position for a 'sport' mode with a higher engine cutback threshold.I almost always drive with ASC + T enabled. With practice, I've found that I can get through corners as well, or better than with it switched off. I like the extra margin of safety it provides. I also think that because it forces me to read corners better and drive smoother to prevent it from shutting down the power, it helps me to learn to be a better driver. I haven't had this car on the track yet. I'll have to admit that it's entirely possible that I'll join the crowd and turn it off there.I would really appreciate hearing from others who have experimented with ASC + T to see if they've come up with any other suggestions or comments about how the system reacts, and the best way to 'drive' it.Oh, by the way. For completeness I should mention, as the owners manual does, that it helps to turn off ASC + T when you need to rock the car to get it unstuck in deep snow.
MODELS LINKS Language Brake booster: H31 hydraulic booster system 750 models E32: below English          BRAKE BOOSTER H31  (jump to top) OK, this is my first stab at explaining the H31 system. I welcome corrections additions etc.When BMW stuck the M70 engine in the E32 body it found that space in the engine room was tight, very tight. So tight that the old reliable vacumm booster system could not be used. In addition, the M70 was the flagship model and something more high tech was called for. BMW took a look at Citroen's hydraulic systems and decided to create the H31 system. A fully hydraulic system with decent power reserves -- good braking was possible even if the engine was not turning over. The H31 system consists of - a regular hydraulic braking system consisting of       1) master cylinder with reservoir  << need specified fluid>>              single ouput line to       2) brake proportioning valve to set front wheel/back wheel balance  <<pressure switches important??>>              two output lines to       3) ABS system to prevent wheel lockup under braking  <<good E32 - specific description??>>              four output lines to       4) ASC-T system to prevent rear wheel spinning (description here)              two output lines to rear calipers???       5) individual brake calipersThe hydraulic fluid moves in the order shown, from 1-> 2-> 3-> 4-> 5.The next components are H31 specific.       6) hydraulic pump - uses Pentosin <<details needed>>       7) hydraulic pressure accumulator with pressure adjuster (bombe)       8) booster  -- the ket to it all.The booster takes the brake pedal position, converts it into mechanical pressure, and uses it to drive the master cylinder.The booster has one hydraulic input (from bombe) and one hydraulic relief line (to Pentosin reservoir)Now how does the booster work and what can go wrong?This is a cutaway of the boosterThe control piston is fixed to the actuator -- depress the brake pedal and the control piston moves further into the seal plug. This allows Pentosin from the bombe to enter the purple region behind the bobbin. The pressure difference between the purple and green regions generates the force needed to drive the master cylinder -- the bobbin moves to the left which cuts the flow of Pentosin to the purple region  -- this stabilises the brake system. Note that the left hand end of the control piston is open to the green region to release the pressure. Release the brake pedal, the control piston moves to the right and the flow of Pentosin is cut basically to zero. That heavy duty spring in the green region pushes the bobbin back to the right. Problems:a) the o-ring around the actuator leaks --> Pentosin is lostb) the spring-loaded seal for the output shaft leaks --> Pentosin is lostc) the seals on the bobbin leak --> brake power may dropd) the pressure release ports (lefthand end of the seal plug become blocked) --> brakes may become partially or fully locked
MODELS LINKS Language LAD strut and damper (only photos for now) E32 & E34 touring below English LAD technical details   E32: below German EDC technical details    E32: below German      LAD (jump to top) (jump to top) LAD and EDC Technical Details (jump to top)EDC Technical Details (jump to top)(jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Mr. Injector here general Fuel injectors - parts - on E-bay English here E32 specific: English here E38 specific:   English here general monster list of BMW suppliers 50 companies listed English   here general hydraulic hose suppliers for  SAE 100R2 Type AT: Gale recommends Gates or Parker for hot oil apps English   here general hydraulic hose suppliers for  SAE 100R2 Type AT: Gale recommends Gates or Parker for hot oil apps English   here general hydraulic hose suppliers for  SAE 100R2 Type AT: Gale recommends Gates or Parker for hot oil apps English   here general HP hydraulic hose crimping tools English Kingsborne  here general Make your own ignition wire sets! English  
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Johan&Sean here E32:  repairs and information E32 -- good write ups English Take here E32: Good detail and coverage -- lots of photos Japanese Schrauber here E32 E34: All sorts of information LPG conversion German Timm here E32: timm's 7-series repairs and information E32 English Timm here E38: timm's 7-series repairs and information E38 English John Burns here all early details - specifications -comments BMW history --very interesting English Gale  here E32 E34: many repairs listed - good detailscross drilled banjo bolts for oil spray bar English  Ed Raether here E31 so E32: M70 MWRENCH Ed Raether Tech Tips  E31, M70  V12, White papers. and more English  Tom Carter here E31 so E32: M70 Wuffer.net  - Tom Carter E31 8 Series Tech Tips English  Jon Evans here E31 so E32: M70 Jon Evans Website:  English  Bruno here E34: Bruno English here ?? lots BMW wikiwiki  large collection English Max here E32: Max's BMW E32 page English Axford here E32: 735 Paul Axford's Web Site -- Maintaining my BMW 730i "big six" : English Kristoffersen here many collection of repair reports English Hofgesang here E34: repairs etc German    
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE E38 ORG here E23 specific: very full list of information/procedures English E38 ORG here E32 specific: very full list of information/procedures English E38 ORG  here E38 specific: very full list of information/procedures English E31 org here E31 so E32 lots of stuff English MotorRevision  here German  E32 Japan here E32: E32 Club Japan  (japanese language)    
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Zeckhausen here general Brakes -- grab bag of information English InnerAuto here general 100's of graphics, thousand of descriptive links and animations. English      
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Jon Evans here E32 : Electric rear sun blind: great write up -- good detail and good photos English  factory here E32 E34 Manual rear sun blind: factory instructions and drawings 22 page PDF German  Shogun below E32: Rear side window quartershade will not retract fully: English  Shogun below E32: Rear window: Replace the worn gear: text and 2 photos English Retensioning the rear window quarter window shade   (jump to top) The deluxe E32 models have small triangular sun/privacy blinds that often do not fully retract into the frame. You simply rewind the spring as follows.Remove the small plastic cap on the upper end of the shade frame and remove the phillips screw. Tilt the top of the frame inwards and then lift it out of the bottom clip.Now you have to stop the bottom end of the shade from rolling, use some paper is one idea. Now pull out the small metal pin of the shade from its slot at the top of the frame and 'rewind' the spring.Be careful, not too tight, it might break.Reinsert the pin into its slot without allowing the pin to turn. My solution was roughly cut a notch in a piece of tough plastic boardthat prevented the pin from turning. Position the pin/board over the slot and then push the pin in.Replacing worn gear of rear window electric shade   (jump to top)remove rear seats and arm rest.bow rear shelf and move forward.drive blind up until about 4 cm above shelf - cut power.disconnect 4 pin plug on passenger side and take shelf out of car.remove L&R end plugs on the moving top rail - small phillips driver.remove 6 10 mm nuts holding aluminum rail/assembly to shelf.move rail/assembly forward to release 3 clips.pull extended blind through the shelf to completely free rail/assembly.# there are likely to be some flat spacers (washers) on some the six bolts - make a note of where each goes -- some sticky tape would stop them from falling off.disconnect motor plug from controller.with 3 mm allen key remove small countersunk bolt holding the circular plate to the gearbox.use flat screwdriver to remove circular plate from driving peg of gearbox.# note the orientation of the arms to the plate.mark the positions of the 3 phillips bolts holding the motor-gearbox to the rail.remove the 3 phillips bolts.remove the three 4 mm torque bolts holding cover to gearbox.remove cover of gearbox.while pushing down on the main gear, remove the fiber transfer gear. -- careful, the axle of this gear can fall out.the main gear should jump anticlockwise about 10-15 degrees.while pushing down on the main gear, remove the end bolt from the end of the gearbox.the main gear should jump anticlockwise about 120 degrees.lift out the main gear.turn the main gear over and remove the spring.put the spring into the new main gear making sure that the outer end of the spring engages on the studuse a marking pen to indicate the region of full height gear teeth.turn the new main gear over and replace in the gearbox after lightly greasing the teeth.## the inner end of the spring must fit into the gap in the post of the gearbox -- can be difficult to get it in.while pushing down on the main gear, use a crescent wrench on the driving peg to turn the main gear clockwise about 140 degrees -- check the markings to make sure that the full height gear teeth region is clear of the end bolt.reinstall the end bolt and slowly release the pressure on the wrench. -- the main gear should rotate anticlockwise until the full height gear teeth region hits the bolt.insert the axle of the transfer gear into its socket in the gearbox.install transfer gear onto axle and push until it mates with both the main gear and the worm gear on the motor.reinstall gearbox cover -- it does not fit down completely just yet.install the end bolt at the end of the cover - should be fairly loose.with small pickle fork or similar, push down on the transfer gear axle until it enters its socket on gearbox cover -- can be difficult.NOTE:  push from the motor towards the axle of the main gear.if you're lucky the axle will slip in and you can squeeze the cover completely flat.reinstall the other bolts and tighten all of them.remount the motor-gearbox onto the rail and hold loosely with one bolt.put rail/assembly back into the car and reconnect the 4 pin blind connector.## drive the motor by switching "blind up" so that the driving peg rotates about 15 degrees -- disconnect the motor connector to keep this rotation.remount the circular plate onto the driving peg -- the blind should be extended by a few cm.reinstall the countersunk bolt and the other bolts holding the motor to the rail -- make sure that the motor is in original position.insert the blind through the shelf, reengage the three clips, and reinstall the 6 nuts# you did remember to keep the spacer washers in the right places?reinstall the two end plugs on the top rail.reconnect the motor to the controller.reconnect the 4 pin plug and check that the blind moves over its full range.remount the shelf and reinstall the seats etc.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Flap covering the fuel cap: photos English  Shogun below E32: Fixing an ashtray that sticks when opening: photos English  David here E32: Removing the sun roof: English Shogun below E32: Clearing sun roof drains: English Take below E32: Rebuilding seal on sun roof: mostly photos English Shogun below E32: Fog light washer nozle replacement: text only English Shogun below E32: Removing the bumpers: simple text with photos English Shogun below E32: Replacing the rubber door handle gaskets:  easy w/ photos English Fuel Flap  (jump to top) We found today that you can easily remove the fuel filling flap without breaking the clips! The flap is held on by 3 clips that are integral to the hinge. What you need is a thin hooked probe, as shown here. The hook here is about 3mm long and is a right angle.  Additional photos below. The hook is placed into the spaces indicated and twisted to release the plastic hooks (yellow arrows) from the square metal mounting plate on the chassis. It may help to look at the new hinge to see what is needed. The trick is that you must pull the flap away from the car quite strongly to stop the clips from springing back. Start with the bottom one, then the top one, and finally the 3rd clip-- red arrow. With the flap off, release the spring from the hinge (green arrow below) Use a small flat screwdriver to lift up the mounting clips (2 black arrows below) and slide the hinge off the flap. Lubricate the flap clips of the new hinge with with some silicon dry grease (yellow arrows below) and  mount the new hinge. Remount the hinge to the chassis  --- you are done! For better understanding -- the two clips are shown here more clearly between the  pairs of yellow dots -- the moving hinge part has been turned all the back to open the hinge completely. And from the "backside" of the hinge. Repairing the Sticking Ashtray (jump to top) Shogun's 89/90 750 had a sticking ashtray. Here is how we fixed it. Removing the ashtray assembly Models: E32 (early models where the lighter raises up when you pull the tray out) Tools: 8 mm socket and 10 cm hexagonal extension bar that can drive the socket a really small open wrench that can drive the extension bar this is what it looks like 1. Remove the IHKA panel 2. Position the socket over the hex heads of the 2 screws and use the spanner to drive the extension-socket assembly 3. Suggest that you bend the arm of the wrench -- not much force is needed to break the 2 screws free. 4. With the 2 screws out, the ashtray assembly can be turned and extracted. No need to remove the console!! Fixing the sticking ashtray Models: E32 Tools: Small flat blade screwdriver and some epoxy putty (putty type and suitable for plastic) Background: The lighter should rise up when the ashtray is opened. There is a pin on the lighter carrier that follows a track formed on the ashtray case. Unfortunately, the track is weak right next to an internal light and if it breaks the pin jumps out of the track and jams everything up. Easy to fix. This what it looks like broken 1. Remove the ashtray assembly 2. Remove the metal ashtray 3. Pull out the traveling carrier gently -- you may need to raise the lighter with your finger to prevent it from jamming 4. Use the screwdriver to push in the two retainers (at the front on either side at the bottom) on the stationary carrier 5. Clean the broken track and surrounding area with ethanol 6. Mix a very small amount of epoxy putty and roll it into a bar about 3mm in dia and 2cm long 7, Position the bar behind the broken track and press it down till it fills the gap and provides a lot of support. 8. Use the plastic tool that came with the putty to flatten the putty so that it does not project above the level of the original tracks 9. Check that you have a smooth curve on the putty -- wait 30" -- reassemble and enjoy your never-sticking ashtray. After repair Clearing the sunroof drains (jump to top) Q: Have discovered water in the driver's foot well. On investigation there is dampness in the head lining above the driver's seat. Also there is water soaking in the interior driver's door seal to the front and also water pooling on the thresh hold, again towards the front of the car. I have read a couple of threads questioning where does the sunroof drain to, based upon similar symptoms. My question to anybody in the know is: Clearly the leak is somewhere between the sunroof gutter and the drain pipe which as I understand is routed down the A pillar. 1/ how do you remove the headlining to investigate? 2/ is there a regular fail somewhere in the pipework to look out for? 3/ is it the case that the drain just gets blocked with debris due to age and if so what is the best strategy to clear the block? A: Have now solved the leak from the sunroof. The drain pipe was blocked holding water all the way up to the sunroof gutter. When it rained the gutter filled up and flowed over across the headlining and into the drivers well (no pun intended) To fix: VERSION 1/ Measure a length of plastic covered wire, sufficient to go the distance from the sunroof gutter to the sill via the A piller + a good bit to tug on. I used 17amp wire which is stiff enough to be pushed down the drain without collapsing and flexible enough to go round the bends. Gently feed the wire into the drain untill it wont go any further, hopefully the wire has cleared the blockage and is now in the sill. When I did this a wee drip appeared below the sill but still a bit blocked. VERSION 2/ Take a good length of 6mm soft rubber tube a push gently into the drain. Form an air tight seal to prevent blow back. (I used electrical tape wrapped round the rubber tube). I use a compressed air cannister which I detached from an air horn, the sort you get at football matches or used by small boats in fog. Prise off the horn attachment and in turn attach the rubber tube and blast the drain. I had instant success. The drain now p#sses like a racehorse! AFTER:  The foot well needs to dry out. There is a covenient drain hole in the battery compartment between the battery and the rear O/S door. (It probably has a rubber tube in it as I think this is a vent for the battery gasses) Any way put the front of the car up on ramps and all the water conveniently drains to the battery compartment, best left for a couple of days, and drains out the vent hole. Used a vax water sucking machine to suck up surplus water through carpet. Got a loan of a small portable de-humidifier unit and ran it for 24 hours to finish the job. Need to make sure the car is as air tight as possible otherwise you'll be de-humidifying the planet!! Rebuilding seal on sun roof: (jump to top) Take's 750iL was raining on the inside! Very wet. He tried clearing the drains but nothing worked. Finally he removed the sun roof and found the edges had rusted so much that the rubber sealing strip no longer worked. This is the condition that caused the leaks The rubber seal did not have enough surface to seal against He used regular solder to rebuild the edge of the sun roof. Problem solved, no more leaks! Replacing the fog light washer nozzle:   (jump to top) Parts: Fog Light Washer Jet – 61 67 1 378 616 O-Ring – 64 50 8 390 601 Wait until it is above freezing to attempt this job. There are some small plastic pieces in the washer system in the bumper that may become brittle in the cold and break. Remove fog light: Pull off trim next to fog light. Pull on the side of the trim nearest the fog light to remove it. Remove top exposed Philips head screw (the bottom one adjusts fog light aim) and remove fog light. Remove fog light mount bracket: This is attached on one side with two screws that face the car and a plastic ball joint on the other. Remove two screws and pull out ball joint. You should be able to touch the jet and its mounting nut through the fog light hole. The jet is attached to the bumper with a 19mm hex plastic nut. Before loosening the nut, remove the “L” shaped fitting from the washer jet by pulling it straight up. It snaps on the washer jet fitting so you may need a little leverage to pop it off. All that’s left is to loosen the plastic nut and the washer nozzle will drop out. This is the hardest part of the whole job. First try to get a 19mm crescent wrench on the nut. If this doesn’t fit or the nut is in the wrong orientation, I used a small pair of vise grips. You only need to loosen it a little before you will be able to turn the nut with your fingers. Installation is the reverse of removal. One risk with the job is that you may end up with a slow washer fluid leak (as I did). I am hoping it is slow enough that it may cure itself. The problem is that the rubber gasket for the washer pump does not provide a good seal to the tank.  The passenger side is harder than the driver’s side because there is less room with all the washer fluid lines in the bumper in that area. Good luck, Removing the bumpers     (jump to top) Remove with a plus driver the screws holding the covers of the spray nozzles for the headlights Next the screw holding the nozzles themselves. The nozzles just pop out. Now pull with your hands carefully the chrome piece on top of the bumper (carefully) at bit till you see the 4 clips With a minus driver push these clips down carefully  (careful, they break easy) and then pull the chrome piece out. Now remove the 2 main bolts, either torx or inbus type heads, depending on built year. Now pull with your hands on each side of the bumper and pull the bumper forwars. At the sides the bumper is only in sliders which hold it. No need to remove any screws. Do not pull the bumper too much forward if your car has headlight and fog lights spray nozzles. Remove these hoses behind the bumper -- the quick release fittings tend to break so be gentle Same applies if your car has PDC, remove the 4 connections before you remove the bumper completely. The rear bumper  is basically the same but of course without the nozzles etc. (jump to top) Replacing the rubber door handle gaskets  (jump to top) After a few years the rubber gaskets under the door handles become brittle and cracked. Time to replace them.The dealer will only sell you the complete door handle as a set -- not just the gasket.There are several private suppliers -- good quality and reliable. Check on Bimmerboard.This is the set of 4 new gaskets. They are simple to replace -- only these tools are neededFirst, remove the rubber plug in the door frame next to the handleFirst the center plug, then its holder.Insert the ring into the frame, hook the lever behind the top of the handle, and pull the level backwards.This releases the front plate.The front plate lifts out of the bottom clips.Remove the old gasket - check how it fits -- and then clean the plate and the door recess.Spray the new gasket with your favorite rubber protection and fit it to the plate.Make sure that the plate fits down completely in the gasket.Insert the bottom hooks into the door and swing the plate into the recess.Holding the plate against the door, push the lever frontwards so that it catches the top hooks on the plate. Push hard until the lever is really in position.Reinstall your plugsCheck that the gasket is not caught under the plate (use a fine pick or driver to tease out any lip undr the plate) -- step back and admire your handiwork. (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Johan&Sean here E32 general: Rebuild brake calipers:  Excellent write up -- good detail and good photos English  Commercial below general: Bremsenreparatur / Erstausrüsterliste / Bremsencheck und mehr: writeup and photos German  Shogun below E32: Replacing brake bombe: English Bremsenreparatur / Erstausrüsterliste / Bremsencheck und mehr (jump to top) Beginn der Bremsenreparatur Bremsscheibe und/oder Bremsbeläge haben die Verschleißgrenze erreicht. Vor Beginn der Bremsenreparatur müssen alle relevanten Bauteile im Bereich der Achse und der Hydraulik überprüft werden. Defekte Teile sind zwingend zu ersetzen!             Entrostung der Anlagefläche und Narbe Nach Demontage der alten Bremsscheibe, muss die Anlagefläche sowie der Nabenrand mit geeigneten Werkzeugen (z.B. Drahtbürste, Schmirgelpapier, Topfbürste) gereinigt werden. Achtung: Radnaben nicht beschädigen! Der Sattel der noch mit der Hydraulik verbunden ist, muss so fixiert werden, das keine Zugbelastung auf den Bremsschlauch ausgeübt wird.         Reinigung der Anlagefläche und der Nabe Von Rost befreite, metallisch blanke Anlagefläche mittels Bremsenreiniger TEXTAR "Formula XT" reinigen. Wir empfehlen die gereinigte Nabe auf eventuelle Planlaufabweichungen mit einem entsprechenden Messwerkzeug zu überprüfen (Messuhr mit Stativ). Entrostung der Führungsschächte und des Sattelträgers Die Führungsschächte des ausgebauten Sattelträgers, je nach Konstruktion, mit Drahtbürste bzw. Sattelfeile von Rost und Rückständen befreien. Achtung: Sattelträger nicht beschädugen! Sichtprüfung des Trägers auf Beschädigung. Fetten der Führungsflächen und des Sattelträgers Die gereinigten Führungsflächen am Sattelträger mit einem nicht leitfähigen, hitzebeständigen und festbestandteillosen (metallfreien) Mittel fetten (B). Keine Kupferpaste verwenden! Befestigung der Bremsscheibe neue Bremsscheibe auf Radnabe fixieren und - je nach Bauart und System - mit Halteschrauben befestigen. Wir empfehlen die neuen Bremsscheiben mittels Messuhr am Fahrzeug, ca. 15 mm unterhalb vom größtmöglichen Radius, auf Seitenschlag zu vermessen. Optimalerweise wird diese Messung mit vorschriftsmäßig montiertem Rad durchgeführt. Rückführung des Bremskolbens Die Rückführung des Bremskolbens sollte grundsätzlich mit geeigneten Rückstellwerkzeugen erfolgen, um ein Verkanten oder Verdrehen des Kolbens zu vermeiden. Zu Beachten sind hierbei die verschiedenen Ausführungen der Sättel bzw. der Bremssysteme sowie herstellerspezifische Vorschriften. Fetten derAnlagepunkte Die Verwendung von metallfreiem Dauerschmierstoff (TEXTAR CERA TEC) auf der Rückenplatte ist bei Belagausführungen mit sogenannten Sekundärmaßnahmen, wie z.B. aufgebrachten Dämmlacken oder -blechen, nicht erforderlich. Lediglich im Bereich der Anlagepunkte des Belages in den Führungsschächten ist ein Fetten unverzichtbar. Bei allen Schritten des Reparaturvorganges sind die Drehmomente und die Vorgaben bzw. Richtlinien der Fahrzeug- und Systemhersteller zu beachten. Beginn der Bremsenreparatur Bremsscheibe und/oder Bremsbeläge haben die Verschleißgrenze erreicht. Vor Beginn der Bremsenreparatur müssen alle relevanten Bauteile im Bereich der Achse und der Hydraulik überprüft werden. Defekte Teile sind zwingend zu ersetzen!             Entrostung der Anlagefläche und Narbe Nach Demontage der alten Bremsscheibe, muss die Anlagefläche sowie der Nabenrand mit geeigneten Werkzeugen (z.B. Drahtbürste, Schmirgelpapier, Topfbürste) gereinigt werden. Achtung: Radnaben nicht beschädigen! Der Sattel der noch mit der Hydraulik verbunden ist, muss so fixiert werden, das keine Zugbelastung auf den Bremsschlauch ausgeübt wird.         Reinigung der Anlagefläche und der Nabe Von Rost befreite, metallisch blanke Anlagefläche mittels Bremsenreiniger TEXTAR "Formula XT" reinigen. Wir empfehlen die gereinigte Nabe auf eventuelle Planlaufabweichungen mit einem entsprechenden Messwerkzeug zu überprüfen (Messuhr mit Stativ). Entrostung der Führungsschächte und des Sattelträgers Die Führungsschächte des ausgebauten Sattelträgers, je nach Konstruktion, mit Drahtbürste bzw. Sattelfeile von Rost und Rückständen befreien. Achtung: Sattelträger nicht beschädugen! Sichtprüfung des Trägers auf Beschädigung. Fetten der Führungsflächen und des Sattelträgers Die gereinigten Führungsflächen am Sattelträger mit einem nicht leitfähigen, hitzebeständigen und festbestandteillosen (metallfreien) Mittel fetten (B). Keine Kupferpaste verwenden! Befestigung der Bremsscheibe neue Bremsscheibe auf Radnabe fixieren und - je nach Bauart und System - mit Halteschrauben befestigen. Wir empfehlen die neuen Bremsscheiben mittels Messuhr am Fahrzeug, ca. 15 mm unterhalb vom größtmöglichen Radius, auf Seitenschlag zu vermessen. Optimalerweise wird diese Messung mit vorschriftsmäßig montiertem Rad durchgeführt. Rückführung des Bremskolbens Die Rückführung des Bremskolbens sollte grundsätzlich mit geeigneten Rückstellwerkzeugen erfolgen, um ein Verkanten oder Verdrehen des Kolbens zu vermeiden. Zu Beachten sind hierbei die verschiedenen Ausführungen der Sättel bzw. der Bremssysteme sowie herstellerspezifische Vorschriften. Fetten derAnlagepunkte Die Verwendung von metallfreiem Dauerschmierstoff (TEXTAR CERA TEC) auf der Rückenplatte ist bei Belagausführungen mit sogenannten Sekundärmaßnahmen, wie z.B. aufgebrachten Dämmlacken oder -blechen, nicht erforderlich. Lediglich im Bereich der Anlagepunkte des Belages in den Führungsschächten ist ein Fetten unverzichtbar. Bei allen Schritten des Reparaturvorganges sind die Drehmomente und die Vorgaben bzw. Richtlinien der Fahrzeug- und Systemhersteller zu beachten.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Lagergreen  here E34 : Blower motor:   large doc' file English  Shogun here E34: Heater core, remove and replace: no photos English  Shogun below ?? Repair brushes in blower motor: no text  many photos GalehereE32:Removal of Blower: good photosEnglish Shogun below E32: Resolder IHKA: English ShogunhereE32:More detailed repair with IC replacement:  good photosEnglishShaynehereE32:Sword repair:  good photos and detailEnglishShogunbelowE32:Remounting flap actuator motors -- photo examplesEnglishShogunbelowE32:Room temperature thermistor:  dirty or failed, with photosEnglishShogunbelowE32:Room temperature thermistor fan:  squeaking noise, with photosEnglishShogunbelowE32:Clean / Repair the water valves:English Resolder IHKA (jump to top) When there is a problem with the IKHA, usually people suspect the control panel, the sword, water valves, and very often the flaps and stepper motors. Flaps and stepper motors are simple things and can be checked very easy. The sword's only function for the IHKA is that it is controlled/gets signals from the IHKA module, which sits behind the sword and has 4 plugs (white, blue, yellow, green, 2 each side). The module is basically responsible for the whole IHKA functions AND (what many people do not know) also the rear window heater. Inside the IHKA module there is the CPU for the temperature feelers, stepper motors, heater valves, which only carries out the orders (settings) thru the control panel in front of the driver and just acts according to the programs (which you select by pushing the buttons) selected by you. So the module is the heart of the whole system or better to say the brain. There are about 30 different modules available, depending on the options in the car when it was once ordered. So when you buy a spare module (which I recommend for testing and emergency (used one is much cheaper)) first check the part number on your installed module. Resolder all points in the system, even if you do not see haircracks. Also when you remove the module in case there might be a defect, usually they can be resoldered/repaired. Also have a look at the connections where the 4 arrows are, which sometimes get loose or have a short connection.Repair brushes in blower motor (jump to top) (jump to top)Remounting flap actuator motors (jump to top)The IHKA assembly is quite large, complex, and expensive. Quite often it is the small problems that cause you problems. The heating cooling system on the E32 uses 10 air flow control flaps with 10 actuator motors. Johan has created a fine page with all details/photos here, check the details. I'll wait for you here. The main problem is BMW overkill. The flaps are opened/closed by cranks driven by powerful gear sets --- but  the limit controls are too basic. Each time you turn the ignition on, all actuator motors drive to their physical "limit", wait for 10 seconds, and return to the position dictated by the user controls. Unfortunately, the limit is determined by some rather thin plastic (part of the actuator mounting base) and often the crank breaks the plastic which leads to loss of heating cooling functions. The DIY solution is to make a metal strap replacement for the plastic. The trick is find good mounting points for the strap since the IHKA case consists of rather weak plastic and the crank power is really high.First, this shows the  actuator motor with crank; Design movement (green arc) and the crank movement if the plastic is broken (blue arcs)This shows a typical broken case. The actuator motor is mounted on the back of this plate so that the crank can be connected to the flap arm (the gray rod in the center)This shows one arrangment created by a local BMW owner.note the bolt and screws that hold the metal strap.Here is a detailed view(jump to top)Room temperature thermistor:  (jump to top)The room temperator thermistor is set just behind the front of the control panel.There is a small motor with a fan that passes cabin air over this thermistor -- so with age the thermistor can become incredibly dirty.Carefully clean it with brake cleaner. Check that the solder joints are not cracked.When clean, measure the resistance. The design values are given hereIf the resistance is wrong for the temperature at which it was measured, the thermistor could be cracked -- It is a simple job to desolder the failed unit and solder in the new one.(jump to top)Room temperature thermistor fan:  (jump to top)The heater control panel started to sound like there were mice in the panel, so I took out the control panel, removed the 3 plugs on the back, removed the plastic cover from the fan housing on the back, then removed the fan completely after unplugging the fan wire socket (2 wires). The fan is set inside of 2 rubber/foam halves to prevent vibration noise. Cleaned the fan propeller, used some lube spray on left and right for the bearing (hopefully it found it's way in), then made a test run with fan connected with 2 wires to the plus pole in engine room and ground. No more sound, so installed everything and so far it works well. Will disassemble it once more as I forgot to clean the temp sensor inside, and I will use another lube oil which is used normally for sewing machines. Check the control panel, worth to get the dirt out Clean-Repair the Water Valves (jump to top)The water valves are shown here -- after removing the plastic cover plate.Remove the 4 nuts holding the water valves down and unplug the two connectorsLoosen and remove the water pipe from the engine to the pump and the pipes to the heater cores.Lift out the water valve assembly.Loosen and remove the pipes to the pumpUnscrew the 6 bolts holding the top and bottom halves of the water valve assembly.Use a minus driver to separate the two halves - carefullyThis is often the condition after long time in service. Clean the valves and determine if the sealing surfaces are still good.These below are rather poor -- should be changed -- the stems are badly corroded.Check the rubber seals for cracks -- if they become hard they don't seal well.Here is a good set for comparison.Replacement is the simple reverse of the above.Note; under the black plastic lid, there are some wires and capacitors. If the solenoid coils show an open circuit -- some wire is broken -- you may need to force the lid off. This next photo shows what is under the plug mounting points. Looks like one of the bottom wires is broken. (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 E34 E31: Replacement of all clutch plates: No write up -- just many many photos   4HP24 tranny repair after 200 k km  rickm here E32 E34 E31: Replace A clutch plates: write and photos English       Gearbox Overhaul Click on a thumbnail to get full size image
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE rickm here E32: Replacement of front seal and spacer: Good write up -- many photos  Replacement of ring seals on shaft: Good write up -- many photos          
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 specific: Der Reset wird folgendermaßen vorgenommen:  German Shogun pdf E32 specific: Weitere Resets German Shogun below E32 specific: Hard reset -- clear all default values from control systems with relearn procedure English Shogun  E32 M70 specific: SYNCHRONIZATION OF V12 BANKS If the EML is replaced or without power for more than 1 hour it is likely to loose the stored synchronization values for that engine. Resynchronization is as follows 1. Run engine to operating temperature 2. In first gear, do 3 times, coast from 5000 rpm to idle 3. With car stationary (P/N) idle the engine for at least 5 minutes Shogun E32 M70 specific: Emergency mysterious EML reset   1. All doors, hood and trunk must be closed (not locked). Open the drivers door WIDE   2. Now close the drivers door and lock the car.   3. Unlock the car again and again open the drivers door WIDE.   4. Sit down on driver's seat and close the drivers door (NOT locking)   5. Push the brake pedal and keep it pushed down.   6. Now insert the ignition key into the ignition lockand set it on position 1.   7. Remove your foot from brake pedal (release) and remove the key from the ignition key.   Your engine should (temporarily) run without EML message, = no limpmode  Shogun here E32 M70 specific: rough idle/no power M70 -basics to check  -- good details English Johan/Sean  here E32: Replace defective EML control light English Shogun here E32: OBC backlight fix:  PDF file English E31 forum here E32: IR Schliessanlage IR-remote and Alarm Training German ShogunbelowE32:IR-remote reinitializeEnglish Shogun here E32: LKM and mustard relay fix English Shogun here E32: Additional LKM fix English Shayne here E32: Jumper to test fuel pump: good photo  735iL English jimmybones here E32: Replacing lightbulbs of OBC:  lots of photos English Johan here E32: Retrofitting "Check Engine" light to non-US cars :  lots of photos English Kibokojoe below E32: Opening and Cleaning G/B Program selector switch (S300): English Der Reset wird folgendermaßen vorgenommen: (jump to top)Der Reset wird folgendermaßen vorgenommen: 1. Batterie abklemmen (zuerst - , dann +)2. Zündschlüssel nur auf "Zündung ein" (Nicht auf "Anlassen")3. Die beiden Fahrzeugkabel (+ ; -) für 10 Minuten zusammenhalten.4. Zündung wieder aus5. Batterie wieder anklemmen (zuerst + dann -)6. Fertig  Vier Dinge hat der Reset gebracht: 1. Traumstandgas(Die kleinen Aussetzer im Standgas sind Vergangenheit) 2. Schalten tut er butterweich, und zur richtigen Zeit !! 3. Seit dem ich den Wagen habe, lebte ich mit Leistungsschwankungenbei extremen Beschleunigungsphasen !Und nun habe ich voll per Kick Down von 70-220 durchgezogen ,und er ging wie eine Rakete, ohne die Gänge reinzuknallen,und ohne Leistungsschwankungen ! 4. Bei Beschleunigung aus dem Stand verschluckt er sich nicht mehr !  Nachtrag/Ergänzung: Der Knackpunkt ist über die richtige Reihenfolge hinausauch das erneute "Anlernen" der adaptiven Getriebesteuerungund das neue Synchronisieren der Zylinderbänke durch die EML. (siehe Bild)  Motor warmlaufen lassen.Während der Testfahrt 3 x ueber 5000 UPM in Schaltstellung I (ca. 10 Sekunden).Dann Motor wenigstens 5 Minuten in P oder N laufen lassen. Weitere Ergänzung:Im US board nachgefragt.Hier eine einfache und gute Gleichung/Erklaerung: As you drive Mr. Computer makes adjustments to things it can controland saves parts of these data in memory which remainsthere as long as the memory has power, and that's normally along time, measured in years since the battery is rechargedas you drive and the &quot;always- on&quot; electronics takes daysor weeks to drain a huge car battery if the car is not driven. However, any memory is subject to a glitch that might corruptthe data in memory. This could be from a software error,a hardware error, or perhaps even a lightning strike that causes ahuge pulse of energy. It only takes one bit to flip to cause a huge error.For example, consider these two 16-bit binary numbers and their decimal equivalents:1100 1100 1100 1100=52428.1000 1100 1100 1100=36044. So, the bottom line, yes a reset COULD make a big differenceif Mr. Computer is trying to adjust things based on corrupt data.Remember the data of the ongoing Mars mission becamecorrupted and JPL had to do a reset on the rover. Kurze Übersetzung/Interpretation : Man hat eine Scheibe geputzt und die Elektronik sieht jetzt alles viel klarer....... Ergänzung Update 18.3.2004 Frage: Heißt das, dass der reset bei meinem L ohne Ausbau des hinteren elektr. Einzelsitzes geht (1,5 h Arbeit !), wenn ich die Masse rechts unter der Auflage des hinteren elektr. Einzelsitzes (von aussen zugänglich !) abklemme und dann im Motorraum Plus mit Masse verbinde ? Antwort: Dazu genuegt es auch, den Minuspol an der Sitzbank abzuklemmen und das Ueberbrueckungskabel an den Pluspol im Motorraum und irgendwo an Masse anzuschliessen.Zum Ueberbruecken der Pole / Batterieanschlusskabel kann man auch ein normales Ueberbrueckungskabel nehmen. Es ist extra ein Plus-Anschluss im Motorraum, damit bei leerer Batterie nicht die Rueckbank (der Ruecksitz) zum Ueberbruecken ausgebaut werden muss.Vom Pluspol im Motorraum geht ein dickes Kabel durch den rechten Schweller zum Batterie-Pluspol.Wenn vorher das Massekabel der Batterie am Blech der Rueckbank entfernt wurde, kann im Motorraum nix mehr funken, weil die Batterie die Energiequelle ist, aber kein geschlossener Stromkreis in der Batterie existiert, wenn das Massekabel weg ist. Sollte der Stromkreis wegen Alzheimer geschlossen sein, dann wird's erst kraeftig funken, das Kabel wird saumaessig heiss und dann wird auch schon die 50 Ampere Schmelz-Flachsicherung, die auf ein Pertinax-Plaettchen aufgenietet ist und &quot;in&quot; dem dicken Pluskabel sitzt, durchgeschmolzen sein.Diese Sicherung sieht man meist nicht, weil sie fast schon im Schweller und mit Schrumpfschlauch umhuellt ist.Das andere, nicht so dicke Pluskabel an der Batterie fuer die normalen Verbraucher, hat auch so eine Flachsicherung. und die naechste Erfolgsmeldung SHOGUN RESET Procedure  & Testimonial (jump to top)Notes:The reset procedure is billed as a ‘cheap fix’. It does often give good immediate results, however if there is something wrong with your car then over a 2-8 week period the car will likely return to its original state.The reset procedure removes all mean values stored by your onboard computer that control engine timing, fuel use etc. As you continue to drive the car, the stored values ‘average out’ to best suit the engine condition.If your car has for example a leaking intake manifold gasket or broken O2 sensors, the readings are quickly going to become ‘corrupted’ with incorrect information. This can lead to the engine running too rich or too lean (check your sparks for evidence). Within a short period of time the car will return to rough idle as the underlying problem has not been fixed. That said – the reset procedure can reset values that are no longer applicable. You may have replaced something on the car (e.g. Catalytic Converters) thus causing a sudden change in normal engine running. The readings stored over 10-20 years will suddenly not suit you recently modified car. The car will however read new values in and average out over time. The Reset procedure simply speeds that process up.The long and short of it is that this procedure can sometimes fix rough idle and transmission timing and seems to improve the cars performance. However with existing underlying issues as outlined above – it won’t be long before the problems return. Perhaps this procedure could be used if you’re trying to sell your E32 ;-)Procedure:1. Disconnect battery cables, first negative, then positive.2. Cover and protect the battery posts! Leave no potential of a battery short circuit.3. Turn ignition to position II.4. Connect both battery cables ("SHORT") for at least 10 minutes. This step drains a capacitor in the ECU/TCU. (Covered the battery with a thick, dry shop towel to prevent actually shorting the battery! – careful of arc welding the back seat! As the battery is still in place, and the cables aren't that long, you could use a very long Craftsman screwdriver and two small vice-grips to actually clamp the negative and positive cables to the metal shank of the screwdriver.5. Wait 10 minutes - then ignition off, key out.6. Reconnect battery positive, then negative.7. OBC says "PPPP", reset time. Start and idle the engine for 5 minutes, then off for five, then out for a drive.8. Now, with the car in lowest gear (one or two depending on your make), accelerate until at least 5000 rpm is reached. Allow the car to slow to idle, and then repeat two more times. Let the car idle for 5 minutes. All Done!9. Idle should smooth out over 10-12 miles; shifts should be immediately smoother.TestimonialThanks, Shogun... I would have never thought......that something as simple as a "reboot" would have fixed my problems, but I gotta tell you - black magic or not - the "full reset"-procedure worked wonders for my car!I pulled the battery cables, - then +, ignition to pos II, 'shorted' the battery cables (using a loooong Craftsman screwdriver and 2 sets of vice-grips - yes, battery posts were well isolated. No arc welding in my back seat!). Ten minutes later, ignition off, reconnect + then -, PPPP on OBC, reset clock. Ran the car 5 minutes, then shut down for 5.I can't find the words to explain the difference. I don't know if this simple act could have made this big of a difference. But first, some anecdotal info:My car always ran well. It had a bit of a lumpy idle, but pulled smoothly and strongly off idle, and had good power. The shifts were another story - at light throttle applications, the shifts would seem to be a bit 'jerky'; with hesitation on downshifts (unless I stepped down hard on the pedal) and a definitely noticable 'light thump' after 1-2 seconds at 50-52 mph (torque converter lockup?).Oh yeah, no stored fault codes via stomp test. Again, nothing unnerving - just aggravating. Trans fluid level good, color and fluid visual quality good. I cleaned the trans selector switch (it wasn't too bad), I had considered a full tranny flush (I've heard all of the banter on the board, pro and con); I had checked the intake system for air leaks (none), and I thought about changing out the oxygen sensors just to see if they were the cause of the lumpy idle... I know that we're all exceptionally sensitive to the daily behavior of our E32s; I attributed a lot of these 'issues' to the fact that it is a 14-year old car, and I forced myself to just enjoy it. It was tough at times; I knew that this car should run exquisitely, not just well.BTW - I changed NOTHING between Monday evening and Tuesday morning, other than the 'reset'. Temp was nearly the same (maybe five degrees F cooler), clear, moderate humidity. Fuel level the same.Back to the 1st drive, post-reset. After an immediate start, the idle seemed to be improved - just a bit. Still a lump or two... but it could be smoother - maybe? Peak-to-peak amplitude of the 'lumps' seemed to be reduced. Selected reverse, waited for the light clunk - none! Ok, this is different...Released the brake, backed out of the garage. Is the throttle more progressive? Seems that the driveline is tighter; am I imagining this? Out into the street; drove my daughter to the high school, four miles down the road. Pulled onto a 4 lane, 50mph section of road and stepped down. Oh, man - what a difference - 1-2 shift was not perceptible, 2-3 shift was silent. 3-4 shift was... did it happen? I guess - the tach was at 1900, speed 52. What shifts?I didn't feel any shifts!I took it easy the rest of the way in to work - mostly city driving with an average speed of 40-45mph. Pulled into the garage at work, selected park, opened the door and stepped out with the engine running... or, was it?Rock solid, smooth idle. No lumps, no bumps. The car downright SOUNDS different at all speeds, including idle! I shut it off and restarted. Instant start, rock solid idle. I mean ROCK SOLID - one of those is-it-running? idles. This car has NEVER done this before.I'm amazed - but I'm also frustrated...As a mechanical engineer working for 20 years in the software business, I appreciate the value of a well-earned reboot - but, is it possible that this simple action could have made this much of a difference in the car's behavior?I understand that the Motronic ECU is adaptive - but, of course, not near as adaptive as today's OBC II+ technologies. What's more interesting is the transmission's behavior. I thought for sure that I was going to be hailing Kurt K soon - and now, my trans has miracuously healed itself (!) - it has never been this smooth in the two years I've owned this car.Is the trans control unit also adaptive? Could this actually be real?Am I still in bed, dreaming? I've had the battery disconnected a dozen times before, often for longer than an hour - but I never did the 'short' thing with the battery cables... Shogun, somebody's on to something - believe it or not!Whatever. Try it. Could be the best 10 minutes you ever spent.I'd love to hear from anyone who can concur as to the efficacy of this simple 'reset'.-Mr. Smooth Idle!Don Strimbu - mailto:dstrimbu@hotmail.comBartlett, IL USA - BMWCCA #3113951990 735i - 69,800 miles Opening and Cleaning G/B Program Selector Switch (S300):   (jump to top)This effective fix comes from Joe Kibokojoe, many thanks Joe. PO managed to pour a coke into the autobox switch and so it quit working. After I saw the price for this little jewel I decided to crack her open and see if it was repairable.Found out you can use the sharp tip of a knife and lift the switch right out of the console.Using an exacto knife, slide the blade into the side of the case as shown in the pic. Once the case is separated slide a small screwdriver in next to the exacto blade. Remove the exacto blade.Slide the screwdriver back and forth over the edge until you can align the screwdriver over the rectangular hole. There are four of them. Gently pry down on the outside of the case and force the inside of the case out. Perform this procedure on both holes on one side and then turn the case over and do the other two. Just be gentle and patient and the inner case will slide out.Once I had the two pieces separate I immediately labeled the automatic end with an "A". So I would accidentally assemble the switch wrong.First I washed the upper portion of the switch with hot water for several minutes. Until I could actuate the switch back and forth with no sticking. I then sprayed the switch with CRC electrical contact cleaner. This stuff is good on plastic parts too.Second I washed the lower portion of the switch with hot water and actuated the three white buttons while running hot water over them. This portion of the switch was full of goo and the buttons would not move up and down freely. Once the hot water flushed away the goo I let them dry and then sprayed the switch down with CRC.Then I reassembled. Works great.   (jump to top)Reinitialize the later model IR  (jump to top)Sit in the car, close driver's door, set ignition key (max. 5 seconds) in position 1 and then switch key again to 0 position.Push on your remote key (not the switchblade, the later one), button 1 (the one farest from the actual key), then pusk button 2 (next one closer to the actual key) 3 times in a very short time within 10 seconds, BUT, at the same time do NOT release button 1 (keep it pushed). Then release button 1, the LED blinls slowly for 10 seconds.Then move the sender (remote) close to the receiver (mirror), very close, but max. about 15 centimeters, then push one of the two buttons.The door locking system signals the successful function of the initialisation by locking and immeditae unlocking.In case the 'blinking' or the locking-unlocking does not happen, repeat the procedure again.If you have further remote senders for your car, they have to be initialized within 30 seconds (max. up to 4 senders per car). But when doing this, do not touch the steering wheel lock.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE rv8flyboy here E32: Double locking failed due to dirty commutators in motor -- good photos English  Shogun below E32: Resynchronize the door locks: English ShogunbelowE32:Replacing the rubber door handle gaskets:  easy w/ photosEnglish Resynchronize the door locksHow to resynchronize the door locks?• After manually locking or unlocking the system, the door locks may become unsynchronized. To synchronize the locks, close all doors, trunk lid and tailgate. Lock the passenger door by turning the key clockwise into the emergency locking position (approximately 110 degrees from position O). Unlock the driver's door. If any of the locks do not operate, repeat the locking procedure until the locking system is synchronized. This might happen if a door which is not completely closed is locked, or a door handle is lifted before the interior lock button is raised.Replacing the rubber door handle gaskets  (jump to top) After a few years the rubber gaskets under the door handles become brittle and cracked. Time to replace them.The dealer will only sell you the complete door handle as a set -- not just the gasket.There are several private suppliers -- good quality and reliable. Check on Bimmerboard.This is the set of 4 new gaskets. They are simple to replace -- only these tools are neededFirst, remove the rubber plug in the door frame next to the handleFirst the center plug, then its holder.Insert the ring into the frame, hook the lever behind the top of the handle, and pull the level backwards.This releases the front plate.The front plate lifts out of the bottom clips.Remove the old gasket - check how it fits -- and then clean the plate and the door recess.Spray the new gasket with your favorite rubber protection and fit it to the plate.Make sure that the plate fits down completely in the gasket.Insert the bottom hooks into the door and swing the plate into the recess.Holding the plate against the door, push the lever frontwards so that it catches the top hooks on the plate. Push hard until the lever is really in position.Reinstall your plugsCheck that the gasket is not caught under the plate (use a fine pick or driver to tease out any lip undr the plate) -- step back and admire your handiwork. (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Replace charging cable between alternator and distribution post : write up --with photos English       Replace charging cable between alternator and distribution post Guide for Replacing Alternator Output Cable Based on 1989/1990 750iL:: photos below text Symptom: No obvious problem, discovered by visual inspection. System voltage check showed only 11.5 volts, so battery condition was always poor. Insulation on the cable badly cracked and failing at both ends of cable tube. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=GC81&mospid=47354&btnr=11_0949&hg=11&fg=40&hl=20 Description: After nearly 20 years of continuous service the insulation has failed. While there is some argument that engine fires have been caused by shorts through the cable tube to ground, one problem that cannot be ignored is that the fine cable strands become badly corroded. Corrosion → higher resistance → higher current drop across the cable → higher temperatures → cable fuses. The battery also does not get the full voltage. Shogun's car recorded a charge voltage of 11+??? volts before replacement of the cable and 13.2 – 13.4 after replacement.  BMW wants $830 for a replacement but you can do it for about 15$. Time required: About 4 hours: the nuts holding the cable tube to head may drive you crazy due to lack of space – drove me to drink fortunately. Parts: 80 cm length of high amperage, high temperature welding cable (exact length depends on the cable tube type – BMW kept changing the design so be careful about retaining and duplicating the original cable) *** Key dimension is the external diameter, must not exceed 12 mm to permit reinstallation in the cable tube together with the Oil Level Sensor Wires Shogun's final cable: 140 A. Fujidensen WTC 22 sq mm, 12 mm OD, high temperature and flame/chemical resistant. For good measure he wrapped it with Nitoms Proself, a thin heat resistant tape – looks silver in the photos. 2 eyelets Shrink tube to suit eyelets/cable Bosch 1928402452: 3 pin plug to replace Oil Level Sensor plug at Battery Post. If it has failed. Male flat pins for this plug: Hella B 187, 050-1.00 mm2, 2.8 x 0.8 mm The Dirty Work Begins Disconnect the battery. Release the 3 electrical plugs starting with X-11 and move them away from the Battery Post Remove the cover from the Battery Post by lifting the inside vertical side and then moving the cover outwards. Remove the 13 mm nut holding the cable to the Battery Post - then the cable. Unplug the 3-pin connector for the Oil Level Sensor and release the 3 pins from the holder (if still good condition) Note the location of the 3 colored wires and release the pins if possible. Our plug just fell to pieces so the pins were undamaged. Remove the LHS MAS and intake boots, and the air filter. Remove the LHS distributor cap, plugs, and the 2 10mm acorn nuts holding the plug wire tray – remove the whole sheebang to get some space. Good idea: check the condition of the distributor center pin etc. Alternative is to remove only the plugs from the distributor cap – make sure you know which plug goes where, aftermarket caps and plugs do not have the BMW markings. Remove the 2 10mm bolts holding the cable tube to the rubber mounts on the head – one of ours failed through the rubber so it's a wise idea to have some spares. NOTE: if you have to remove a broken rubber mount put the spanner on just the nut attached to the rubber, there are 2 nuts next to each other. Point: on this model the rear bolt requires a very short 10mm spanner – say only 5 cm long – for good clearance. Unscrew the oil filter mounting bolts and tie the oil filter as far back as it will go. You need 13 mm and 10 mm wrenches with fine ratchet and swivel neck for clearance. We created one as shown. Remove the cable and sensor wire from the alternator. Note the distances of the eyelets and plugs from the ends of the cable tube. Cut and remove the cable, measure length and replicate with new cable. NOTE: the 3 Oil Level Sensor wires are still attached so do not put any pressure on them. Check the 3 Oil Level Sensor wires for damage – ours looked to be ok. Reinstall the 3 Oil Level Sensor wires and then the new cable. You might need dry lube to work the cable up the tube. Add the eyelets – we crimped them using 2 axes but if your teeth are strong go for it. Adjust the the distances of the eyelets and plugs from the ends of the cable tube. Installation is reverse of above. NOTE: please take all care and remember that all repairs are at your own risk. Insulation failure due to heat - this cable lies just above the exhaust header ! Corroded wires - less copper = higher current loss Parts Plug-wires labeled Ad-hoc wrench for alternator nuts  -- the handle must lean towards the front of the car for clearance -- fine step rachet is essential ! Old & New eyelets Crimping axesCable lubrication - silicon spray usedReinstallation
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE  Shogun below E32: M70 specific List of items to check  English Shogun  below E32: Yet another list of items English Items to check for rough engine - no start engine problems such as rough idle/no power: - 1. - The easiest way is to have a possibility for fault analysis at the dealer with a DIS, or a PEAKE fault code tool, or the stomp test. The delaer testing computer is of course the best and most comprehensive one and gives online results while the engine is running, while for example the PEAKE just can show stored results in the system. As for Peake tools, see www.peakeresearch.com Fault code test/stomp test see procedure on my website (fault codes also listed) -2.- Important is that the EML light in the dash goes on for about 2 seconds when the ignition is set to position 2, after that it should disappear. Actually there are 2 bulbs for the EML, and one of it functions as a resistor for the other one. detailed introduction to EML, how it works and what items it controls. Cockpit/cluster repair: If the EML light does not come on when ignition is in position 2, the engine will always run in limpmode. So this has to be repaired. Not many professional shops know that, they just replace the complete cluster or ECU modules because of lack of knowledge. Remove the cluster from cockpit, see Johan and Sean's page. Pay special attention when you have an airbag, all mentioned on Johan's page. Link on my website if you do not know it. Repair method: The EML light should come on when engine is started in ignition position 2 for about 2-3 seconds and then go off. This is a kind of test for the 2 bulbs inside the motherboard of the cluster. One bulb acts as a kind of resistor for the other, to speak in my no-electric expert words. People have paid hundreds or thousands of $ to repair shops because they replaced unneccessarily MOTRONICS, EML and other parts of the car, as the car was in limp mode and they could not solve the problem. Limp mode, also known as failsafe mode, limits throttle openings etc and runs off a preprogrammed setting, limits rpm and speed as well... Vmax after 2 minutes approx.50 kmh in 3rd gear, at max. 1500 RPM, no ability to climp uphill and so on. A member of 7er.com has just made a write-up with pics. Of course it is in German, but the pics are most important to understand. Main points I just translate in brief into English, I will omit the general info on how to remove the cluster from the dash, and other points known to all of you which are regular visitors on this board. Pin 16-17, the only connected soldering points of the "white" plug are to be connected to the "upper contacts" of the 2 EML lights. Option: Pin 12 of the "brown" plug to be connected (soldered) with the "lower contacts" of the EML lights. As connector he used hot glue. Leave cable long enough to assemble the cluster again. Notes: No guarantee for correct translation. It is your car when you repair it. Description is based on a cluster from a 750iL from 05/1989. If you are not able to see the pics in the link to the German board, you might have to register first. Easily done, no cost involved, and they have a very good repair page, done and maintained mainly by Erich = shogun ;-) http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthread.html?t=41084 http://www.7-forum.com/forum/attachment.html?attachmentid=5109 http://www.7-forum.com/forum/attachment.html?attachmentid=5110 http://www.7-forum.com/forum/attachment.html?attachmentid=5111 Pins location: 1 26 2 25 3 24 4 23 5 22 6 21 7 20 8 19 9 18 10 17 11 16 12 15 13 14 - 3. - In case the EML works fine, check the gear and trans mode in the cluster. If they are not shown, engine runs in limpmode. repair procedures - 4. - Visual check of the intake system. Use brake cleaner and spray it when engine is running in all areas around the intake system, but NOT into the air intake duct directly. If the RPM changes, you have an air leak somewhere. Check all the rubber connections in the intake system - 5. - Should all this not help, check by cylinder bank to identify which side of the engine is the problem. Remove one connector after the other from the throttling valves -- check if the engine stops when one is not connected. Can be done while engine is running, connecting and disconnecting. In case one cylinder bank stops the engine, concentrate on that side. But remember, the intake system you see in the car on the passenger side actually goes into the cylinder bank of the driver side and vice versa. Start changing parts from one side to the other, throttling valve, MAF. If the fault moves to the other side, you have the culprit. - 6. - I so far nothing could be found, check the area of the oxy sensors. Remove one plug of the 2 after the other, if a big change in engine running, it could be the sensors or one of them. -7.- All this provided that you already have made the basic checks such as distributor caps and rotors (often the original ones are still inside), crankshaft sensors, cylinder identification sensors, spark plugs etc. A good help is the ECU pinout, where you have the data you should be able to measure details here A Bentley Repair Manual is a must for you, as there are many data, although sometimes we find mistakes. Wiring data and other hints you find here under electronics More general list of things to check  (jump to top)That is for all E32, so your car may of may not have an idle control valve:) Spark plugs, plug wires, distributor(s), distributor rotors),ignition coils - Clean and inspect.2) Check compression – poor cylinder head compression is common for an older car. Big job to fix this.3) Use a good fuel-injector cleaning treatment into the tank – take it for a good run.4) Change fuel filter.5) Remove and clean injectors – might need to replace injectors.6) Hose to fuel pressure regulator – might be cracked/worn (buy a new one)7) Rubber hose between Airflow Meter and throttle – cracked?8) Mass Airflow meter/sensor – if dirty clean it up. Bad Air Flow Meter will cause flat spots in acceleration or erratic spots in the throttle depending on the opening of the airflow meter not usually a complete lack of power.9) Hose to air filter – cracked?10) Air filter – replace if dirty, check seals.11) Distributor cap – if eroded and worn - changed to new one12) Check fuel pressure - Replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Might need to replace Fuel Pump.13) Check and Adjust valves - throttle valves, PCV valve behind intake runner, Idle Control Valve (ICV).• ICV Idle Control Valve. Remove and clean it with brake parts cleaner. This regulates the air coming in to your intake manifold when the throttle body is closed and it tends to get dirty, sticky and the motor inside could not turn the valve properly.• Idle control valve sometime sticks open – causes issues when in Idle14) Throttle Body - Clean it out and replace the gasket (can use gasket material cut to size).15) Check all Vacuum lines.16) Conduct a ‘leak down test’ on all exhaust valves.17) Check for Oxygen (O2) sensor function tests.18) Check the wide-open throttle switch under the gas pedal.19) Check throttle position switch on the throttle body.20) Make sure connections on battery (under back seat) are very clean. Use wire brush.21) Check rubber boot between the Mass Air Flow and the DKM.22) Check for intake manifold gasket leak23) Have the transmission checked for correct functioning – (by mechanic).24) Make sure there are no other sources of drag in the driveline.25) Check coolant sensor.Try the RESET Procedure before all of above.Notes:The reset procedure is billed as a ‘cheap fix’. It does often give good immediate results, however if there is something wrong with your car (any number of issues as listed above) then over a 2-8 week period the car will likely return to its original state.The reset procedure removes all mean values stored by your onboard computer that control engine timing, fuel use etc. As you continue to drive the car, the stored values ‘average out’ to best suit the engine condition.If your car has for example a leaking intake manifold gasket or broken O2 sensors, the readings are quickly going to become ‘corrupted’ with incorrect information. This can lead to the engine running too rich or too lean (check your sparks for evidence). Within a short period of time the car will return to rough idle as the underlying problem has not been fixed. That said – the reset procedure can reset values that are no longer applicable. You may have replaced something on the car (e.g. Catalytic Converters) thus causing a sudden change in normal engine running. The readings stored over 10-20 years will suddenly not suit your recently modified car. The car will however read new values in and average out over time. The Reset procedure simply speeds that process up.The long and short of it is that this procedure can sometimes fix rough idle and transmission timing and seems to improve the cars performance. However with existing underlying issues as outlined above – it won’t be long before the problems return. Perhaps this procedure could be used if you’re trying to sell your E32 ;-)Procedure:1. Disconnect battery cables, first negative, then positive.2. Cover and protect the battery posts! Leave no potential for a battery short circuit.3. Turn ignition to position II.4. Connect both battery cables ("SHORT") for at least 10 minutes. This step drains a capacitor in the ECU/TCU. (Covered the battery with a thick, dry shop towel to prevent actually shorting the battery! – careful of arc welding in your back seat! As the battery was in place, and the cables aren't that long, you could use a very long Craftsman screwdriver and two small vice-grips to actually clamp the negative and positive cables to the metal shank of the screwdriver.5. Wait 10 minutes - then ignition off, key out.6. Reconnect battery positive, then negative.7. OBC says "PPPP", reset time. Start and idle the engine for 5 minutes, then off for five, then out for a drive.8. Now, with the car in lowest gear (one or two depending on your make), accelerate until at least 5000 rpm is reached (only M70 engine). Allow the car to slow to idle, and then repeat two more times. Let the car idle for 5 minutes. All Done!9. Idle should smooth out over 10-12 miles; shifts should be immediately smoother.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Fuel sender : write up --with photos English  Shogun here E32:735 Fuel line: replacement English ShogunhereE32:750Fuel line: BMW Service instructions for replacementEnglish  Shogun E32: Fuel evaporative cannister --  breather hose to manifold:Remove the MAF on each side, airbox also, the fan I would also remove for easier access & the washwater tank on passenger side.cannister here       hose & system here Shogun below E32: Replace fuel filter:  English    Removing - Cleaning the Fuel Sender  (jump to top)Fixing the Fuel Gauge - "Getting the Right Reading"My E32 was terrible when I first got it for trying to judge how much gas was left.Often, after about 2 minutes of highway driving, I would see the gauge drop from 1/4 full to empty (without the warning light) and the on-board computer range would get screwed-up along with it. I'd heard the sender unit could often "lose" a "sensor wire", and as the gauge seemed OK otherwise I was willing to poke around in the sensor to see what I could find.I found cleaning my sensor fixed my gauge so it read correctly - and linearly - across the whole scale.It turns out the E32 sender is based on    * a cylindrical float, riding a vertical rod    * two paralell resistance wires    * a straight on/off contact (at the bottom of the rod) triggered from the float for its "low fuel" warning    * a cylindrical housing, with baffles at the bottom, to reduce float reaction to waves on cornering etcThe float carries 2 contacts, creating a moving bridge between the sensor wires - the other ends go to the gauge. My problem seemed to be from the (very slight) varnish residue on the sensor wires - they're "wiped" by a pair of very lightly sprung contacts (BMW must have guessed that this light contact would cause problems, since the contacts are gold-plated). I cleaned mine with alcohol and the problem cleared up.Also, be aware that battery condition & load will affect the gauge. Mine would vary by about two needle widths with all lights on to all lights off when the car hasn't been used for a week or so.... dirty plugs/contacts will also give a premature empty reading.Here's how I cleaned it...    * First, get car on level in well ventilated area    * Remove trunk carpet until you see the tank access cover on the trunk floor (it's an oval black metal lid with 6-7 screws, placed to the right of the spare wheel well)    * Remove the bulbs from BOTH the courtesy lights in the trunk, so there is no spark/flame hazard. If in doubt, disconnect the battery (it's under the rear seat; remember to sort out radio security code/ alarm/ airbag issues first!)    * Let's get the sensor & pump assembly out & accessible...    * Remove the access cover - it doesn't go into the tank yet, so don't go mad about fumes yet    * You should now see the access plate entry to the tank, with the fuel out/return lines and the wiring loom    * Disconnect the wiring harness - slide the metal "frame" horizontally back towards the back of the car - this will "lift" the connector from the block. Jam the connector out of the way in by the spare wheel    * Now make sure you've got some cheap electrical tape handy    * Remove the two hoses - beware residual petrol pressure (not much on mine after having run the engine within the last 5mins). Have a rag in hand ready to soak up the spillage. DO NOT LOSE the circlip clamps down the hoses!! Give each hose a couple of turns of tape and leave a 6inch "fly" end and tape this to the floor of the trunk to keep the hose up and out of the way on the side it came from. DO NOT LET THEM GET MIXED UP.    * With a 10mm socket undo the 8 nuts holding the access plate to the tank.    * Clean the access plate (with the nuts off, they get dirt held around them) before you get any dirt in the tank too.    * Pull up the plate the first 1-2 inches firmly to release the cork gasket - mine styed with the plate    * Use two hands from now on    * Lift the plate up and out. Beware the petrol trapped in the sensor body and the hoses. Take it slowly and you can get most of it to drain back into the tank. Be careful of the end of the sensor ( the sensor is a tube about 8" long and aboout 2" diameter, with a bigger "settling tank" at the bottom) - it's a bit of a squeeze with the hoses to the pump too.    * Get the sensor/access plate clear, so that only the hoses  and wiring to the pump are left going into the tank    * Let's remove the pump now. Get your hand into the tank, and follow the hoses down to the pump. Follow the pump body down until you feel the horizontal metal flange in the tank that it sits in, then come back up to the pump mounting collar and find the two plastic tabs (180 degrees apart) that lock the pump in. Squeeze them together and then lift the pump out out of the flange.    * Lift the pump out - you can use the hoses (gently) but DON'T use the wiring. Be careful with the input filter screen at the bottom - it's fine & plastic.    * Get the whole sensor/pump assembly out of the trunk. Suggest you wrap the input gauze filter on the pump in a clean rag to protect it from being accidentally torn/poked through    * OK, now to clean the sensor...    * Get the small collar nut off the bottom of the sensor tube - don't lose it. It's the only metal thing on the bottom of the sensor tube.    * Pull the sensor tube off the metal tang it slides onto on the underside of the access plate. BE CAREFUL OF THE VERY FINE SENSOR WIRES.    * Now you can see the 3 sensor wires - the middle one is just for the low fuel level contacts, so it doesn't matter if it's "slack". The other 2 fine ones are the ones you want.    * Check the 2 fine wires are complete and soldered to their mountings. Mine were; if one of your wires is broken, it is not normal wire - it's "resistance wire" what you can get from electronics stores - problem with that is that resistance wire comes in different "strengths" (ohms/meter). Try taking a sample of a broken wire into a really good electronics hobby shop, or try for a replacement sensor.    * Clean your wires carefully - I cleaned mine with an isopropyl-alcohol computer screen wipe, and then ran the thickness of the pad/sheet between the wires and the 2 gold contacts on each side of the float (2 per wire, 4 total).    * Use the pad or alcohol or whatever to clean the harness connector pins as best you can, and the plug too. (With mine I found the best jewellers' screwdriver that was just undersize and scratched out the insides of the plug connections too. Remember, the total sensor resistance at full-empty is only something like 60-70 ohms, so any bad connection (slight resistance) is going to indicate as a prematurely empty tank...    * Rinse out any silt in the sensor body with clean petrol and discard the dregs; the "lid" on the baffle chamber can be gently popped up enough to clean in there too    * Reassemble carefully noting the following things....    * Make sure the pump tangs are engaged fully - you don't want a pump with LIVE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS floating loose in a metal tank full of petrol vapor    * Take care with the hose circlips    * Spray the access plate with a rustproofer if rusting (mine was) but AFTER reconnecting the electrics.    * DO NOT LET THE OUTSIDE OF THE PETROL LINES STAY WET WITH PETROL. The outers of petrol lines are not usually proof from softening from petrol, as they shouldn't see any of it - only the insides should. Don't let them get soft/sticky.Replacing the fuel filters  (jump to top)Remove the rear right wheel to give  a bit more clearance. Since you'll do most of the work with your head in the wheel arch make sure the car is securely supported. If you've got a ramp it would be easy to do it without removing the wheel.Procedure:With the engine running, remove fuse 23 - this is the fuel pump fuse. A few seconds later the engine will cut out, but you will have reduced the pressure in the pipes. Now switch off the ignition.Jack up and remove the right rear wheel.Loosen the two hose clips.Unscrew the 10mm bolt holding the fuel filter to the carPull off the two hoses - you will lose some petrol at this point. Most of it will be in the fuel filter itself, so have the two protective end caps off your new filter ready, you can plug the leak with them.Note which way round the old filter wasRemove the metal clip from the old filter, and the rubber band. Under there you should find an arrow indicating the flow direction. You did note which way round the filter went, didn't you? The new one needs to be fitted in the same direction. Usually the flow is from the wheel towards the centre of the car.Fit the rubber band and clip around the new filterBolt the new filter to the car, and attach the hoses to it. New hose clips would be nice.Replace the wheel, lower the car, tighten the wheel boltsReplace the fuel pump fuseStart the car - it will take a while longer than normal as it has to refill the fuel lines
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE jvrx7 below E32 : Simple:  replace speed sensor: English     Replace G/B speed sensorBest to start with a cool engine & tranny, drain the tranny pan, loosen the big nut for the return line, loosen the 6 bolts/clamps that hold the pan to the tranny, then remove the pan. ( you will get ATF on you, so wear old clothes ) loosen the two Torx bolts that hold the bracket that holds the sensor in place at the back side of the valve body, remove, slide the sensor out of it's "hole", unplug. Reverse order after plugging in the new sensor. Top off with ATF, & enjoy!
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : general text description:  English commercial  here E32: E34 E34/E32 with sunroof: English   Headliner replacement -- 750 iL w/o sunroofSource: Nov-1988 750iL, no sunroof, left hand drive, manual rear window blindJob: replace headlinerTime: say 6 hours, 2 people plus an occasional thirdGuidelines:1. Drop door rubbers from the top and both sides of all doors. You can leave the lower scuff plates in place.Drive the fronts seats forward as far as possible and remove the headrests – they pull straight out – can be stiff.2. C pillar facingsPull rear seat sidelights from C pillar casing, rear edge pulls out first.Though the space you can see (with torch) the top bayonet clip. Put your hand in behind the clip and pull straight inwards. This releases the top of the casing. The problem is that there are two lower plastic clips on the casing that are brittle and fairly easy to break if you rush it. The bottom of the casing is strongly pushed by the back seat so carefully pull the edge of the seat away from the casing and with your other hand as low down on the casing as possible, pull the casing upwards at 20 degrees and forward. You should get both clips out intact.Unplug the side lamp. That's one done now do the other!fixing a broken C-pillar clip2. B pillar Lower half casingMove the front seat forward as far as possible.With a small flat screwdriver pop out the two plastic plugs on the lower half casing. This frees the bottom of the casing. Swing the bottom out about 10 cm and pull downward. This releases the top of the casing.Upper half casingWith the lower half casing off you can see the lower 2 bayonet clips on the upper half casing. Pull straight inwards. There is another bayonet clip at the top. Put your fingers behind the upper casing and pull down and inwards.Note: the upper metal clip can fall out of its socket in the roof when you remove the upper casing. Make sure to replace it or renew it; it’s all too easy to miss this when you’re putting the liner back in.3. Remove B pillar upper seat belt mounting nut (17 mm). This allows the casing to drop into the foot well.Note: If you want to recover this casing you’ll have to release either the belt from the seat or release the belt reel from the bottom of the B pillar. 17mm bolt. We took out the belt reel but now find that the reassembled seat belts are somewhat slow to retract. If you can clean the upper casing in the car you will save some time. We were thinking to replace the covers but they cleaned up really well. Chalk this up to experience.4. "A" pillar casing3 simple bayonet clips running down the center of the casing. With fingers front and back of the casing, pull in towards the center of the car. Start with the top clip, then middle, then bottom.5. Grab handle mounting screwsNote: each handle is secured to the board by two small plastic plugs. Do not try to pull the handles off the board – just remove the mounting screws.Pull the handle down and remove the small caps with a small flat screwdriver. Take out the two nice large cross head screws. This is not as easy as you might think as the spring retractors tend to load the headliner board as the screws come out. Three hands are definitely useful to preserve the board. One person has to hold the base flat against the board while the other holds the handle down and wields the driver.6. Rear vision mirrorTurn the mirror’s stem and base anti-clockwise about 45 degrees. This should release the mirror. Remember the feel of it coming off as you will have to reinstall it later.7. Remote control switchWith your fingernails pull the remote down and unclip the wiring.8. Vanity mirror light assemblyAs per 7.9. Main ceiling light assemblyAs per 7. In our case it seemed that it was easiest to remove the left-hand end first. There is no easy electrical plug at here so leave the assembly hanging down.10. Recommendation. At this point – particularly if you’re working alone – pass two simple straps over the roof and under the headliner – one through each door opening. Once you start to release the front and rear board attachments these straps should stop the board from sagging and breaking. No need to be really tight.11. Sun visor base and end clip < 2 damn torx screws each>The guy who invented these is not my friend.Regardless, take out the screws and disconnect the wiring. One novelty of this car is that everything imaginable (and then some) is wired up. These electrical fittings are simple spade connectors and can be really tight – have a small pair of needle nose pliers handy!12. Rear window blind holdersUnscrew and remove (for some reason there is no electrical connector)13. Da boardWork your fingers between the board and the windscreen. In Shogun’s car the liner here was stuck to the windscreen sealant. Slowly pressure the liner material in 4cm sections and it should pull away from the windscreen.There are two clips on the rear edge of the board – they are about 5cm inboard from the blind holders. Put your fingers under the board and pull down.The board is now pulled backwards about 10cm which should release the clips in the center of the board.14. Removing the boardWe were quite surprised to find that the board was in excellent condition and had retained its flexibility -- no cracks in this beauty. This made it relatively easy to remove -- but two people definitely recommended.Raise the passenger’s seat up as far as possible and put the driver’s seat as far down as possible.Release the straps and lower the board.Get on your 3d glasses.Turn the board clockwise (looking down on the board) and raise the righthand edge. Move it as far forward as possible.Raise the driver’s seat all the way. 5 hands would help here.You now can drop the left side of the board down further.Slightly bow the board (particularly the back right corner to get it past the left C pillar) and drop the back left corner of the board into the rear foot well.The board can now be slid out through the rear left door – this is a 750iL after all.If you’ve been paying close attention you now know how to put it back in again.Once out of the car, remove the plastic pins holding the grab handles.15. Removing the old foamThe old liner should simply fall away from the board. Treat the old foam with respect. On Shogun’s car the foam turned to difficult-to-remove sludge if it was pushed or smeared. The best attack was to use a vacuum cleaner with the small corner nozzle. In most places, simply lightly dragging the nozzle across the board was enough to remove 99% of the foam. Stiff scrubbing brushes worked well in the recessed areas. To prep the surface it seems that steel wool pads with concentrated detergent worked best. The final surface was really smooth and tack-free.16. Fixing the new linerSince Shogun had carefully sized the new stock, we chose the easy way -- glue first and trim later. The 3M glue Shogun got can be used as regular direct glue or contact glue. We decided to proceed in strips using it as direct glue.With the board flat and the inside facing up, we laid the new liner out and folded the rear half back. Starting from roughly the center, we painted the board with glue in 15cm inch strips from side to side – no glue was put on the edges or backside of the board.One problem is that the glue was yellow, same color as the board. It helps to have another set of eyes checking for dry areas. We used the glue direct from the can without any thinner. That necessitated a stiff brush to get good adhesion and a thin even film. We put down a 50% film, you could see the board thru the glue but only just. The glue sets quickly and the 15cm strips seem to be good compromise. Once the glue is down, spread out the liner to cover. Luckily the glue sets quite quickly so in the cavities of the grab handles it is relatively easy to push the liner in, hold for 1 minute and it should stick. We did not tension the liner when we laid it down and found that there were no wrinkles at the corners (my worry). Warning: the rear corners are sharply curved and you’ll need care in using enough glue to ensure that the material wraps smoothly and sticks well.The overwraps we left till later. We then did the front half.Take a break because you’ll have worked up a sweat by now.It’s essential that you have sharp craft knife and a pair of sharp scissors. Take it from me, the material we used was damn tough to cut, probably yours will be the same. One point is that all devices that pass through the board really require the material to be cut out of the opening – except the rear blind holders. I tried to cheat by leaving the material in place but the stress seemed too much. My recommendation is to find each corner of the opening with your finger, use the craft knife to make a diagonal cut to the center, and then use the scissors to trim the sides and ends. WARNING: there is precious little room for error and it is very easy to cut the opening bigger than needed –trust me. Keep the liner flat and the scissors vertical as you cut and do not pull the material as it can stretch a lot. It’s better to be conservative and cut twice.For the small holes we used a small pointed soldering iron which melted the liner.One of the sun visor cavities was short of glue but when we cut out the center light opening it was possible to carefully pull the liner away and use a long thing stick to add more glue. Worked a treat.We then turned the board over and laid it against some chairs.Starting with the rear end, we cut the corner reliefs so that the cuts ended 5mm inch from the edge of the board. The idea is that when the liner is wrapped over, the ends of the cuts are slightly past the edge of the board. Cut the corner piece so it ends about 15mm from the edge of the board – the width of corner was 5 mm at the bottom. Put down a dab of glue and fold the corner piece down – hold until the glue sets. Shogun’s material is as tough as boot leather and there was no worry about the center piece breaking. We cut the rear liner to a width of 10 cm and folded it over after cutting out reliefs for the rear blind holders and the two rear clips.We then cut the material along the sides to a width of 15 mm and glued it down.The front edge work followed the rear.Refit the grab handles and hold with the plastic pins. This design is marginal as the pins fall out if treated roughly.17. Refitting the boardThe reverse of removal.Use the straps to hold the board up as working overhead is tiring and errors can happen.The trick here is to engage the center clips and then the rear clips. This means that the board starts towards the back by about 20 cm, the center clip holes are picked up, the slides forward past its final position by about 1cm, the back edge is held up and the board is slid backwards to engage the rear clips. Phew. 45 minutes of excitement in a few words.Warning: the center clips are not too strong and can be broken off if the board is pushed forward too strongly. Fitting is easier if you turn the car over on its roof – use a nice blanket to prevent paint damage.Feed the center interior light assembly through the hole so its hanging down again. Feed those wires for the sun visors, vanity lights, and remote control through the holes.Refit the grab handle mounting screws. 3 hands needed here as if a plastic pin pops out its real difficult to refit it.Refit the rear blind holders, and all the stuff at the front.Note: the hardest part seemed to be the sun visors and their end clips. It was very difficult to get the screws lined up and started. I’d recommend you buy a driver with a comfortable handle – it will give a lot more control over the screws. Using an awl to line things up first is really necessary.Refit the pillar casings and the door rubbers.You did remember to check that the bayonet clips were still in place above the B pillars before refitting the board, right?Congratulate yourself. Shogun is complaining that there is no sunroof -- what a joker!
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE  Shogun below E32:LAD specific Rebuild the LAD/steering pump:specific to the two-vane pump for cars with LAD English   Rebuild the LAD/steering pump  (jump to top) The problem was a slow leak from the front seal. We decided to replace all o-rings.here is the rebuild kit. The 2 c-clips and the 2 smallest o-rings are only for non-LAD models. The first section (from the back) is low pressure. 3 bolts and an o-ring.Remove the 4 bolts to open the next the second section,This is high pressure, 130 bar, and uses a special pump arrangement and seal.To remove the shaft we removed the 2 pressure pistons under the 2 cross-plugs. This is the tool we made to get them out. It is not essential to remove the pistons since they are spring-loaded and can be pushed back into thecase. Hopefully the plugs are not leaking!!We had the press the tool into the plugs to get them out.  The o-rings under the plugs were replaced.Next, we pushed the shaft out of the flangeRemoved the old seal and mounted the new oneThe shaft was reinserted and the flange was remountedThis shows the old seal being removed. The o-ring lies within the hard plastic form.New one is a direct replacement.The 2 regular o-rings were replaced and the sections were rebolted.  (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Johan&Sean here E32 specific: Replace dash capacitors:  Excellent write up -- good detail and good photos English Rickard  here E32 specific: Remove air bag & change cluster bulbs: Excellent write up -- good detail and good photos English  Shogun here E32: Replace blown resistor in speedometer: -- symptoms, write up and photos English Shogun  below E32: Recover dead pixels in MID in dash: multi information display between speedo/tacho English  Ivan below E32: Recover dead pixels in OBC: English Recover dead pixels in MID in dash Instructions for removal and cleaning of MID (multi information display center) (in the dash unit containing the speedometer and tachometer).       To restore pixels that are not working due to dirty connections. 1.Remove 2 screws above tach/speedo with a T10 torx driver. 2.Pry out upper lip of housing with a flat blade screwdriver. 3.Disconnect 3 wire harnesses in the back of the housing and slide assembly toward passenger side of vehicle. (Make sure steering wheel is down and telescoped fully) 4.Place assembly face down on some type of soft towel and find and remove the wire harness going from the speedo/tach assembly to the module attached to the back. (Black plug at the top of assembly). 5.Push button on the bottom of assembly and slide the module sideways to free it from the front assembly. 6.Locate the five “X” type connectors holding the front onto the main housing. Twist these connectors slightly so they line up with the holes on the housing. 7.Press the four clips (2 on top/2 on bottom) and slide the assembly out through the back of the assembly holding the front clear covering (that covers the faces of the gauges). 8.Now lay the tach/speedo assembly face up on the towel and remove all of the torx screws on the face (about 8-10), this will NOT allow you to open the housing, but it will loosen it enough so you can get a spray nozzle into the circuit board under the cover. 9.Spray any and all connections you with the contact cleaner (non-residue/quick drying/plastic safe). Quickly dry the connections with compressed air (be sure to hold can upright to prevent liquid from being expelled) 10.Spray all holes and connectors and the connectors that plug back into the dash board. Spray the actual connectors in the dash as well. 11.Reassemble the entire unit and make sure it is DRY before reinstalling in the vehicle. Recover dead pixels in OBC Required tools: Small flat head screwdriver (for pushing tabs, etc.) Small Phillips screwdriver (one that fits the little screws mentioned later in the post, I used a flat head for these screws btw.) Very thin 3M double sided tape (thinner is better because you will layer it) Optional: Some material as alternate for 3M tape, you will see what it needs to be later on in the post Needle nose pliers, or whatever they're called (for bulbs, but some use their hands so, up to you) On to the instructions 1. Take OBC out of your car. To do this, you have to push/pull the OBC from the bottom through a hole at the top of the sunglass holder. I find it easier to use a screwdriver (be careful not to scratch the trim) on the sides of the OBC to kinda prop it out, then I push it from the bottom and comes right out. Below is a pic of the OBC out of the car. 2. Next, remove the back cover from the OBC. The two photos below show the 4 tabs (2 on top 2 on bottom of the OBC) that you need to push in to remove the back cover. 3. Below is the back of the OBC with the cover off. OPTIONAL STEP, remove the bulbs from the OBC. I did this because when I did another OBC before, one of the bulbs didn't work, I guess since I shook it. I suggest removing them, but it's completely up to you. 4. Remove the display panel along with the circuit board. The two photos below show the 2 tabs (one on each side) that hold the panel and circuit board in place inside the cover. Just push the tab on one side, hold the circuit board back (be careful not to crush anything on the circuit board), then push in the tab on the other side, and wiggle out the circuit board along with the panel. Be very careful when you do this, it will come out, just do it slowly. 5. Here's the display panel and circuit board out of the cover. 6. Next you will remove the cover that is over the display panel. To do this, you have to "unhook" 9 tabs, 4 are on top, 3 on bottom and 2 on the sides (one on each side). The photos below show these tabs. 7. One the cover is off, you will see this. The display panel (glass or plastic I'm not sure, didn't care to check) is held to the white part by a "connector strip" (sorry but I have no clue what that's called) be very careful not to peel the strip off of either the glass panel or the white plastic, if you do, you'll have a lot of fun trying to put it back together, NOT. Just make sure you keep that strip intact, my suggestion is, after removing the orange strip and after bending the white plastic away from the circuit board(you'll see later what I'm talking about here) just set the panel onto the circuit board so that it is hanging between the circuit board and the white plastic where you're working,(again you'll see what I'm talking about in photos later on) 8. This is the orange strip I was talking about. Remember the orientation of it (orange part faces out of the OBC, back/whitish part is facing in) Set this aside for now. Next you need to bend the white plastic back, away from the circuit board. (it's optional and really not necessary but you can also remove the white little plastic pieces that are behind the orange piece. They didn't bother be since they never got in the way. Sometimes they fall out sometimes they don't. this is up to you) OK, 1st photo below shows the white little plastic pieces still in the white plastic cover and also I've drawn the direction in which you will be moving the white plastic. 2nd photo shows the 2 little "brackets"(I will refer to it this way since I don't know what else to call it, sorry) that need to be removed in order for you to be able to bend the white plastic back. 3rd photo shows one of the "brackets" removed partially, and rotated. You will need to remove them completely and set aside. 4th photo shows, in blue, the little screws that hold those grey "brackets". You just remove these screws, turn circuit board over, and slide out the "brackets". 4th, in red, 5th, and 6th photos show the tabs you will need to push in order to separate the white plastic from the circuit board. These are a bit tricky. I marked them 1 and 2 for the following reasons,on side 1, it is easier to push the tab and pull out the corner of the circuit board. Next you just pull the circuit board up holding at that corner until it clears the tab in the middle. Then, still holding corner 1, you pull away from corner 2 in order to clear the little tab (as you can see in the 4th and 5th photos, corner 2 has a cutout on the circuit board, so instead of having to pull the tab to the side and pull the circuit board up, you just do as I said, do the hard work on the easier corner 1, then just pull out corner 2. I really really hope all this made sense.) 7th photo shows two metal pieces that are attached to the plastic and soldered to the circuit board. When you bend the white plastic back, these are the pieces that are bending. Be careful to only bend it once back and once back down when you're done, since you don't want to go back and forth and break the thing off. If your OBC is very old, you might want to have a soldering iron ready in case this does break) Finally, 8th photo shows the white plastic bent back. Circled in red is the area you will be working with. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Now, the fun part. The whole idea in this fix is to either replace the existing "cushion" with a new one, or make the existing one thicker. The reason for this is that the "cushion" pushes the "connector strip" to the connectors on the white plastic, and this is how pixels are transmitted from the computer to the display panel. Over time, the "connector strip" looses it's grip at some points, thus no pixels showing when you hit the TEMP button. Anyway, I've posted 4 photos of the work that needs to be done and will refer to them as 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th when writing instructions, I'm sorry I didn't take a photo of the old "cushion", which you can see in the 2nd photo (I cut it in pieces while removing it) The 1st photo shows the 3M tape put in place of the old "cushion". The tape is 2 strips taped to each other than taped to the white plastic. You will easily locate where to put the new "cushion" since there are 2 plastic strips, on big one small, running along the edge, as you see in my little diagrams in the 3rd and 4th photos. THE "CUSHION" THAT'S TO THE OUTSIDE OF THE OBC DOESN'T MATTER SO DON'T MESS WITH IT, UNLESS YOU'RE REALLY BORED. (As I said earlier, if your tape is thin enough, you can simply put a strip of tape onto the existing "cushion" and get the same effect. You will see in the diagrams in the photos that the existing cushions are shorter than the big plastic tab that runs the whole way on the edge. The "connector strip" is at the level of the plastic tab, so ideally you want a cushion just a tiny, tiny bit higher than that plastic tab. If it's too high, it's bad because the circuit board will bow out since it's much tighter at the corners, and you'll probably loose even more pixels. Mine was a bit higher, and when I first connected the OBC to the car, the pixels in the middle were a little bad, but once I put it in it's place, the middle was held together by the molding and everything worked out great, as you will see in the final photos) The photos might be a bit confusing since I couldn't get a clear shot up close, but you'll understand everything once you actually look at your OBC. 1 2 3 4 Well, You're done!!! Once you put the new "cushion" in or "mod" your old one, just make sure it's not higher than that tab like I said and you're good to go. Put everything back together opposite of what you did to take it apart. Bend back the white plastic and clip the circuit board into it. Reconnect the grey "brackets" Put white plastic pieces back in (if you took them out) Put orange piece back in the right way Fold back the display panel Put the little cover over the display panel back Put the bulbs back Stick the circuit board and display panel back into the plastic cover Put the back cover on or go to the button DIY if you need to 10. Finally, enjoy your "new" OBC, with all the pixels. One additional step. I removed the metal strips (the light contacts) from the back of the white plastic piece. With a small screwdrive I carefully lifted the metal strips off each of the white plastic nibs, then bent the metal strips out of the way. This made it really easy to separate the white plastic from the circuit board.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE E31 forum here E31 : E32 M70 specific Strip top of engine for intake gasket fix : great write up --with lots of photos for M70 this is good  big PDF file English E31 forum  here E31 : E32 M70 specific Recondition throttle assemblies (DKs) :for M70  PDF file English  Shogun below E32:M70 specific Poor condition of DK units -- photo examples English Shogun  below E32: Replacement for intake charge pipe: English Poor condition of DK units  (jump to top)left side brush [1]  is stuck and so is not making contactreally bad crud has built up on the armatureReplacement for intake charge pipe:  (jump to top)Shogun's 750 finally started to show her age. The original pipes from the radiator air intake to the air filter started to fall apart.This repair was very satisfying since the total cost was just 5-6$ total.We fashioned a fair replacement by using corrugated Alumimum ducting for A/C systemsCareful crimping yielded a good connectionThe overall appearance is good.Easy to install. Do not worry about heat soak. The intake manifolds get really hot by themselves! (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32: LAD adjustment : write up --with photos Eng/Ger Byran Borough  here E32: LAD adjustment : many many photos -- very clean rear axle!  Roland Gehring below E32: Replace seal on LAD (rear) shocks - some machining but doable!! Eng Shogun below E32: Replace bump stop and dust boots: 2009/04/17 Eng LAD AdjustmentTips und Tricks zur NiveauregulierungWoran erkenne ich, dass dieselbige eingebaut ist?Die Niveauregulierung erkennt man daran, dass an der Hinterachse Druckspeicher (sh. Bild) verbaut sind welche das Öl für die Stossdämpfer beinhalten.Wie kann ich die Niveauregulierung neu einstellen?Am Stabi der Hinterachse gibt es einen kleinen Regler (sh. Bild),der das Spiel der Niveauregulierung steuert. Wenn das Heck nach hinten geht, verändert sich die Stellung dieses Metallstücks und es wird Öl in die Dämpfer oder aus den Dämpfern gepumpt, das Heck hebt sich oder senkt sich, bis der Regler wieder in der Ausgangsstellung ist.Das bedeutet für uns, dass wir durch verändern der Stellung dieses Reglers das Heck liften oder senken können.Am einfachsten ist es, wir fahren über eine Grube, und lösen die zwei Schrauben leicht. Dann starten wir den Motor, da die Regulierung nur bei laufendem Motor funktioniert. Und jetzt wie gewünscht den Regler leicht nach vorne oder nach hinten drücken um das Heck zu heben, oder zu senken. Dabei nicht übertreiben und den Regler nur langsam bewegen, da die Niveauregulierung äusserst schnell reagiert. Hat man nun die Stellung, die man sich wünscht erreicht, kann man den Regler wieder festschrauben.Allerdings muss ich darauf hinweisen, dass ein Höherlegen des Hecks eine Veränderung des Fahrverhaltens nach sich ziehen kann, daher bitte nicht übertreiben und lieber zweimal einstellen.Niveauregulierung ausbauen?Wer statt der Niveauregulierung z.B. ein Gewindefahrwerk einbaun will, der kommt nicht drumherum die Niveauregulierung auszubauen. Ich kann allerdings nur vom Hörensagen erzählen, wie es in etwa funktioniert, da bei mir die Niveauregulierung noch eingebaut ist.- Ölkreislauf der Servolenkung und Niveauregulierung öffnen und Öl ablassen.- Dämpfer abschrauben und die Löcher am Druckspeicher verschliessen (Radmutter).- Servopumpe tauschen (sonst ist der Öldruck zu hoch).- Und natürlich wieder Öl einfüllen Suspension WarningIt is the control rod for your suspension leveling regulator valve. The valve controls the flow of fluid to the struts. As the stabilizer bar moves, it moves the control rod which in turn moves the arm on the regulator valve which then either lets fluid into the lines to the strut, or lets fluid out of the strut. Once the regulator arm comes back to the home position, fluid bypasses back to the reservoir.You most likely get the error message because the regulator is out of adjustment. This means that you would have to adjust it. To do this, you really need to have the car up on a lift, with the weight of the car on the tires. You then need to load the trunk with 440lbs of stuff and then check the height of the fender above the bottom of the wheel. If the height is not correct, then you need to disconnect the control rod from the regulator and move the valve either front or back to get the desired height. Move the arm forward to raise the car, aft to lower it. Once the ride height is correct, you put a pin through the regulator body and the arm, this holds it in place in the bypass (no movement) position. Then reattach the control arm. You may need to make an adjustment to the clamp that holds the control arm to the stabilizer bar so that it fits properly into the regulator.A poor man's way of doing this is to cheat a bit. Measure the car height (information in the Bentley on how height it should be) and then get under the car and disconnect the control arm from the stabilizer bar. Move the bar in the direction necessary and then re-clamp it. Start the car and check the height. If it is right (or close enough) then you are done, if not, try it again.----------------------------------------the best way to adjust the ride height in the rear is to back the car onto ramps..also the safest.Loosen both 10mm nuts on the U-bolt on the stabilizer bar. Start the car...raise and lower the car to find the ride height you like by traversing the rod fore and aft..then tighten the U-bolt. Will take some trial an error. The good news is the LAD cannot tell if the car is on level ground...by design...so having the car on ramps will not affect the relationship of the body relative to the suspension...what you want during the adjustment process...the key being the distance from the lower lip of the road wheel to the top of the fender opening.Congrats...your journey has almost ended.LAD is a wonderful rear suspension.----------------------------------------------Re: Rear Self Level Adjustments.I used a 10-mm wrench under the car to adjust the clamp; a couple of turns is enough to loosen the clamp. Mark a point on the clamp to the stabilizer bar as reference. The clamp only needs to be shifted 1 mm away from the reference to see a couple of inches difference in ride height.I jacked up the car in my garage to perform this adjustment iteration, in between driving the car around the block so the rear tires regain their correct camber angle. When the car is lowered, the rear tires are jammed in a wrong camber angle so the ride height measurement is wrong.Also, despite multiple reading I never get the idea of what Bentley tried to tell me about making adjustment with control arm in neutral position and using a rod to keep it at that position, etc. Down under the car the LAD valve is positioned so high up I couldn't see it well and could hardly reach it with my arm. BMW 735i LAD suspension leak.  (jump to top)When my right rear shock left an oil puddle on the garage floor, I found out what new ones cost. Apparently they are not repairable. The price of one shock is equal to the market value of the whole car.Alternative is to convert to normal shocks, but also not cheap, as softer springs are needed.So I decided to look into, to repair them myself. I did get all the information I could get and was trying to get another old set to experiment on.When the left one also started leaking, I jacked up the car and took one of mine out to open up and see, what was the best way, to seal the shock absorber rod, where the oil was escaping from.There is a light blue seal backed by an O-ring. The wiper seal would not be so important to replace, the O-ring was no problem, I did have identical ones in my assortment box. This light blue seal could be made out of  PTFE and I did not know where to get this one,  If  I could give this seal more pressure that would do the trick. So in my box I selected another slightly bigger O- ring in section, but not to be too tight -- I would have to machine something out of the retainer. That’s what I did on both shocks, I also had to replace the two accumulators which I bought from Febi, also the hydraulic fluid, Type M6162. at half the cost of BMW prices.The car is on the road again and so far no leak and a much softer ride because the diaphragm of the accumulators has ruptured, the hydrogen had escaped so the accumulator was full of hydraulic fluid. The total mileage is  285 000 Km, I have the car already for16 years and will now drive it for many more years.Many thanks to Erich (Schogun)  he was very helpful and when I had  a Question in the evening, I had an answer next morning from Japan.The new O-ring I have used is OD 25 mm x 3.0 mm, the old one was 2.6mm in section.I modified the retainer from 24.50 mm to 25.00 mm in diameter, depth unchanged at 3.20 mm. That gave me 0.80 - 0.50 = 0.30 mm more pressure, it cannot be made any tighter, because the seal O-ring assembly won’t fit.I hope this will help same other BMW owners to do the same, if they have this problem.Regards Roland Gehring1988 750iL replace rear bump stop and dust boots.   (jump to top)Shogun was being bothered by an intermittant knock from the rear suspension. Since the bump stops had never been replaced we decided to spend a great spring day doing an easy task. April 18, 2009Time taken: 3.5 hoursTools: regular hand tools, 14 mm flare wrench, spring compressorsManpower: 2.5 guys -- Shogun, Akira, and Hairy -- lots of breaks were takenStart by removing the back seat squabs. Shogun has electric rear seats so each squabs are mounted on two hinges secured to the rear bulkhead by two 10mm bolts.We found that we had enough clearance that once the squabs were removed,  all three 13 mm nuts and the spring retaining nut 19mm, on top of the shock rod could be accessed. First, pull the L/R head rest assemblies out.Remove the 10 mm nut holding the center seat fill cushion and remove the cushion.Remove the plastic trim pieces around the head rests -- on Shoguns car there were two phillips screws on the inner end. The outer end has a plastic clip --- you need to push the outer end of the trim piece down and then lift the plastic tongue inwards to release it.Pull the seat belt out and slide the trimpiece down the belto that ti is not in the way.Remove the two 10mm bolts holding the seat back.Drive the seat bottoms foward and remove the bottoms to release the squab,Drop the squabs foward to gain access the the top of the shock.Remove the stiff rubber cap and then the soft rubber cap.Secure the car, jack the rear end up and place on jack stands. Remove the rear wheels. Clean all areas around the high pressure nut into the lower body of the shock. Remove the 14 mm nut and catch what ever Pentosin leaks out.Wrap the end of the high pressure line and seal off the connection point on the shock body -- make sure no dirt gets in the system.Remove the 22 bolt holding the lower end of the shock to the hub.Put a small jack under the hub and raise the hub slightly.Remove the three 13 mm nuts holding the top of the shock body to the mounting plate inside the car.Slowly lower the jack while supporting the shock and then remove the jack.Push the lower end of the shock inwards until the mounting tube clears the hub.Lower the shock and remove from under the car.Put the spring compressors on and compress the spring.Remove the 22 retaining nut while holding the top of the shock rod with an 8mm open wrench.Remove the steel plate and the top spring bearing cup with rubber pad -- mark the cup to ensure that it goes back on the same way.Remove the compressed spring.old versus newClean the shock rod and check carefully for scoring or pitting.Reassemble and reinstall.Start the engine and check the level of Pentosin. Top up if necessary.Shock from the other side
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE louv here M5 2000 Dismantling and cleaning MAF : write up --with photos -- MAF differs from E32 type English    
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Resolder and fix the infamous mustard relay (for LKM-L) : write up --with photosfor LKM-B type  English     Resolder and fix the mustard relay (Type  SKM printed on the case) (jump to top) All E32's using the LKM-B are likely to suffer intermittent/continuous failures of side parking lights or rear tail lights.The problem is that the relay's design leads to cracks in the solder and/or failure of the mechanical contacts in the mustard relay.Here is the location of the relayRemove the relay by simply pulling it straight upthe photos below showTop left: opening the caseTop right: location of solder cracksBottom left: top view of the relaysBottom right: we found that even after resoldering the failed joints one relay was still not working well.The problem was that the relay points were not fully touching when the relay was activated. We simply bent the relay arm slightly to put more pressure on the contacts and cleaned the contact surfaces with fine emery paper.Note: BMW charges some 57$ for a new relay but Audi VW part number 447959875 (electric window control by Hella)is cheaper and is a direct fit!The empty mustard relay (Type KSS  -- shown on the case below) -- if you have the LKM-B modelThe LKM-B contains the relay functions for the park and tail lights so the mustard relay is basically just a set a direct bridges as shown below
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE ??  here E32: 735 Low oil pressure fix: 735 oil cannister ??
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE ?? here 1985 BMW635Csi Electronic Troubleshooting Manual Online ??  Fongman here Fongman's repair tips for E23/24/24M6/34/(also valid for32):  
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE jimmybones here E32: Reentering radio security code : write up -- with photos  English    
OWNER LINK MODEL DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32: general rear window defrosts slowly : write up -- with photos  English     Rear window defroster repair The upper 3 lines on the glass are the AM radio antenna, the middle 8 are FM and defroster, and the bottom 8 are defrost , if the middle 8 or bottom 8 have a break in the lines it will make defrosting very slow. You can buy repair kits that consist of a small bottle of metallic foil paint. You use masking tape to mask off each side of the line where a break is and paint a thin line to reconnect it.  I used it before to repair defrost elements and broken fm antennas. Rear window defogger repair kit NOTE: may not be broken line, check the fuse, relay and connectors Check fuse 35 in the rear power distribution box under the rear seat and check the defogger relay k13 under the rear lefthandseat seat.
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Rickard  here E34 : Seat switch repairs: Excellent write up -- good detail and good photos English Winfred  here E32/E34: Twisted seat back: Shortening the drive cables -- good write up and photos English    
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Commercial here general: Ein kleiner Kurs der Firma KEMO- Electronic um Ihnen das Arbeiten mit den Bausätzen zu erleichtern. German  Commercial here general Lötkurs - Kurzform German  Commercial here general Basic soldering guide English    
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Mark 750iL below E32 M70 specific Detailed write up : no photos English rv8flyboy  here E32: Great photos of an old bendix and some repairs English rvbflyboyhereE32:Remove/replace bendix without removing the starter: with photosEnglishShogunbelowE32:Disassembly of 1988 750 starter motor: 21 photos - no textEnglish Replace starter motor  (jump to top) check this photo to get an idea of the problems you have -- the exhausts and the  heat shields!!1. Don't read Bentley, then tell your wife that "it looks pretty straightforward, maybe 4 hours."2. Make sure you have all the tools known to man, especially mirror, flashlights, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 socket sets with extensions.3. Just because you see the nut/bolt, doesn't mean you can get to it.4. Just because you CAN'T see the nut/bolt, doesn't mean that you CAN'T get to it.5. Read the Bentley manual, then use it to prop up your beer; it IS good for that at this point.6. Brown Jersey gloves. Perhaps my admission of this will absolve some of the razzing/chiding I gave my father all those years!! (now I understand why he always used them, and now I do myself! Thanks Dad.)7. This job would be much easier / quicker with TWO people. One above, one below. Otherwise you'll wear yourself out getting up/down, scooting under the car, etcetcetc......(even if its a 10 year old kid,)8. Remove: washer tank, right airbox, carbon canister, (disconnect only the larger hose on aft end, move forward)9. Disconnect muffler from BOTH sides of exhaust. (this one is VERY important when reassembling)10.Remove right side catalytic converter, (not necessary to remove O2 sensor, although if car is up high, then you must remove it (I left my cat lying on the garage floor! )) remove heatshield below exhaust downpipes.11. Remove both exhaust downpipes, front one will come out the lower/back first, then the back one, out same place.12. Remove heatshield from starter; then remove positive lead and solenoid control lead.13. Now the fun starts: remove the two starter mounting bolts. A thin wall 16mm socket is needed. A 5/8 sparkplug socket ground down will work, if you don't want to sacrifice a good 16 mm socket for the job.14. Installation is reverse of removal. with these following notes:15. When installing the exhaust, leave the downpipes loose until the catalytic converter is in and tight. This is imperative, as the pipe-to-pipe flange connection is tight, and there is NO ROOM for error. Then the downpipe connections to the exhaust manifold can be tightened. Bentley says to compress spring, back off 1 1/2 turns.16.The tops of the two inner boltheads for the downpipes can be seen with a mirror, between the manifold and the plugwire - heatshield. Mirrors are a must for this job.One other note: the use of Beryllium copper nuts (or whatever they are) for the exhaust is wonderful. Can you imagine being able to remove (and reuse!!) 15 year old exhaust nuts on a Detroit-built car??I hope this helps to simplify the process for somebody else. It was a tortuous job, especially since I was doing it lying on my back on a cold garage floor. If a creeper is available, make sure you use it; jack the car up high enough for access. Make sure the car is supported extremely well on jackstands. And note that you'll still need access to the top side of the engine.The new starter has a much different sound than the original....it is more 'turbine' sounding than the original. The original really sounded like the old Chrysler starters, this one is much smoother. It is a rebuilt Bosch from Advance Auto Parts, $140. The problem with the original one was that the outer shaft that the 'Bendix' slides on was rusty and corroded, and must have been preventing the full / quick retraction from the flywheel, which resulted in the unusual sound of the starter being driven BY the engine, once it started, and until the Bendix disengaged.Any questions, let me know. If anybody wants to copy and paste this to their site, please do so. Sorry I don't have pix of the process.....Author: Mark750iL on 2004-04-12 Disassembly of 1988 E32 starter motor  (jump to top)This is from the old 1988 parts 750The plastic carrier has failed - -all the plastic parts are cracked to some extentBosch # 0001218027, produced 08/1988Planetary gear up to date number 12411736763 , old one 12411736760,Part use:  E30 , E28 , E32 Modell (Motor) 750iL (M70), 7' E38, 750iL (M73) 750iL (M73N) E31  (jump to top)
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE DavidC here E32 : Replace key barrel in steering column -- retain original key :  -- great writeup with photos English Yuriy  below E32: Steering has become heavy at low speeds: servotronic unit has failed? English   Steering remains heavy at low speeds - servotronic repair From Yuriy: About 3 months ago, my servotronic started to fail: intermittent shutoffs and then I was stuck with minimum assist until yesterday. Reflowing the solder, as was expected, didn't do any good, so I decided to work on the circuit itself. Sure enough, after desoldering the two transistors, Emitter-Collector link in both of them either had a ~5MOhm resistance or even was positive on the diode test. In other words, both were BLOWN, BURNED, BUSTED! I've managed to get the P/N from them and ordered replacements from digi-key.com. Soldered them in and VOILA! :))• George Mann used an 18 ohm fixed resistor (wire wound high capacity type) to bypass his servotronic -- 18 ohms gave him reasonable balance between highway and city driving feel.Part #'s shown in the photo  -- but check your unit before repairing it
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Replace beer cans:  English     Replace the beer cans   (jump to the top)If your rear end of your car feels like it wants to dance around when you want to go straight then it is possible that your beer cans are shot.BMW was one of the first to mount the suspension to a steel subframe that was attached to the body by specially designed/tuned rubber components.Good condition beer cans are critical to achieving the original BMW handling feel.Not difficult to replace and will take only 2 hours - if you have a good puller/installer system!17mm and 13mm sockets are needed, as well as a heavy hammer.1. move the rear seats forward as far as possible or remove - all that is needed is access the body in the region of the seat belt mounting bolt. Breakthe black tar/plastic type plug covering the retaining bolt -- not replaceable and not necessary -- it is only there to stop dirt etc. from falling into the mounting socket.2. jack up the rear of the car and remove both rear wheels. Do this work on level ground and use jack stands to support the car.3. remove the two 13mm bolts and the 17mm nut from the bear can retaining plate (part #5 below)4. Use the hammer to drive the retaining pin up and out of its mounting socket in the body. This pin has splines just under its head and can be difficult to shift.We sprayed the head from inside the car with thread release but it was still tough.5. We had a Shogun special tool, the beer can puller deluxe! The photo below shows the tool in the removal configuration.The emergency method is to cut/break the rubber parts out of the old beer can and then use a saws-all to cut the steel barrel -- not recommended.6. Install the new beer can - there are two dimples in the subframe and these must match the two grooves in the beer can. We sprayed the outside with silicon lube tomake installation easier.7. Reinstall retaining plates etc. Now go and enjoy the new car handling!
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Maun(Norman) below E32 :740 Replacing Bowden Cable for the ACS: write up --for '93  740i English     Replacing Bowden Cable for the ACS  (jump to top) Procedure: Remove left headlight assembly. Remove Throttle Actuator ADS2 (3541163163) using 10mm socket and take apart its bottom (held together by clips on the body) to access the area for the Bowden cable end to installed. The end of my old cable broke off inside the Throttle Actuator ADS2 (3541163163).(Part 17 / 16 here) Thread lower part of the Bowden cable (35411160944) near the headlight area before installing the Throttle Actuator ADS2. Install the other end piece of the Bowden cable into the Throttle Valve Switch area.Many thanks Norman!
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Maun(Norman) below E32 :740 Replacing Bowden Cable for the ACS: write up --for '93  740i English     Replacing Bowden Cable for the ACS  (jump to top) Procedure: Remove left headlight assembly. Remove Throttle Actuator ADS2 (3541163163) using 10mm socket and take apart its bottom (held together by clips on the body) to access the area for the Bowden cable end to installed. The end of my old cable broke off inside the Throttle Actuator ADS2 (3541163163).(Part 17 / 16 here) Thread lower part of the Bowden cable (35411160944) near the headlight area before installing the Throttle Actuator ADS2. Install the other end piece of the Bowden cable into the Throttle Valve Switch area.Many thanks Norman!
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun here E32: Repair broken defrost conductors: English    
OWNER LINK Model DESCRIPTION LANGUAGE Shogun below E32 : Wiper :  --with photos English        --- text is below photosDiscussion  (jump to top)This damn irritating feature ( loud screech every time I move off after starting up, when washers used and again when turn engine off )is driving me nuts, today ive spent ages trying to stop this by dribbling oil down the pushrod that comes thru the drivers wiper spindle to no avail, it seems to have a seal around it obviously to stop stuff getting in.Removed the wiper and the trim below the screen but that affords no more accsess to the motor and gearbox or whatever mechanism it is, tried to pull the pushrod out but it only lifts about 5mm then comes to a definate stop!Think I am going to try and get a syringe with the needle still on and try shoving it between pushrod and seal and inject some oil in to it, wot you reckon?These pictures might help...The complete assembly:With the main part of the wiper console removed:With the connecting (pivoting) arm removed, leaving the rod that moves up and down:The motor. The round black disc doesn't turn. Underneath it is the gearing that pushes the rod up and down (the brass bit is the bit that moves):If you've already lubricated the rod that moves inside the shaft of the connecting arm, then the only other part that could (in my opinion) make a noise is the gearing under the black disc. It might be worth spraying a lot of WD40 around the edges of the black disc (and hope it penetrates around the edges...) to see if that helps.Cheers for those photos they at least show me whats what, like you say its the gearing thats probably making the row, i must have put half a can of Douck oil all over the thing but as yet its not done owt, will still try the syringe when i get one from somewhere.Are these bits from your car?If they are can you detail whats involved in removing the offending motor and drive from the car and i,ll get the lot out and strip the thing and fix it once and for all!If that fails i assume the power leads are seen coming out the back of the motor itself, SNIP now make a noise! ( that will be last resort! )The wiper console is removed after first removing the blower motor via the bulkhead behind/below the coolant expansion tank. The total job takes between 2 - 4 hours. I don't have a scanner, but I can fax you the relevant pages from the bentley if would like them. Yes, the parts are from my car, I installed a replacement and kept the old one for spares.try again to get some lube in without stripping it ive even thought of trying to drill a small hole in the top of the gearbox cover in situ and oiling it that way and then bunging the hole up again, do you fancy taking that cover off to see whats under it and photoing it?Thanks for your efforts already, much appreciated.I tried to take the cover off but found it seemed to be held down by something inside (other the screws), and since it's still working I didn't want to break it. However, for the 'sake of science', I'll have another go tomorrow evening. I'll let you know...I still can't remove the black disc, but the motor can be and it's possible to peer inside:Inside is a large cog, which I presume is threaded in some way so that as it turns it slowly moves up or down:You don't need to drill through the top of the black disc, there is a screw at the back which gives direct access to the innards, new grease can be applied quite easily (once it's out of the car...)What a shame that screw isnt acessible in situ, it would save a lot of hassle, sill wondering about making a hole in the top to save work, i dont fancy having to remove the expansion tank and blower motor?Mind you, you had to if your wipers themselves were on the blink. Id've only a noise to put up with, everything else is ok, touch wood! ( ps i did eventually replace the wiper stalk, some bas"""d had glued the end thats why it wouldnt pull off no matter how much i tried, mashing it in the process!)Really wish i had a manual at times like these.A couple of thoughts have occurred to me. I'm guessing - but I think the large internal cog will have a hollowed out centre, which will be threaded, and screwed into this will be the rod that sticks out of the black disc (with the brass end). When the motor turns the cog, the rod (which will be fixed so that it doesn't turn) will screw up or down the thread. So the key moving parts are:* The motor auger and the large cog* The threaded rod moving inside the thread of the cog* The rod moving up and down.I think the internal thread will be the point of the most contact, it will have to be quite strong to withstand the force pushing down from the spring of the wiper. The grease on the cog and auger still looks quite fresh on mine, which may show that there isn't much 'happening' between the two.The reason why applying a lot of lubricant to the rod, at the wiper end, may quite often be successful (for some people) could be that the lubricant makes it's way down the rod, through the gap between the rod and the hole in the centre of the black disk, and penetrates the thread.With these thoughts in mind, if I had this problem I think I would still try to apply a lot of lubricant directly to the centre of the black disc, then manually apply 12v to the motor to move the rod up and down to help the lubricant penetrate the thread. Through the cover at the base of the windscreen there are 2 accessible electrical connectors, one of which I think must be for this motor (the other for the windscreen wiper motor), and I've tried applying a voltage to mine and it works, even with just 6v.As jobs go, the one removing the wiper console is actually quite a pleasant one. The only problem I have is with the motor blower housing, it is in two halves and I always struggle trying to get the two halves to meet properly (it normally takes me around 20mins with a lot fiddling and cursing.) Also, if you're going to take the console out then it's a good time to lubricate the wiper linkages, and a washer can be added if the wipers are hitting the bonnet.As usual, please note that I'm just thinking out loud (as if the problem was on my car), please be cautious before acting on anything I've said. I would hate you to waste a lot of time on this only to find out that what I've said hasn't helped (or is blatantly incorrect)I have this problem, pull fuse 22 and everything else will work fine but the pressure motor will be off and hence no noise, better than snipping the wire as you can always easily replace the fuse later if you fix the motor.Having seen the pics posted here I will take a second look at the motor on mine.I discovered this while having a nosey in the fuse box pretty soon after getting the car, there is a sticker on the inside of the cover saying what fuse is what and I noticed that fuse 22 was missing. So I dutifully replaced it only to get a god awful grinding noise from the front of the dash just after pulling off and using the wipers (frightened the bloody life out of me I can tell you). The sticker says fuse 22 is the Wiper Pressure Motor, nothing else, and without it I have wipers and wash as normal and everything else works so not really worried about the pressure motor. If you can't see it then maybe mines got a different fuse box layout. What year is yours? I'll have another look after work and count them in from the end and let you know.Had another look and yes fuse 22..... pressure control ADV...AND...headlight washers!Mines an 89 735i SE, yours must have washers on the lights, are they working? or is yours different?It don't say nuffin about headlight washers in the fuse box but I do have them. The book says they activate every third time the screen wash is used so will have to test this. Last time I pressed the screen wash while standing next the drivers door the screen wasn't the only thing that got washed. Better put the waterproofs on(jump to top)
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language ABS warning light flickers:  E32: below English     ABS warning light flickers:  (jump to top)Full HTML page is hereABS, ASC, AND ASC+T MALFUNCTION MODELS AFFECTED: All models equipped with ABS,ASC OR ASC+TFAULT: Any of the ABS ASC and ASC+T systems inoperative, intermittently inoperative, or illuminating the warning lamp.CAUSE: All BMW'S with slip control systems use 4 wheel speed sensors which monitor each wheels speed of rotation with a high accuracy. The system control unit uses this information to calculate a vehicle speed. In this way it detects wheel speed variation. If the inputs vary from each other by a certain amount, the control unit is not able to do the calculation reliably (plausibility fault) and takes its self off-line as a safety precaution(fail-safe).This can be because the wheels and tires are non-approved partsand therefore do not agree with the system.SOLUTION: First make sure the wires to the sensors on the wheel hubs are in good condition and the plugs are securely in position.If the sensor teeth on a hub are badly rusted the sensor may not catch the signal reliably.Make sure the vehicle is fitted with BMW approved wheels and tires. Then do further diagnostic testing to check if fault is resolved. ABS WARNING LIGHT COMES ONMODELS AFFECTED: All with ABSFAULT: ABS warning light comes on intermittently. Normal troubleshooting procedures find no defect.CAUSE: If cars have recently had two new tires, or snow tires put on. Sometimes when the car is driven over 50 MPH.SOLUTION: Check all four tires on the car, make sure they are the same brand, style, and size. Check if any of the new tires have substantially more tread than the rest. These differences may cause enough variance in rolling diameters to confuse the ABS control unit, which intern gives a false signal to the ABS warning light.ABS WARNING LIGHT GLOWSMODELS AFFECTED: 3 series (E 36)-vehicles produced 1/96 to 3/96 without ASC.FAULT: On rare instances the ABS warning may glow slightly after other electrical consumers have been switched on. No fault is stored in the ABS control module fault memory.CAUSE: Hardware fault in the ABS control module.SOLUTION: If this is encountered replace the ABS control module.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Basic problem with pin corrosion:  E32: CCM English Hazard lights come on intermittently while driving: E32: below English BMW Service bulletins: operation / faults are intermittent many below English Basic problem - dirty pins (jump to top) Stabilant 22A Electrical Contact EnhancerModel: All BMWComplaint:Connectors which carry low current are more likely to form deposits which affect the resistance of the circuit through the plug connector. Depending upon the particular circuit these deposits can cause malfunctions and consequently activate warning lamps and check control indicators.Remedy:Part replacement can temporarily stop the problem.If the connector is the problem then without disconnecting the connector measure the resistance of the circuit running through the connector to make sure the connector has a high resistance. A good resistor will have close to 0 ohms resistance.Visually examine the male and female terminals in the connector housing by removing them. Look at the integrity of the wire crimps, and in some male terminals the integrity of the weld of the male pin to the terminal. Then reinstall.With a zero residue electrical contact cleaner liberally spray the male and female connectors, and allow the air to dry.Apply Stabilant 22A to both male and female terminals so they are saturated, and reconnect the connectors while they are still wet. When the Stabilant 22A dries it will leave a thin coating of polymer film which is conductive between mating surfaces, and is non-conductive between adjacent pins. It can also prevent the formation of more harmful deposits.  Hazard lights come on intermittently (jump to top)2 years ago I had the problem that the hazards came on while driving. That bothered me a long time. I cleaned the hazard light switch, checked the crash module etc. Finally it turned out to be the crash control relay/module in the fuse box, that small brown relay right of the CCM (check the wiring diagram for your year and model!!). You can try to resolder it, but I just replaced it. You can also try to drive without that relay, but note that in case of a crash the doorlocks will not open automatically, the courtesy lights will not go on automatically, and the fuel pump(s) will not be automatically stopped.BMW service bulletins - electrical problems  (jump to top)Others:Voluntary Emissions Recall Campaign No. 99E-A01Model:E36 – BMW 323i and BMW 328i with M52 engine produced June 1995 - December 1998E36-BMW M3 with S52 engine produced January 1996 – December 1998E39-BMW 528i with M52 engine produced March 1996 –August 1998BMW Z3-with M52 engine produced July 1996 – September 1998BMW Z3-with S52 engine produced January 1998 – January 1999Complaint:Vehicles that have a faulty crankshaft position sensor have had a Voluntary Emission-Recall Campaign. This is to check the illumination of the check engine lamp as well as fault code 83 – Crankshaft position sensor, and fault code 244 – Crankshaft segment timing.Remedy:The crankshaft position sensor should be replaced with the same sensor used on a M52TU engine. An adaptor harness must also be installed so that it has a 12V operating voltage instead of the 5 volts currently supplied by the DME.Quality Monitoring M44/M62 Camshaft SensorModel:E36 – BMW 318i/A/ti with M44 engine produced February 1996 to February 1997E39 – BMW 540i/iA with M62 engine produced February 1996 to February 1997E38 – BMW 740i/iA/iL with M62 engine produced February 1996 to February 1997BMW Z3 – with M44 engine produced February 1996 to February 1997Complaint:The above listed models need to replaced with a new sensor and the old sensor must be sent back to the Warranty Parts Return Centre with a copy of any of the DME fault codes if they are present.Based on the results of the Dealer Communications System the following procedure must be followed:Remedy:The customer’s permission and signature must be obtained before the procedure begins.Read and print out DME fault codes if present. Ignore the camshaft sensor fault codes if they are present.Clear all fault codes stored in the DMEReplace the camshaft sensor as outlined in the repair manual group.No Start Caused by Faulty Oil Level SwitchModel:BMW E39 (5series) with M52 engine, BMW E46 (3 series) Vehicles up to November 1998Complaint:The vehicle will not start, there is no crank. It may also be noticed that there is no transmission range display in the Instrument Cluster. The charge indicator lamp flickers or is permanently on. The oil level switch is stored in the Instrument Cluster (E46). Fuse 15 or Fuse 30 is blown.This is due to a faulty oil level switch which causes the fuse to blow so there is a loss of input to EWS from the Transmission Range Switch.Remedy:-If Fuse 15 or Fuse 30 is blown then install a new fuse (7.5A), turn the ignition to attempt to start the engine.-If the fuse blows again, disconnect the Oil Level Switch at the plug connector.Install a new fuse and start the engine.-If the engine starts, and the range display is shown in the Instrument Cluster then replace the Oil Level Switch.In order to confirm a defective switch then use a DVM to check the resistance between the pins of the 3 pin connector. If the switch is good it should measure infinite resistance between any 2 pins in the connector.Fault Code 227/228Model:E36 – BMW 328i with M52 engineE39 – BMW 528i with M52 engineComplaint:The ‘Check Engine’ lamp is illuminated.FC 227 – Mixture deviation, cylinder 1-3 and/orFC 228 – Mixture deviation cylinder 4-6Remedy:Check the correct Air Mass Meter is installed. If the wrong one is installed then it needs to be replaced as well as the Suction Silencer. The rubber boot may not need replacing as it has a rubber ‘downsizing’ ring which is used for installing the smaller Air Mass Meter on other models. Remove the inner rubber ring from the rubber boot in order to install the larger Air Mass Meter.If the correct air mass meter is installed then check the adaptation values located in the DME diagnostic status section. These values can provide a further insight into what has made the fault set.After repairs are made relating to an adaptation related fault, the adaptation values should be cleared. This will allow the vehicle to driven under various load conditions and readapted. If the adaptation values are rechecked an indication of the success of the repair can be obtained.Multiplicative mixture adaptation (Part Load) Vehicle under loadIf the value is greater than 6% there may be an unmeterd air leak and not enough fuel is reaching the system, or an erroneous signal from the air mass meter. Then the oxygen sensor will measure a lean signal, which will cause the DME to compensate for the problem by trying to make the mixture rich.If the value is less than -7% there could be an air restriction, erroneous signal from the air mass meter, or too much fuel in the system. The oxygen sensor signal will then measure a rich signal which causes the DME to compensate for the problem by making the mixture lean.Additive mixture adaptation (Idle) Vehicle idleIf the value is greater than 0.2 ms then there is an unmeterd air leak where not enough fuel is being supplied to the system or an erroneous signal from the air mass meter. The oxygen sensor signal measures a lean signal which causes the DME to compensate and make the mixture too rich.If the value is less than -0.2ms then there is an air restriction, and too much fuel is being supplied to the system or an erroneous signal from the air mass meter. The oxygen sensor signal measures a rich signal which causes the DME to compensate for the problem by making the mixture too lean.Once a certain threshold (ms) value is exceeded the system can no longer offset the problem and a fault is logged.Seal on 2 and 3 Pin Plug ConnectorsModel:All BMWComplaint:When connecting or disconnecting 2 or 3 pin plug connectors it is possible for the rectangular seal to fall out of the plug housing unnoticed. The seal prevents moisture from seeping into the plug as well as ensuring that the two halves of the plug are properly tensioned so that the contacts do not move within the plug. If this movement occurs the contacts can develop corrosion. Corroded or loose contacts could cause problems with the proper functioning of the vehicle, as well as causing difficulty in diagnosis due to the possibly intermittent nature of such problems.Remedy:Ensure that when working with 2 or 3 pin plug connectors the seal is in place before the plug connector is connected. If it is missing then it must be replaced.Oil Pressure Warning Light Comes OnModel:BMW E38 with M60, M62 and M73 EnginesComplaint:During production an oil pressure switch wiring harness was installed which could let water into the electrical connector, which in turn will cause corrosion at the oil pressure switch pin connections. As a consequence of this corrosion the engine oil pressure warning light will come on, even if the oil pressure is fine.Remedy:The oil pressure switch and the oil pressure switch wiring harness needs to be replaced. This procedure will apply to vehicles produced before January 1996.M52 Engine Control Module Fault Code 12Model:E36–BMW 328i and E39–BMW 528i with M52 EngineComplaint:Due to a software error in the DME results an erroneous setting of fault code 12 in the DME will occur. The customer can experience the ASC lamp being illuminated, the ‘check engine’ lamp is illuminated. The vehicle may also show Fault Code 12 (Throttle valve potentiometer in the DME), Fault Code 154 (CAN accelerator pedal setting in the EGS/AGS), and Fault Code 57 (Throttle valve signal from DME in ASC/ABS).Remedy:The Engine Control Module (DME) needs to be reprogrammed using the MODIC programming software version P9.0 or higher. Once the DME has been reprogrammed perform “Quick Clear” which will clear any faults that have been set as a result of the reprogramming. Next clear the “Throttle Position adaptation values” under service functions.Oil Level SensorModel:BMW E31 and E34 with M60 and M62 engines produced from January 1995 – January 1996.Complaint:As a result of a porous float in the level sensor assembly the engine oil level sensor may indicate an incorrect oil level.Remedy:Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all. If action is necessary then replace the oil level sensor on the affected vehicles.Engine Control Module Fault Code for Throttle Position SensorModel:BMW E34 and E36 with M50 enginesComplaint:The ‘check engine’ light is on, and in automatic transmission vehicles the failure indicator for transmission control module is on, and the transmission operates in the failsafe mode.Remedy:The idle speed control valve is to be replaced if:-The engine control module has a fault code 12 (M50), or fault code 73 (M50TU), and transmission control module fault code 105 (only automatic transmission vehicles) is experienced.-The throttle position sensor and its circuit have tested good, and-No other outside influence can be found. (These include the floor mat pushed up against the pedal, a misadjusted throttle cable, or a misadjusted cruise control actuator assembly). (jump to top)Coolant Temperature Sensor (NTC)Model:BMW E34 (M5) produced from October 1992 to December 1992Complaint:During production of the S38 engines the incorrect NTC coolant temperature sensors with a blue connector housing and tin plated electrical contacts may have been installed. Due to the vehicles’ wiring harness which connects to the NTC have gold plated connectors the two metals can corrode which will cause implausible signals to be transmitted to the DME control module, and adversely affect the driving characteristics.Remedy:Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, enter the chassis number of the vehicle involved and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all. If action is necessary then:-Remove the NTC coolant temperature sensor plug which is mounted in the coolant pipe above the exhaust manifold–blue connector.-If the contacts on the NTC coolant temperature sensor are tin-plated then replace with a new NTC sensor with gold-plated contacts.-Top off coolant level if necessary.-If the sensors on the NTC are gold-plated the sensor does not need to be replaced.Incorrect Fuel Gauge ReadingModel:BMW E36 (3 series) including BMW 318ti produced from January 1995Complaint:Due to the formation of a non-conducting deposit on the conductor surface of the fuel level sensor, the fuel gauge does not read full after re-fuelling, or the fuel gauge is erratic. Remedy:Remove and replace both fuel level sensors with “Gold system” sensors.Fuel Gauge Stays Empty after Refuelling/Fuel Gauge ErraticModel:BMW Z3 Roadster/coupe, BMW M roadster/coupe (E36/7). Vehicles produced before December 15 2000Complaint:After refuelling the fuel gauge will stay on empty or the fuel gauge is erratic. This is caused by a non-conducting deposit being formed on the conductor surface of the fuel level sensor. For the Z3 from September 1998 and the M roadster/coupe FC 2 (Fuel sensor voltage plausibility) will be set in the Instrument Cluster.Remedy:Remove and replace the fuel level sensor with a ‘Gold system’ sensor referring to repair instructions 16 12 000.Incorrect Fuel Gauge ReadingModel:BMW E53 (X5) vehicles produced before August 17 th 2000.Complaint:After the tank has been filled the fuel gauge will either not read “full”, or the correct reading will only be shown once the ignition has been switched OFF and ON again. These faults will be stored in the Instrument Cluster:- Fault Code 8 – Fuel tank sensor 1 (fuel –pump side) and/or-Fault Code 9 – Fuel tank sensor 2 (without fuel pump)These errors are caused by a non-conducting deposit being formed on the conductor surface of the fuel level sensor.Remedy:Using the DIS or MoDiC:-Select diagnosis-Select Function Selection/Complete Vehicle/Body/Displays and Information/Instrument Cluster.-Select Test Plan-Select 4 – Expert Mode/ Read Fault Memory to confirm fault codes 8 and/or 9 are set.-Select 3 Service Functions/ 1 – Test Code-Press ‘Test Code’ button to save test code.-Print Diagnosis Report-Remove and replace the right hand delivery unit and the left hand fuel level sensor. Refer to repair instructions 16 12 000 and 16 12 001.-Also to ensure a correct installation of the left side sensor use the following procedure:-Lubricate the small o-ring for the fuel transfer pipe to ensure the o-ring does not push out of position when the fuel transfer pipe is being installed.-Lubricate the inside edge of the large o-ring seal, so that the fuel level sensor will slide easily into position.-The fuel level sensor must be installed keeping the top flange square to the tank at all times. Rotate the sensor so that the lug is located above it’s recess, then push the sensor vertically down into position. It must NOT be installed at an angle.-Using the DIS or MoDiC select 4 – Expert Mode/ Clear Fault Memory to clear the fault code memory.Fuel Gauge Reads ¼ when Tank Is FullModel:BMW Z3 (E36/7) produced from September 1998 to April 1999Complaint:After refuelling the fuel gauge reads ¼ full, and will then move extremely slowly to read full. This is due to a software error in the Instrument Cluster.Remedy:Re-code the instrument cluster using DIS CD Version 18.0 or later:-Select Coding/Programming/ZCS Coding/E36/Recoding/Kombi and then follow the on-screen instructions to complete the coding process.-Recoding the instrument cluster will start an internal day counter. If the test3.1 contains a value greater than 0 indicates the instrument cluster will already contain the fix.Evaporative Emission Control – On Board Diagnostic SystemModel:E36 – BMW 318i and BMW Z3 with M44 produced from January 1997E36 – BMW 328i produced from October 1995E36 – BMW M3 produced from March 1996E38 – BMW 740i/iL and BMW 750iL produced from May 1997Complaint:The ‘check engine lamp is illuminated, and one or more of the following faults are set in the Engine Control Module (DME):-In the M52 Engine the complaints include the tank venting system, minor leak (Code 251), Tank ventilation (Code 252), Shut-off valve, activated charcoal filter, jammed shut (Code 253) or Tank venting system, major leak (Code 254).-In the M44, M62 or M73 Engine the complaints include the tank venting system, major leak (Code 94), Shut –off valve, activated charcoal filter, jammed shut (Code 96) or Tank venting system, minor leak (Code 97).Remedy:The check engine lamp will only be illuminated if the fault is present during two consecutive drive cycles. To complete a check of these systems the vehicle needs to run in a way that allows these functions to work fully. Any attempt to duplicate the specific driving condition will be unsuccessful, thus it is recommended that the test modules through BMW specific test tools are utilized. One driving cycle includes engine start up - drive - engine shutoff and will test the:-Evaporative system – component functional check-Evaporative system leak detection-Tank venting/shutoff valve operation-Monitoring catalytic converter efficiency-Secondary air induction operationIf a fault occurs due to a major leak or a minor leak being present then check if the fuel filler cap has been installed correctly. This can be easily detected if the cap can be easily pulled off. To clear the fault properly install the cap, printout the fault information, clear the fault, select service functions, select DME system test, select 3- Leakage diagnosis, tank venting system.If the fault returns the system needs to be checked for further leaks using the Evaporative System Leak Test Pool with an A/C leak detector.If NO leak is detected the following component checks need to be carried out:-Check the fuel filler gasket has not been damaged.-Check operation of purge valve.-Check purge valve using a hand held vacuum pump to check the valve can hold a vacuum.-Check the o-ring is properly installed.-Check for any broken hose fittings in the expansion tank.-Check the operation of the shut-off valve.-Check the shut-off valve has been correctly installed into the charcoal canister.-Check routing of hose going to the fuel tank pressure sensor. If the hose is pinched it should be rerouted or shortened.If the fault occurs through the shut-off valve the following must be checked:-The routing of the hose going to the fuel tank pressure sensor. If the hose is pinched it should be rerouted or shortened.-The operation of the Shut-off Valve, Purge Valve and Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor should be tested.-Remove the shut-off valve from the charcoal canister and look for obstructions which do not allow the valve to shut correctlyService Action to Recode Instrument ClusterModel:BMW Z3 (E36/7) produced between August 1998 to May 1999Complaint:After filling with fuel the fuel gauge can show a low reading, then while driving can move to correct position.Remedy:Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, enter the chassis number of the vehicle involved and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all. If action is necessary then:Recode the instrument cluster using DIS CD Version 18.0 byConnect the DIS or MoDiC III to the diagnostic connector, switch on the engine, select ‘Encoding ZCS (‘3’)’, select Series E36 (‘4’), Select recoding (‘1’), select Kombi (‘10’), follow the on screen instructions to complete.Coolant Temperature Gauge Reads High Under Normal Operating ConditionsModel:BMW M roadster (E36/7) All vehicles produced until June 1998Complaint:Under normal operating conditions the pointer on the coolant temperature gauge reads between the mid-way point and the mark above the mid-way point. This is due to a coding error during the vehicle assembly.Remedy:Do not replace any components instead:Recode the instrument cluster using DIS CD Version 18.0 byConnect the DIS or MoDiC III to the diagnostic connector, switch on the engine, select ‘Encoding ZCS (‘3’)’, select Series E36 (‘4’), Select recoding (‘1’), select Kombi (‘10’), follow the on screen instructions to complete.Oxygen SensorOxygen Sensor Update and DME ReprogrammingModel:BMW E36 with M44 engineComplaint:Over time the oxygen sensors on these vehicles can develop poor internal electrical connections which will illuminate the check engine light. When this occurs possible fault codes set in the DME are:Fault Code 10, Oxygen Sensor Pre Catalyst and/orFault Code 12, Oxygen Sensor Post Catalyst.Remedy:Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, enter the chassis number of the vehicle involved and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all. If action is necessary then:Replace both oxygen sensors (pre cat regulating sensor and post cat monitoring sensor) and using the DIS or MODIC P14.0 programming software and reprogram the Engine Control Module.Quality Monitoring M60 Oxygen SensorsModel:BMW E34 and BMW E38 with M60 B40 engines produced from September 1994 to August 1995Complaint:The oxygen sensors of the listed vehicles need to be replaced with new sensors as a quality monitoring gauge. The old sensors should be returned to the Warranty Parts return Centre with a copy of any DME fault codes if present.Remedy:Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, enter the chassis number of the vehicle involved and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all. If action is necessary then:-Obtain customer permission and signature to authorize the extraction of both left and right oxygen sensors.-Read and print out DME faults.Test/hex code printout procedure:Select ‘3 service functions’ and right arrow button.Select ‘1 test code’ and right arrow button.Select ‘test code R’Select print ‘diagnosis report’-Ignore any oxygen sensor fault codes if present.-Clear all fault codes stored in the DME-Replace both oxygen sensors referring to the repair manual group 11 section.Oxygen Sensor Wiring Harness Voluntary Recall Campaign No. 98E A02Model:BMW E36 with M42 engine (manual transmission only)Complaint:A voluntary campaign from BMW in North America is recalling the oxygen sensor wiring harness of the above vehicles. The oxygen sensor harness may have been routed incorrectly during production. One possible solution could be the oxygen sensor harness has been accidentally secured with clips to the exhaust heat shield and/or to a bracket on the transmission housing. The oxygen sensor harness could stretch and eventually break with the movement between the vehicle body, transmission and exhaust system causing the check engine light to illuminate and the fault code 70 – oxygen sensor disconnected to set in the DME.Remedy:Utilize the ‘Service Menu’ of the Dealer Communication System, enter the chassis number of the vehicle involved and based upon the response of the system either proceed with corrective action, or take no action at all. If action is necessary then:-Read and print out the DME faults.-Troubleshoot and repair DME fault codes other than fault code 70 using the DIS tester instructions as necessary.-Check the oxygen sensor harness for hold down clips or any signs (crimped or pinched areas in the sheathing) where a clip or other hold down device may have been installed in the past.-Remove all clips and other oxygen sensor wiring harness hold down devices from the exhaust heat shield, transmission bracket.-If installed, bend the transmission bracket using a pair of up over the bolt head.- The oxygen sensor must only be replaced if the oxygen sensor harness had any fastener holding it in place, or the oxygen sensor shows any signs of it being fastened previously, or Fault Code 70 is stored in the DME.(jump to top)
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Fault finding; resistor in CCM:  ESD Regelt error E32:E34: below English  Fault finding; solder joint in CCM:  brake light errorE32:E34:belowEnglish     Fault finding; resistor in CCM   (jump to top)Problem: CCM kept throwing up ESD Regelt error for no apparent reasonSolution: bad resistor; FIXEDFor those who have cracked the cases on the CCM, you'll no doubt recognize a highly symetrical design. This is for a reason... there are about 30 separate, but identical test circuits in the CCM that check everything from your brake lights to the key in the ignition. Every single one of these test circuits is set up as what is known in the business as a "current loop". That means that the system sends a current through the closed loop of the and measures the voltage drop across a precision resistor.If the drop is out of range, you get an error. Not to difficult. Anyway, to debug my CCM, I took the cases off and put it back in the car and started the engine. Immediately I got the ESD Regelt error. Using my multi-meter, I started testing the voltage at the precision resistors. All were the same... accept for 1. Hmm. I pulled the CCM and put it on the bench. Again using the multi-meter, this time in ohms mode, I measured the precision resistors. Each bank of precision resistors has 4 2K ohm resistors and 1 1K ohm resistor... again, nice symmetry. Problem was, one of my 2K ohm resistors was 2.7K ohms... since I did not have any spare precision resistor networks laying around, I instead calculated that an 8.2K ohm resistor in parallel with the suspicious 2.7K ohm resistor would bring the value back down to the required 2.0K ohms. 30 seconds of soldering and the new resistor was in place. I left the case off the CCM and plugged it back into the car. Hey, no more ESD-Regelt! I checked the voltages and all were exactly the same - as they should be.Anyway, thought I would post this since this is one of those gremlins that could be hard to track and cure... it's sort of analogous to the capacitor fix for the cluster. Of course, this problem could have been solved by purchasing a new or refurbished CCM... but then again, we're all trying to keep that cost of ownership down! This info was posted by Kevin on RF March 30, 2002  -- photos below are from the Japanese BMW group - many thanks guyslocation of CCMremove the back panelSerial number for this unitBoard mounting view -- appears to be glued to the back plastic plate.Squeeze the bayonet pins to release the boardtop view of the board -- the poster replaced the capacitors but this did not eliminate the weird CCM warnings. Get your digitial voltmeters out and start checking the resistors.NOTE: different CCM models will likely have different parts arrangment! But diagnosis is same.Fault finding; solder joint in CCM   (jump to top)Problem: CCM kept throwing up Brake light error for no apparent reasonSolution: cracked solder joint: FIXEDThis is a translation from the Japanese report written by JB1, an Alpina freak of the best kind.This is the schematic he usedHis analysis was that the Brake light warning was thrown because P2 on IC2 was NOT HIGH. This was due to some problem with the resistor group R60.R60 checked out ok, so he figured that the common supply was at fault.topview showing R60 and the common supplybottom view showing common supply pinfixing the solder jointVoila, pin P2 on IC2 is now high and the problem has disappeared.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Vacuum gauge: all: below English     Vacuum gauge (jump to top) A basic vacuum gauge is not expensive and can be extremely useful in analyzing your engine.  The gauge values below are in the standard units of INCHES OF  MERCURY. First, WITH THE ENGINE WARM AND IDLING  there are 6 gauge patterns: 1 normal and        5 problem patterns      -  worn rings    -  sticking valve    -  burnt valve    -  leaky  valve    -  worn valve guideNext,  WITH THE ENGINE WARM, BLIP THE THROTTLE there are  2 gauge  patterns:1 normal and    -  worn rings or poor oil Normal IDLE condition:  slight fluctuation around some number from 17 to 22. (jump to top) Problem IDLE condition:  slight fluctuation around some number lower than normal  by 4-5  points. Analysis: Usually worn  rings but could also be old engine oil, late ignition timing, a leaky vacuum hose or a leak in the intake  system.  (jump to top)    Problem IDLE condition:  vacuum drops  by 4-5  points occasionally. Analysis: Usually sticking valve.  May also be misfire.  Check the color and condition of the spark plugs. (jump to top)   Problem IDLE condition:  vacuum drops  by 6-7  points on regular cycle. Analysis: Usually burnt valve.  Check the color and condition of the spark plugs.  Leak-down test  to prove condition. (jump to top)   Problem IDLE condition:  vacuum drops  by 5-6  points on regular cycle. Analysis: Usually leaky valve.  May also be misfire.  Check the color and condition of the spark plugs.  (jump to top) Problem IDLE condition:  rapid fluctuation of  3-4 points on regular cycle.Analysis: Usually worn valve guide.  Exhaust may be  smoking be present.  If engine speed changes with the needle, check for leaks in the intake system.  (jump to top)Normal THROTTLE BLIP condition:  rapid fall to 2 on acceleration then over vacuum (25) and return to normal.Analysis:   (jump to top)Problem THROTTLE BLIP condition:  rapid fall to 0 on acceleration and over vacuum and return to to a lower than normal reading.Analysis: Usually worn rings or old oil (jump to top) 
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Checking heater valves: E32: here English A whole load of checks and data: E32: here English Descriptions of IHKA operation  and possible faults: E32: here English IHKA: fails to work well E32: below English IHKA: squealing/squeaking noise  from control panelE32:belowEnglishIHKA: insufficient or excessive heat -- water valves not working properlyE32:belowEnglish Room Thermistor  (jump to top) Symptoms: 1.output low through all vents 2.on starting when set to medium heat on dial car will get warm inside but once on the move a medium heat isn't possible. Either full heat or nothing. 3.fan seems fine but air not getting out well except on max setting. windsreen vents seem ok though. Cause: The room temperature thermistor is either cracked (failed) or dirty.  Fix;  here Room Thermistor Fan:    (jump to top)Symptoms:When the ignition is on there is an annoying squealing/squeaking noise  from the control panel.Cause:The small fan moving air past the room temperature thermistor is dirtyFix: hereWater valves defective:    (jump to top)Symptoms:Winter time you freeze or in summer you cook. Either way its time to check the water valves.This system is rather basic and should be easy to repair.The two main problems are 1) the solenoids are jammed or  2) the control signal is wrong.The water valves have one water input (from the engine) and two outputs (to left and right side heater cores inside the cabin).The IHKA sends a control signal to drive each solenoid of each valve.When the control signal is OFF, the solenoid lifts and water flows through the heater coreWhen the control signal is ON, the solenoid drives the valve down to stop the water flow.Here is what to look for.With power ON (ignition switch in position I or II) & temperature set to maximum (28 deg C), the control signal should 0 V.At temperatures under 28 deg C  but above 16 deg C, the signal is pulsed: the control period increases as the temperature is lowered.At the temperature setting of 16 deg C, the solenoid is driven fully closed: the control signal is steady 12V.Check the control signal by using this type of impulse meterDigital multimeters (DMM) are limited, as they always showonly the middle/average value.At max. 28 degree C. the light should be fully/always off, at 16 degree C minimum temperature the light should be fully on. In between 16 and 28 degrees, the light should blink, but at different intervals depending on the adjustment. Best is to switch the blower fan to max also, as otherwise the heater valves are adjusted automatically by the system, and the blinking frequency is reduced. Connect the clamp of the test light at the pole of the jump start pole (Plus)Then 'stick' the needle of the test light into the yellow/brown wire for the driver side and yellow/purple (violet) wire for the passenger side. The light will blink according to the impulses or it will be full on at the 16 degree Celsius position, and it will be off at the maxiumum temperature adjustment of 28 degree Celsius.If the control signal is OK, give the solenoids a sharp whack with the plastic handle of a screwdriver; this may dislodge a stuck valve.water valve repair is here
Problem Description Link battery loses charge often simple but effective test to find "leaking circuit" with the evil drain below     Basic circuit check  -- from Shogun (jump to top)Tools: Digital or Analog Multimeter with DC Amp scale of about 100 milliamps (mA)Background:When the car is fine and healthy there is only a sleeping drain of 30 mA, higher than this will drain the battery quickly depending on battery condition etc.Evil drains can be either failed devices or failed wiring. Good drains include the radio, EML and DME.All power supply wiring should be fused, some also have a relay, most have a switch -- so the typical circuit is  battery -> wiring -> switch -> relay -> fuse -> device -> earth -> batteryPoint 1: download and study the circuit diagram for your model from here Point 2: The E32 enters sleep mode 16 minutes after the last activity -- usually closing the door.Test:- remove the rear seat, wind down the rear windows- prepare two good gauge wires long enough to reach the engine compartment if you are working alone -- the wires should have crocodile clips at both ends.- set the multimeter at about 5 A DC to begin with- connect the wires to the leads of the multimeter (be careful not to short them  out), and plug the leads into the multimeter- connect the free end of the positive multimeter wire to the clamp on the battery's negative terminal - loosen the clamp and, while still keeping contact with the terminal, raise the clamp until you can connect the negative multimeter wire to the terminal,  lift the clamp up and isolate it. This ensures that the radio does not loose its security code! But you have recorded the radio code just in case, right?- close the door and wait the 16 mins, the multimeter should show a drop in current.- change the multimeter scale to read about 100 mA- now remove the fuses one at time and check for any sudden drop in current -- the fuse yielding the drop is on the circuit holding the evil drain.Point 3: leave the fuses for the radio DME and EML to last -- hopefully the bad circuit is not one of these!Point 4: If you have removed all fuses and the current flow is still present, then the wiring/connections between the battery and the fuses is at fault ORPoint 5: It might be possible that the insulation on the cable from the alternator to the + post in the engine room is damaged, so disconnect the cable at the post and check- if you find a bad circuit, reinstall the fuse and then remove the device;  check if the current falls again. If it does not, move back up the circuit -> relay -> switch and check each part.  You will nail it with enough persistence!
State Group fault 1 Group fault 2 Group fault 3 Part a Part b Part c Part d Part e Part f Part g Part h Part i
(1) COLLECT DATA (2) IDENTIFY KEY DATA (3) MAKE HYPOTHESIS(4) TEST - ALTER(5) OBSERVE RESPONSE(6) NEW STATE?(7) RETURN TO (1) IF NOT FIXED
DESCRIPTION MODELS Language Entered limp home while running w/o problem   -- below E32: M70 specific English         EML failure    E32 M70 specific (jump to top)Tools needed: fairly sensitive digitial voltmeter -peak hold function would be useful if singlehandedSymptoms:  EML light came on, and Bank 1-6 shut down.        Identify failed bank by disconnecting DK one by one, if disconnection makes no difference then that is the failed bank.Initial checks: No Fail codes.1-6 throttle won't move on command, 7-12 works fine. Swapping DME's over had no effect Swapping throttles over had no effectInitial Conclusion:  Not DME problemNot DK problemCould be wiring/plugsCould be INPUT SIGNALS (must be unique to the failed bank) - crank position sensor - cylinder identification pickup -  Could be fuel pump - fuel pump fuse - fuel pump relayCould be EML unitAdditional checks:EML light comes on before engine start     SO cannot be cylinder identification pickup     OR crank position sensorFuel pump - relay- fuse check okMeasure DK voltages When turning the key to position 2 - before engine start - measured with DK disconnected 7-12 (the good side) receives 12v to pin3 and 6 v to pin 5. then both pins go to zero 6-12 (the bad side) receives 7.2v to pin3 and 4.2v to pin5. These values remain. The only differences between the throttles are on pins 3 and 5. All the other pins give matching readings.       SO wiring looks good on 6-12 bank  -- Power is being delivered  -- maybe plug       OR problem is with DK output circuit of EML Final conclusion: Blown Transistor on the EML ! ! !" I opened up the EML to see if there were any obvious reasons why it wasn't delivering a 12v initialisation pulse to throttle pin 3, and one of the power transistors had scorch marks all over the heat shield, and was SPLIT IN TWO..."This is NOT common problemWARNING:  DK output circuit does not have short circuit protection so a momentary short in the driving circuit may blow the output transistor(s)                       BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN CHECKING VOLTAGES/RESISTANCES AT THE DK PLUG Repair:Bought replacement EML unit
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language ROUGH IDLEI have had my M70 for a bit over 2 years and in that time it has always had a rough idle and ran a little rich - noticeable difference between banks etc.( tried to fix it - plugs, caps, rotors, coils, lifters, MAFs BUT NG) SOLUTION: its the DKsMAJOR gunk buildup around armature but more importantlythe brushes that are supposed to contact the armature were not properly contacting the armature - the tracks that the brushes run in were full of gunk and crap from years of the brushes wearing on the armaturePLUSthe gears themselves were covered in gunk and crap - the factory grease had hardened and of course the throttles were hard to move and sticking at points E32: E31 forum English  Rough Idle and Engine Shaking -- ultimate guide E32: below English  Rough Idle -- Air leak through a fuel injector O-ring: photo E32: below English No power, not limp home:  fuse #20 was blown E32: below English  Engine will not start and OBC has no display E32: below English Rough Idle and Engine Shaking – the Ultimate Guide! (jump to top)Before checking 1-25, try the Shogun RESET Procedure here(Including information about Catalytic Converters)Thanks to Johan for examples/pictures on his website – to follow the links hold down CTRL and press the link:1) Spark plugs, plug wires, rotor & ignition coils - Clean and inspect.2) Check compression – poor cylinder head compression is common for an older car. Big job to fix this.3) Use a good fuel-injector cleaning treatment into the tank – take it for a good run.4) Change fuel filter.5) Remove and clean injectors – might need to replace injectors.6) Hose to fuel pressure regulator – might be cracked/worn (buy a new one)7) Rubber hose between Airflow Meter and throttle – cracked?8) Mass Airflow meter/sensor – if dirty clean it up. Bad Air Flow Meter will cause flat spots in acceleration or erratic spots in the throttle depending on the opening of the airflow meter not usually a complete lack of power.9) Hose to air filter – cracked?10) Air filter – replace if dirty, check seals.11) Distributor cap – if eroded and worn - changed to new one12) Check fuel pressure - Replace the Fuel Pressure Regulator. Might need to replace Fuel Pump.13) Check and Adjust valves - throttle valves, PCV valve behind intake runner, Idle Control Valve (ICV).• ICV Idle Control Valve. Remove and clean it with brake parts cleaner. This regulates the air coming in to your intake manifold when the throttle body is closed and it tends to get dirty, sticky and the motor inside could not turn the valve properly.• Idle control valve sometime sticks open – causes issues when in Idle14) Throttle Body - Clean it out and replace the gasket (can use gasket material cut to size).15) Check all Vacuum lines.16) Conduct a ‘leak down test’ on all exhaust valves.17) Check for Oxygen (O2) sensor function tests.18) Check the wide-open throttle switch under the gas pedal.19) Check throttle position switch on the throttle body.20) Make sure connections on battery (under back seat) are very clean. Use wire brush.21) Check rubber boot between the Mass Air Flow and the DKM.22) Check for intake manifold gasket leak23) Have the transmission checked for correct functioning – (by mechanic).24) Make sure there are no other sources of drag in the driveline.25) Check coolant sensor.Rough Idle -- Air leak through a fuel injector O-ring (jump to top)After checking all the rubber hoses for leaks, and the intake gaskets etc. etc. you may need to check the O-rings on the fuel injectors. This shows the top of the injector. (jump to top)No power, but not limp home (jump to top)03/1988 750iL E32  from ShorelineI started the car yesterday to clean the garage, as I was putting it away I noticed the EML light did not come on for two seconds like it would normally do, also temp guage does not work nor can I output obc data to cluster, although the oil light etc stil work.Anyway, I drove it up and down the road and it would not go over about 10kmh, I have fitted new battery recently and the drivers door lock failed, after I tried to resolder the connectors as it had the lock/unlock problem.Car idles slightly rough and when you pull the MAF connectors, both banks stumble then run as normal so it is not on 6 cylinders. <<Not limp mode then>>I am charging the battery as the OBC gave 12.09v at key in ignition not started, and 13.5v at idle.  (NEXT DAY)Tested the eml lights on the console and they are fine, I will look at the X20 and 21 connectors << connections in X20/21 can be become loose >> , it is strange that the obd display in the console does not light up as well as the eml, I will look for any fuses on the way to/from there as well.(NEXT DAY) found problemFuse number 20 under the bonnet where the lamp module sits was the culprit, now all the lights come on and the drivers door locks ;-)I love it when a 15c fuse can render a car unusable.Engine will not start and the OBC display is off (jump to top)If your OBC display is dead and the engine does not start, it could be the fuse for the OBC. Check also the plug into the OBC! That fuse is hidden because the OBC holds the code responsible for controlling the anti-theft device. Lift the rear seat behind driver and you will see a hole on the seat frame. You should be able to remove the fuse with the fuse tool from the fuse box thru that hole or you have to remove some of the modules and maybe some screws where the other modules sit. The module is fixed to the base frame of the rear seat drivers side with 2 screws, accessible from the legroom after removing the carpet.This is under the rear LHS seat
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixesLanguage Gauges don't work when temperature is low:  capacitors in dash may need to be replaced E32 J&SEnglish        
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Your rear seat starts to smoke w/o permission:  this is not a special BMW feature  E32: below English Your front fuse box is slowly melting: great photos of rebuilding the fuse box assembly E32: here English Your car catches fire:this is serious stuff - pay attention E32: below  fix is here English     Help - my rear seat is on fire - a true story  (jump to top)from Pete in U.K.Rear seat started to smoke - fortunately there was no open fireThe problem was the rear window defroster -- the defroster is driven by a relay in the LKM.In his case the relay stuck full on and the heavy current drain of the rear windowdefroster overloaded fuse 35 in the rear power distribution box OR the defogger relay k13 (see diagram below, inset 3)The defroster circuit is designed to operate only for a short time then switch off automatically.This problem is difficult to prevent since there is no indicator that the relay has become stuck on!Fix: repair the LKM module and of course all the stuff under the rear seathere is the damageMy car is on fire  (jump to top)E32 and E31 M70 models have a reputation for engine room fires.The cause is failure of the insulation on the heavy power cable from the alternator to the + terminal post.Two faults are possible: the cable corrodes which cause high power drop at the corroded part with then turns into an arc welding machineOR the cable touches some metal part and then turns into an arc welding machineFirst the cause then the result  Fix is herethis is the cable from Shogun's trusty E32this E31 owner did not check his cable soon enough
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Smell / leakage of petrol:  E32: below English     ABS warning light flickers:  (jump to top) Full HTML page is here ABS, ASC, AND ASC+T MALFUNCTION MODELS AFFECTED: All models equipped with ABS,ASC OR ASC+T FAULT: Any of the ABS ASC and ASC+T systems inoperative, intermittently inoperative, or illuminating the warning lamp. CAUSE: All BMW'S with slip control systems use 4 wheel speed sensors which monitor each wheels speed of rotation with a high accuracy. The system control unit uses this information to calculate a vehicle speed. In this way it detects wheel speed variation. If the inputs vary from each other by a certain amount, the control unit is not able to do the calculation reliably (plausibility fault) and takes its self off-line as a safety precaution(fail-safe).This can be because the wheels and tires are non-approved parts and therefore do not agree with the system. SOLUTION: First make sure the wires to the sensors on the wheel hubs are in good condition and the plugs are securely in position. If the sensor teeth on a hub are badly rusted the sensor may not catch the signal reliably. Make sure the vehicle is fitted with BMW approved wheels and tires. Then do further diagnostic testing to check if fault is resolved. ABS WARNING LIGHT COMES ON MODELS AFFECTED: All with ABS FAULT: ABS warning light comes on intermittently. Normal troubleshooting procedures find no defect. CAUSE: If cars have recently had two new tires, or snow tires put on. Sometimes when the car is driven over 50 MPH. SOLUTION: Check all four tires on the car, make sure they are the same brand, style, and size. Check if any of the new tires have substantially more tread than the rest. These differences may cause enough variance in rolling diameters to confuse the ABS control unit, which intern gives a false signal to the ABS warning light. ABS WARNING LIGHT GLOWS MODELS AFFECTED: 3 series (E 36)-vehicles produced 1/96 to 3/96 without ASC. FAULT: On rare instances the ABS warning may glow slightly after other electrical consumers have been switched on. No fault is stored in the ABS control module fault memory. CAUSE: Hardware fault in the ABS control module. SOLUTION: If this is encountered replace the ABS control module.
Select most likely cause  --->          Cause is indicated by these symptoms low system voltage gauges are erratic - fault is intermittant - EML EML warning shown in cluster TCU TRANS PROGRAM  warning shown in cluster Cylinder identification sensor very subtle, difficult to find problem Cylinder identification sensor  (jump to top)For '91 750il:bank two is not running but no eml light is showing. Initial Checks:Both fuel pumps OK. Fuel is flowing to both regulators ok. Checked the spark on bank 2 and all wires have ok spark. A fault code is stored saying that there's a problem with the ignition on bank 2. Viewed the fuel injector pulsewidth and it's at .4 ms and shows the load being at 0 on bank 2. other side has normal readings. Also the scan tool says the the ignition fault would cut off fuel injector pulse width. Tried swapping coils, dme and maf, nothing changed. Solution:The spark plug on # 12 was fouled causing the signal from the cylinder identification sensor #2 (bank 2) to be skewed because it is driven  by cyl. number 12 spark plug wire for info to the DME. It thought that it had a dead cylinder and the engine management was cutting off fuel to that bank!
CAUSE DESCRIPTION DK movement different  M70 only -- DK units not synchronized More than 2% difference in throttling valve actuation, and your 750 enters limpmode as a safety precaution;  decided by the EML photos and fix here   keywords description photos and fix here   keywords description photos and fix here   keywords description photos and fix here   keywords description photos and fix here    
CAUSE DESCRIPTION Battery is failing overcharged - damaged, warped platestoo old - sulphatedlack of water description photos and fix here Alternator regulator is failing alternator output falls under 11 volts description photos and fix here Alternator belt is slipping usually squeals - lots of noise description photos and fix here Poor electrical connections battery terminals loose description photos and fix here Poor electrical connections    main cable connections (alternator - + post) loose description photos and fix here Poor electrical connections  mail cable is corroded description photos and fix here  
CAUSE DESCRIPTION Speed sensor failed/failing speed sensor is located in gearbox above output shaft  -- for 735i 02/1988 should show 540 ohms (+/- 10%) on pins 3 & 4 at plug X2005 (G/B connector) OR pins 27 & 8 at plug X2000  (TCU) speed sensor can fail gradually  -- eventually goes "circuit open" photos and fix here Low oil pressure  gearbox mechanical problem gearbox pump is worn OR  oil seals in clutch basket are worn OR oil level is low, there is insufficient pressure to prevent clutch slip photos and fix here Valve body problem electrical relays not responding photos and fix here Dirty gear indicator switch electrical switch problem crud/wear prevents this rather simple multi-contact switch from working photos and fix here TCU connection to gearbox NG    electrical plug or wires gear selector signal is not valid photos and fix here    
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Steering has become heavy at low speeds: servotronic unit has failed? E32: below fix is here English     Steering remains heavy at low speeds The power steering system has a variable voltage signal. Without the signal, the steering is heavy for high speed autobahn driving. With the signal, the power assist is high for parking. It appears that the servotronic is designed so that if it fails you can connect the wired plugs to each other to recovr maximum steering assist to get you home. • George Mann used an 18 ohm fixed resistor (wire wound high capacity type) to bypass his servotronic -- 18 ohms gave him reasonable balance between highway and city driving feel. As always to be complete, possible failure points to check speed signal is NG plugs/wiring to/from servtronic are NG Servotronic regulator unit is NG Servotronic drive on steering box is NG Steering box itself is NG fix is here
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS to fixes Language Shimmy at 80 mph: E32: below English Road wheel vibration: 1 page PDF chart to track the cause  -- very detailed E32: below English     Shimmy at 80 mph (jump to top) SHIMMY @ 80mph – likely culprits Check the following in this order: 1) Wheel alignment by a recommended mechanic (dynamic balancing) 2) Check your brake pads! 3) Check thrust arm bushings. (Some call them upper control arms). Bushing can go after several thousand km’s 4) Replace/check tie-rod center, and Left & Right tie-rods 5) Check Struts / Shock absorbers while your there. 6) Sometimes (rarely) disks are warped – replace them (machining is just as expensive if not more). Vibration Chart (jump to top)
German - English  Car Dictionaries (word and phrase equivalents) kiessling-racing rover-freunde Acronyms A - processed vehicle speed signal A - "out" (Aus) AB - Airbag ABL - Brake system warning Lamp (2 color) ABS - Anti-lock Braking System AC - Air Conditioning (from ETK) ACC - Active Cruise Control ACS - Active Comfort Seats ADB(X) - Automatic Differential Braking ADS - engine intake air control ADV - windshield wiper pressure control AEGS - Automatic Electronic Gearbox Control (also EGS) AFM - Air Flow Meter AGD - suction silencer (from ETK) AGR - emission reduction AGS - Adaptive transmission control AG - Automatic Gearbox (transmission) AHK - Active rear-axle Kinematics AHK - trailer hitch (from ETK) AHM - trailer Module (not for US models) AHPS - Advanced HPS AIC - Automatic Interval Control (rain sensor) AKF - activated carbon canister (from ETK) AKS - Active head restraint AKS - pressure regulating device (from ETK) ALC - Automatic Light Control ALR - Automatic Lamp Range Adjustment AMM - Air Mass Meter AMP - radio system AMPlifier ARI - car radio information system (from ETK) ARS - Active Roll Stabilization ASC - All Season traction ASC-EZA - ASC w/ engine timing and injection intervention ASC+T - ASC+ Traction control ASK - Audio System controller (Kontroller) ASR - self starter block relay (from ETK) AST - Automatic Slip control (marketing term) AT - remanufactured part (from ETK) AT - Antenna (from ETK) ATF - Automatic Transmission Fluid (from ETK) ATL - exhaust gas turbo charger (from ETK) AUC - Automatic air recirculation AUT - AUTomatic transmission (from ETK) AVT - Antenna amplifier Tuner AZD - tightening torque specifications (in TIS) A/D – Analog/Digital B - Benzene (gasoline) BAT - BATtery (from ETK) BC - Board Computer BC1 - Body Controller 1 BL - Brake Light (from ETK) BLS - Brake Light Switch BMBT - Board Monitor BS - Block diagram BST - Battery Safety Terminal BVA - Brake pad wear indicator (from ETK) BZM - center console control center BZMF - center console control center, rear CAN – Controller Area Network (Multiple ECU Controller) CAN-Bus - Controller Area Network (bus) CANH-Bus - CAN bus, High CANL-Bus - CAN bus, Low CANP - fuel tank ventilation valve CAS - Car Access System CBC - Corner Braking Control CBS - Condition Based Service CCM - Check Control Module CD - Control Display CDC - Compact Disk Changer CDS - CD player (from ETK) CEL - CELsius (from ETK) CIM - Chassis Integration Module CO - Carbon monOxide (from ETK) COMBI – Electronic Instrument Cluster CON - CONtroller CU - Copper (from ETK) CVM - Convertible top Module CVT - Constantly Variable Transmission CW - drag coefficient (from ETK) D1 - Xenon light/ gas discharge (from ETK) D-Bus - Diagnosis bus (same as TXD) DBC - Dynamic Brake Control DBS - Dynamic Braking System DCS - Dealer Communication System DE – Diagnostic Unit DD - Dynamic motor Drive DDE - Digital Diesel Electronics DIN - German industrial standards DIS - Diagnosis and Information System DISA - Differential air intake control DIVA - continuously variable length intake runners DK - throttle housing/valve DKB - throttle w/ brake intervention DKE – Throttle Increase DKI - throttle position DKR - throttle reduction DKT - throttle position signal DKV - preset throttle position value DME - Digital Motor Electronics DM-TL - Diagnostic Module Tank Leakage DOHC - Double Over Head Camshafts (from ETK) DS - gasket set (from ETK) DSC - Dynamic Stability Control DSP - Digital Sound Processing DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Code (SAE) DTC - Dynamic Traction Control DWA - theft deterrent system DWS - tire pressure Warning System DZM - revolution counter (from ETK) E - "in" (Ein) EBA - installation instructions (from ETK) EBV - Electronic Brake force proportioning ECE - European market version (from ETK) ECM - Engine Control Module (SAE term) ECU - Electronic Control Unit EDC - Electronic Damper Control (from ETK) EDR - Electronic throttle control E-KAT - Electrically heated catalytic converter EZA - see ASC-EZA ECM - Engine Control Module (SAE term) ECO - Controller for I-Drive system EDC - Electronic Dampening Control EDC-K - Electronic Dampening Control - Continuous EDK - Electronic throttle valve EDS - pressure regulator EFH - Electric window lifter (from ETK) EGS - Electronic transmission control EH - Electronic-Hydraulic EHC - Electronic Height Control EKM - Electronic body Module EKP - Electric fuel Pump ELV - Electronic steering lock EM - Electro-Mechanical EMF - Electro-Mechanical parking brake EML - Electronic Motor Load regulation EMV - Electro-Magnetic sensitivity (from ETK) EO - component location EPC - Electronic Parts Catalog (also ETK) EPROM - Erasable/ Programmable chip Memory (from ETK) ETK - Electronic parts catalog (also EPC) ETM - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual ESS - Electronic anti-theft device EV - injection Valve EWS - Electronic drive-away protection FB - Function description FBC - Fading Brake Control FBD - remote control services FBZV - radio frequency locking system FGR – Vehicle Speed Control (Cruise Control) FH - window lifter FHK - rear Heater/ air conditioner FLC - automatic Light Control FRU - Flat Rate Unit FS – Crash Sensor FZV - central lock receiver GAL - speed dependent sound volume GM - General Module GMR - yaw moment control GPS - Global Positioning System GRII - cruise control GRS - rotation Rate Sensor GS – Belt Tensioner GWK - torque converter lock-up control H - "rear" (Hinten) H2 - Xenon headlights HA - rear Axle (from ETK) HC – Hydro Carbon HD - Heavy Duty (from ETK) HDC - Hill Decent Control HFM - Hot Film air mass Meter HG - manual Gearbox (transmission) HKL - Hydraulic trunk lid Lift HLM – Hot Wire Air Mass Meter HPS - Head Protection System HR - Heater control (from ETK) HVA - Hydraulic Valve Adjuster (from ETK) Hz – Hertz (Cycle) I-Bus - Information bus IB - Interior lighting control signal IHKA - automatic Heating and A/C IHKAF - IHKA w/ micro filter IHKR - regulated Heating and A/C IHKRF - IHKR w/ micro filter IHKS - standard Heating and A/C IHPD - Internal High Pressure Deformation IHR - Integrated Heater control (from ETK) IKE - Instrument cluster Electronics ILH - Interior Lighting, rear ILV - Interior Lighting, front IMS - Instant Mobility System (from ETK) IR – Infrared IRS – Infrared Locking System ISC – Idle Speed Control ISIS - Intelligent Safety Integration System ISN - Individual Serial Number ISOFIX - standardized mounts for child restraints ITS - head airbag assembly/ Inflatable Tubular Structure IVM - Integrated power supply Module K-Bus - body bus (Karosserie) KAT - catalytic converter KATON - converter creating (signal) KD - Kick-Down KHI - interface for headphones KL - terminal designation KL15 - run bus (ignition switch run position) KL30 - battery bus (hot at all times) KL31 - ground bus (chassis ground) KL50 - start bus (ignition start position) KLR - accessory bus KO - compressor "on" signal KOMBI - instrument cluster KOREL - compressor relay signal KR – Contact Ring KSK - Knock Sensor KVA - fuel consumption signal/value KW - crankshaft KW - KiloWatt (from ETK) LCM - Lamp Check Module LDP - Leak Diagnosis Pump LEV - Low Emissions Vehicle LEW - Lateral acceleration sensor LHD - Left-Hand Drive (from ETK) LKM - Lamp control Module LL - closed throttle LM - Light Module LMM - air flow meter/sensor LMR - Light alloy wheel LRA - vertical headlight aiming LSM - steering column memory LSZ - Lamp Switching center LVA - air supply system (for EHC system) LWR - vertical headlight aim control LWS-5 - steering angle sensor M-Bus - IHKA/IHKR stepper motor bus MAL - center armrest MBC - Maximum Brake Control MDK - Motorized throttle valve/system MFL - Multi-Function steering wheel MFC - Multi-Function Controller MFU - Multi-Function Clock MID - Multi-Information Display MIL - Malfunction Indicator Lamp (SAE), "check engine" Lamp MIR - Multi-Information Radio MMC - Multi-Media Changer MoDiC - Mobile Diagnostic Computer MOST-Bus - Media Oriented System Transport bus MRS - Multiple Restraint System MSR - engine drag torque Regulation MV - Magnetic Valve (solenoid Valve) n-ab - rotational speed, transmission (rpm) n-mot - rotational speed, engine (rpm) NAVI - Navigation module NG - New Generation (as in N73 engine) NG - tilt sensor NOX - Nitrogen Oxides/ exhaust gas recirculation (from ETK) NSD - rear muffler (from ETK) NSL - rear fog Lamp (from ETK) NSW - fog lamp (from ETK) NTC - Negative Temperature Coefficient NW - camshaft (from ETK) OBC - On-Board Computer OBD - On-Board Diagnosis (SAE) P/N – Park/Neutral position P-Bus - Periphery bus PB - Pin assignments PBS - Parts Bulletin System (in TIS) PDC - Park Distance Control PGS - Passive Go System PM - Power Module PP – Impact Pad PTC - Positive Temperature Coefficient RLS - Rain-Light Sensor PWG - Pedal position sensor/ potentiometer RA - Repair instructions (in TIS) RAM – Random Access Memory RAL - Aluminum wheels (from ETK) RAL - standard color (from ETK) RDC - tire pressure Control RDS - Radio Data-broadcast System RDW - tire pressure Warning RHD - Right-Hand Drive (from ETK) RM - Relay Module ROZ - Research Octane rating/ fuel grade (from ETK) RPA - tire puncture warning (from ETK) RPS - Rollover Protection System RS - Repair kit (from ETK) RSW - back-up lamp (from ETK) RXD - wake-up Diagnosis line RZV - direct stationary ignition SASL - Satellite, A-pillar left SASR - Satellite, A-pillar right SAV - Sport ACTIVITY Vehicle SB - fuse assignments SBE - Seat occupancy detector/sensor SBFH - Seat module, passenger-side rear SBSL - Satellite, B-pillar left SBSR - Satellite, B-pillar right SBT - SI techniques/ tech reference information (in TIS) SCA - Soft Close Automatic/Actuator SD - sliding roof (from ETK) SD - silencer/ muffler (from ETK) SE - Special Equipment (from ETK) SES - voice recognition System SFAH - Seat module, driver's side rear SFZ - Satellite, vehicle center SG - control unit SGS - Seat integrated belt System SHD - sliding/ lifting roof (from ETK) SHD - Sunroof module (also SHDM) SI - Service Information (in TIS) SIA - Service Interval system (ver. I, II, III, IV, etc.) SII - Service Interval Indicator SIL - SILicon (from ETK) SIM - Safety Information Module SINE - Siren/tilt sensor SKD - Steel sliding roof (from ETK) SKHD - Steel sliding/ lifting roof (from ETK) SM - Seat Module SM/SPM - Seat/Mirror Memory SMBF - Seat Module, passenger side SMFA - Seat Module, driver's side SMG - Sequential Manual Gearbox SP - Schematic SRA - headlight/fog light cleaning SRS - Supplementary Restraint System SSD - Steel sliding roof (from ETK) SSH - Seat Satellite, rear seat ST - connector views Steptronic - transmission shift control STVL - Satellite, left front door STVR - Satellite, right front door SVS - Speech processing System SWR - headlamp cleaning system (from ETK) SWZ - Special tool listings (in TIS) SZL - Switch center, steering column SZM - central switch center Module TAGE - door handle Electronics TCM - Transmission Control Module TD - engine speed signal (ignition pulse) TD - Technical Data (in TIS) TE - fuel evaporation control TEL - TELephone control unit TEV - evaporative purge control THZ - Tandem master cylinder (from ETK) ti - Injector "on" Time (duration) TIS - Technical Information System TL - part throttle / load signal TLEV - Transitional Low Emission Vehicle TMBFT - door Module, passenger side TMBFTH - door Module, passenger side rear TMFAT - door Module, driver's side TMFATH - door Module, driver's side rear TP - Tandem Pump (from ETK) TPS - Throttle Position Switch/Sensor TR - engine speed signal (rpm) TR - TRansistor (from ETK) TRG - fuel level sensor (from ETK) TRI - Technical Reference Information (also SBT) TRS - battery isolation Switch TSD - Torsional vibration dampener (from ETK) TSH - door lock Heating TSZI - Transistorized coil Ignition system (from ETK) TU - Technical Update (as in M50tu) TXD - Transmitting Diagnosis line U-batt - Battery voltage U-vers - supply voltage UERSS - rollover bar (from ETK) URS - rollover protection System USIS - Ultrasonic passenger compartment Sensor V - "front" (Vorn) V - vehicle road speed VA - front Axle (from ETK) VAT - front axle support (from ETK) VANOS - Variable camshaft timing VEP - distributor-type injection Pump (from ETK) VID - VIDeo module VL - full load (wide open throttle) VSD - front muffler (from ETK) VVT – Valve tronic WBG - hazard warning switch (from ETK) WIM - Wiper control Module WK - torque converter lock-up clutch WSS – Wind Shield (from ETK) WT – Valve tronic control unit Z - "central" (Zentrum) ZAB - ignition fade-out (reduction) ZAE - central Airbag Electronics ZAS - ignition starter switch (from ETK) ZGM - central Gateway Module ZK - cylinder head (from ETK) ZKE - central body Electronics ZKH - cylinder head cover (from ETK) ZMS - dual-Mass flywheel (from ETK) ZV - central locking system ZS - central lock (from ETK) ZSD - center muffler (from ETK) ZV - central locking system (from ETK) ZVM - central locking Module ZWD - idle control valve 
MODELS LINKS Language BMW tightening torque values: (173 KB, 136 pages) E32 general here English         
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Advanced BMW ABS hints and tips here English
MODELS LINKS Language  ETK Great parts diagrams: BMWFANS E32: here RealOEM: has all models E32: here Engine compartment overview 735:  E32: 735 here English Burglar Alarm/DWA II E31: here English  Seat & Mirror Memory Training Reference Book (1.04MB PDF) E32: here English  On-Board Computer IV/III Training Reference Book (1.6 MB PDF) E32: here English  M70 Light Alloy Engine Training Course Material (11.7 MB PDF) E32: here English  M70 Engine Technical Description (886 KB PDF) E32: here English  M70 Engine Repair Info  (5.8 MB PDF)  E32: here English  M70 DME Info (462 KB PDF) E32: here English  Instrument Cluster &  Check Control Training Reference Book E32: here English  DWA II (Burglar Alarm) Training Reference Book (2.34 MB PDF) E32: here English Diagnostic Module Training Reference Book (1.7 MB PDF) E32: here English  E32 Electric Troubleshooting Manual, 09/90-08/91 Production(20.38 MB PDF) E32: here English M70 Engine details: lots of spec' details/links E32: below English M70B50 Engine Details  (jump to top) Source: http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/index.htm The M70B50 engine should have a compression of 10-12 Bar = 142-170 psi important is about the same pressure for each cylinder. Design 60 degree V12 cylinder bore mm (in.) 84 (3.307) stroke mm (in.) 75 (2.953) effective displacement cm3 (in.3) 4988 (304) compression ratio 8.8:1 power to DIN 70 020 kW 220 at engine speed rpm 5.200 max engine speed rpm 6.000 max constant speed rpm 5.900 idle speed rpm 700 +/- 50 max torque Nm (ft. lbs.) 450 (325) at engine speed rpm 4.100 http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247106.jpg determining oil consumption http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247107.jpg cylinder bore data http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247108.jpg cylinder head machining limit http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247109.jpg valve seat data http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247110.jpg crankshaft and bearing data http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247111.jpg http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247112.jpg http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247113.jpg http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247114.jpg flywheel data http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247115.jpg connecting rods and bearings http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247116.jpg pistons http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247117.jpg piston rings http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247118.jpg camshaft http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247119.jpg valves http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247120.jpg oil supply http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247121.jpg oil change volume with oil filter 7.5 ltr. 7.9 qts. without oil filter 6.5 ltr. 6.9 qts. additionally for drained oil cooler + oil cooler hoses after repair 1.0 ltr 2.1 pts. oil pressure http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247122.jpg tandem rotor type oil pump oil pressure at idle speed 0.5-2.0 bar, 7-28 psi at max speed 4.0 bar, 57 psi fan clutch switching-on temperature 95 +/- 4 dregee C., 203 +/-7 degree F. switching-off temperature 60 degree C., 140 degree F. fan diameter 460 mm, 18.110 in. number of fan plates 11 bearing tilt clearance at 156 mm (6.142 ") dia. =/- 0.65 mm, 0.025 in. thermostat openinh temperature (stamped in thermostat) 80 degree C, 176 degree F. http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/247en/images/247123.jpg Print the sheets out as long as they are available Source: http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/index.htm
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language IHKA Klimaautomatik, 53 Seiten: 53 page PDF E32 here German IHKA thermistor:  resistance and part numbers E32: below English       IHKA thermistor  (jump to top)Room temperature thermistorGlass bead NTC G540 thermistor,10k RS Stock No. 528-8558 Manufacturer EPCOS Manufacturers Part No. B57540G0103J Catalogue page 2 - 3587 1 £3.99 If the thermistor is working well, you should get these resistance readings:Deg C    Rmin    Rmean    Rmax (kΩ)-30        141.61    177.01    212.41-20        81.19       98.28    115.42-10        48.04       56.34     64.650           29.27       33.26     37.3510        18.55        20.23     21.8220        11.85        12.58     13.2830        7.62           7.89        8.3740        4.93           5.17        5.44    I suggest you download and check through the definitive IHKA manual here (in German  klimaautomatik.pdf)These resistance values were taken from page 16.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language diff.ratios, spark plug conditions/specs, oil capacities, engine specs:  E32?? commercial VINES English Various Bosch parts    commercial BOSCH       Bosch technical files (jump to top) Alternators and Starters ChargingSystems.pdf (530KB) Alternators and Starters StartingSystems.pdf (517KB) Cabin Air Filters Cabin Air Filter Installation (1.2MB) Oxygen Sensors OxygenSensorInstall.pdf (551KB) Oxygen Sensors DamagedO2SensorFaces.pdf (551KB) Oxygen Sensors O2ThimbleDiagram.pdf (530KB) Oxygen Sensors PlanarSensorDiagram.pdf (525KB) Oxygen Sensors WidebandSensorDiagram.pdf (565KB) Oxygen Sensors Chart of Emission Changes Based on Air/Fuel Ratio (530KB) Oxygen Sensors Diagram of the Posi-Lock® Connectors (574 KB) Spark Plugs Racing Demands of Spark Plugs (558 KB) Spark Plugs SparkPlugFaces.pdf (665KB) Spark Plugs Diagram of Proper Torquing (994KB) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Gap Illustrations (512KB) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Designation Codes (2MB) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Temperature Curves/Heat Range (773KB) Spark Plug Wire Sets Spark Plug Wire Set Installation Manual (525KB) Spark Plug Wire Sets Damage Caused by Improper Installation of Wire Sets (568KB) Wiper Blades Example of Worn Wiper Blades (695KB) Wiper Blades DirectConnect System (607KB) Wiper Blades Diagram of Internal Metal Tension Spring (537KB) Alternators and Starters ChargingSystems.pdf (530KB) Alternators and Starters StartingSystems.pdf (517KB) Cabin Air Filters Cabin Air Filter Installation (1.2MB) Oxygen Sensors OxygenSensorInstall.pdf (551KB) Oxygen Sensors DamagedO2SensorFaces.pdf (551KB) Oxygen Sensors O2ThimbleDiagram.pdf (530KB) Oxygen Sensors PlanarSensorDiagram.pdf (525KB) Oxygen Sensors WidebandSensorDiagram.pdf (565KB) Oxygen Sensors Chart of Emission Changes Based on Air/Fuel Ratio (530KB) Oxygen Sensors Diagram of the Posi-Lock® Connectors (574 KB) Spark Plugs Racing Demands of Spark Plugs (558 KB) Spark Plugs SparkPlugFaces.pdf (665KB) Spark Plugs Diagram of Proper Torquing (994KB) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Gap Illustrations (512KB) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Designation Codes (2MB) Spark Plugs Spark Plug Temperature Curves/Heat Range (773KB) Spark Plug Wire Sets Spark Plug Wire Set Installation Manual (525KB) Spark Plug Wire Sets Damage Caused by Improper Installation of Wire Sets (568KB) Wiper Blades Example of Worn Wiper Blades (695KB) Wiper Blades DirectConnect System (607KB) Wiper Blades Diagram of Internal Metal Tension Spring (537KB)
Code Name LocationDetails A3 LKM Light Control Module Front Power Distribution Box A4  CCM Check Control Module Front Power Distribution Box K1  Starter relay Front Power Distribution Box K2  Horn Relay Front Power Distribution Box K3Unloader KLR Front Power Distribution BoxK4Blower Relay Front Power Distribution BoxK5Washer Pump Front Power Distribution BoxK7Mustard Relay Parking Light Relay/monitor Front Power Distribution BoxDiffers with LKM-B and LKM-L typeK8Front Defogger Water Pump Relay Front Power Distribution BoxK9Unloader KL15 Front Power Distribution BoxK10ABS Relay Front Power Distribution BoxK16Hazard Flasher Relay Front Power Distribution BoxN17Crash control Unit Front Power Distribution Box      Front Power Distribution Box - behind front left shock mount  (jump to top)
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Setting E32 OBC Codes: E32: here English M.O.S.T  und CANoe Bus-SystemE32??Commercial -VectorGerman ECU pin identification 750 M70, 1988-90 :    E32: here List of  Fault Codes  E32: below Stomp test  E32: below ZKE Zentrale Karosserie-Elektronik  -  Central body electronic  large PDFVery useful manual - what does what E32:hereGerman FAULT CODES  (return to top) To erase the fault code memory, first make sure that the fault code 1000 (short blink and light goes out for a long period) is present, then depress the throttle fully for at least 10 seconds. Reactivate the fault code memory as described below and check for the 1444 code (no faults stored). 1) Turn the ignition switch to the 'engine run' position. 2) Depress the gas pedal to the floor 5 times. (bank1 for M70) 2-1) Depress the gas pedal to the floor 6 times. (bank2 for M70) The CHECK ENGINE light will blink out the FAULT CODES starting with the lowest number first. These FAULT CODES consist of 4 digits each separated by a short pause (ie. blink pause blink blink pause blink pause blink translates as 1 2  1 1). full PDF file of process here Here are the fault codes (from Bentley): 1211: DME Control Module 1215:     Mass Air Flow 1216: Throttle potentiometer 1218: Output Stage Group 1 1219: Output Stage Group 2 1221: O2 Sensor 1 1212: O2 Sensor 2 1222: O2 lean/rich control stop 1213: O2 sensor 2 lean/rich c/s 1223: Coolant Temp Sensor 1224: Air Temp Sensor 1225: Knock sensor 1 1226: Knock Sensor 2 1227: Knock Sensor 3 1228: Knock Sensor 4 1231: Battery Voltage Monitor 1232: Idle Position Signal 1233: Wide Open Throttle Signal 1234: Speedometer A signal 1237: A/C cut-off 1242: A/C signal 1243: Crankshaft Position Sensor 1244: Camshaft Position Sensor 1245: Elect. Tranny control intervention 1247: Ignition Secondary Monitor 1251: Fuel injectors 1,3,5 1252: Fuel injectors 2,4,6 1251: Fuel Injector 1 1252: Fuel Injector 2 1253: Fuel Injector 3 1254: Fuel Injector 4 1255: Fuel Injector 5 1256: Fuel Injector 6 1257: Fuel Injector 7 1258: Fuel Injector 8 1261: Fuel Pump 1262: Idle Speed Control 1263: Evap. System 1264: O2 Sensor Heater 1265: Check Engine Lamp 1266: VANOS 1267: Air Pump 1271: Ignition Coil 1 1272: Ignition Coil 2 1273: Ignition Coil 3 1274: Ignition Coil 4 1275: Ignition Coil 5 1276: Ignition Coil 6 1277: Ignition Coil 7 1278: Ignition Coil 8 1281: DME Memory 1282: Fault Code Memory 1283: Fuel Injector Output Stage 1286: Knock Control test pulse 1000: End of faults 1444: No faults 1211: DME Control Module 1215:     Mass Air Flow 1216: Throttle potentiometer 1218: Output Stage Group 1 1219: Output Stage Group 2 1221: O2 Sensor 1 1212: O2 Sensor 2 1222: O2 lean/rich control stop 1213: O2 sensor 2 lean/rich c/s 1223: Coolant Temp Sensor 1224: Air Temp Sensor 1225: Knock sensor 1 1226: Knock Sensor 2 1227: Knock Sensor 3 1228: Knock Sensor 4 1231: Battery Voltage Monitor 1232: Idle Position Signal 1233: Wide Open Throttle Signal 1234: Speedometer A signal 1237: A/C cut-off 1242: A/C signal 1243: Crankshaft Position Sensor 1244: Camshaft Position Sensor 1245: Elect. Tranny control intervention 1247: Ignition Secondary Monitor 1251: Fuel injectors 1,3,5 1252: Fuel injectors 2,4,6 1251: Fuel Injector 1 1252: Fuel Injector 2 1253: Fuel Injector 3 1254: Fuel Injector 4 1255: Fuel Injector 5 1256: Fuel Injector 6 1257: Fuel Injector 7 1258: Fuel Injector 8 1261: Fuel Pump 1262: Idle Speed Control 1263: Evap. System 1264: O2 Sensor Heater 1265: Check Engine Lamp 1266: VANOS 1267: Air Pump 1271: Ignition Coil 1 1272: Ignition Coil 2 1273: Ignition Coil 3 1274: Ignition Coil 4 1275: Ignition Coil 5 1276: Ignition Coil 6 1277: Ignition Coil 7 1278: Ignition Coil 8 1281: DME Memory 1282: Fault Code Memory 1283: Fuel Injector Output Stage 1286: Knock Control test pulse 1000: End of faults 1444: No faults
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language IHKA and sword pinouts:  E32: below X1600 Pinouts and Plug image:  the way it should be E32: below X18 Pinouts and Plug image:  E32: below X19 Pinouts and Plug image:  E32: below X501 Pinouts and Plug image: OBC E32: below Full listing of ECU's for all BMW models: below  IHKA & Sword Pinouts (return to top)     X610 WS "A" 1-4 stepper motor fond area 5 heater sword 6 aux fan 7 rear window heater relais 8 climate control relais 10 NC 11 NC 12+F20 (30) 13+F20 (30) 14 - 17 stepper motors for air distribution (recirculation) 18 light switch LED 19 light switch LED 20 TXD 21 water valve left side 22 aux water pump relais K8 23 water valve right side 24 front window heating relais K8 25+F20 (30) 26+F20 (30)      X613  BL"C" 1= ground 2=ground 3= NC 4=temp feeler driver side 5= potentiometer blower motor 6= temp feeler in engine room 7=outer temo feeler 8= potentiometer temperatur driver side 9=NC 10+,11+, for stepper motors 12+F21 (15) 13+ F21 (15) 14= ground 15=ground 16= potentiometer+ feeler ground 17= potentiometer flappers 18 temp feeler left 19 starter (50) 20=potentiometer+feed 21 temp feeler inside 22 temp feeler reight side 23+ for stepper motors 24+for stepper motors 25+26 = F21 (15) 26+ F21 (15)     X611 GN "B" 1 to  14,15,16 2,3,4,5 mixing flap motor left 6,7,8,9 fresh air stepper motor outside 10 NC 11 NC 12 NC 13 NC 14, 15,16 with pin 1 legroom stepper motor left 17, 18, 19, 20 defrost flap stepper motor 21, 22, 23 fresh air stepper motor left 25 NC 26 NC     X614 GE "D" 1,2,3,4 legroom stepper motor right 5 MPX button 6 MPX button left 7 MPX defrost 8 MPX button right 9 speed signal 10 RDX 11 button rear window defogger/defroster 12 MPX button recirculation 13 MPX button aircon 14, 15, 16, 17 fresh air stepper motor right 18, 19, 20, 21 mixing flap stepper motor right 22 NC 23 NC 24 NC 25 NC 26 NC Plug is same as X501 X18 pinout (return to top) X1600: Plug for DME I  (1989 M70)  Pinout (return to top) this table is more complete -- eventually will show end to end circuit runs -- for now only the next termination is listed F = female,  M = male entries such as X1806- - are terminals, splices, or posts some pins have two wires connected - so there are two entries Type: Sv signal variable voltage, Sa signal variable current, Sp signal pulsed           Pc constant power, Ps switched power, Gc constant ground, Gs switched ground Plug - Pin Next Plug - Pin Wire dia Wire color Type Description X1600-F-01 X1806- - 2.5 SW Sp IGNITION PULSE &  FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL  X1600-F-02 X1620 2.5 BR Gc GROUND X1600-F-03 X1600-F-37 0.5 BR GN Ps SWITCHED POWER IN FROM MAIN RELAY X1600-F-03 X1537-F-07 0.5 BR GN GE POWER TO TCU X2000 X1600-F-04 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-05 X1818- - 0.5 BE GE WS EVAPORATOR PURGE X1600-F-06 X20-M-09 0.75 SW GE WS ENGINE SPEED TO INSTRUMENTS X1600-F-06 X1602-F-47 0.5 SW GE WS ENGINE SPEED INPUT X1600-F-07 X1610-F-06 0.5 GR BL GE AIR MASS LOAD SIGNAL X1600-F-08 X1612-F-01 0.5 SW CYLINDER ID X1600-F-09 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-10 X1523-M-01 0.5 GE GROUND, THRU OXY SENSOR X1600-F-11 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-12 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-13 X1871- - 0.5 SW GE WS DIAGNOSTIC LINK RXD X1600-F-14 X1810- - 1.5 BR GROUND X1600-F-15 X1909- - 0.5 GR GROUNDS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ! X1600-F-16 X1804- - 1.5 BR WS GE INJECTOR DRIVE X1600-F-17 X1801- - 1.5 BR GE WS INJECTOR DRIVE X1600-F-18 X1822- - 0.5 RT GE WS ALWAYS HOT FROM BATTERY THRU FUSIBLE LINK X1600-F-19 X1811- - 1.5 BR SHIELD GROUND X1600-F-20 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-21 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-22 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-23 X1609-F-04 0.5 BR SW GE OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER X1600-F-24 X1810- - 1.5 BR GROUND X1600-F-25 X1610-F-01 0.5 GR GE WS AIR FLOW BURN-OFF X1600-F-26 X1610-F-05 0.5 GR WS GE AIR FLOW METER GROUND X1600-F-27 X1601-F-27 5 GN GE WS SWITCHED SUPPLY X1600-F-27 X1827- - 1 GN GE WS SWITCHED SUPPLY X1600-F-28 X1523-M-03 0.5 SW OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL X1600-F-29 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-30 - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-31 X1612-F-02 0.5 GE CYLINDER ID X1600-F-32 X20-M-03 0.5 WS GE WS FUEL RATE SIGNAL X1600-F-33 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-34 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-35 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-36 X1605-F-04 0.5 BR GE WS MAIN RELAY CONTROL X1600-F-37 X1600-F-03 0.5 BR GN POWER TO X1600-F-03 X1600-F-37 X1820- - 1.5 RT BL GE POWER FROM MAIN RELAY CONTROL X1600-F-38 X20-M-08 0.5 GN GE WS ANTI THEFT X1600-F-38 X1601-F-38 0.5 GN GE WS DIAGNOTIC LINK X1600-F-39 X1873- - 1.5 GN BL DIAGNOSTIC LINK X1600-F-40 - - - - NO CONNECTION  (GROUNDED IN DME II) X1600-F-41 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-42 X1870- - 0.5 SW BR P/N SWITCH X1600-F-43 X1610-F-03 0.5 GR VI GE CO ADJUST X1600-F-44 X1616-F-02 0.5 GR GE WS INTAKE AIR TEMP X1600-F-45 X1622-F-01 0.5 BR RT GE COOLANT TEMP X1600-F-46 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-47 X1614-F-01 0.5 SW E SPEED SENSOR X1600-F-48 X1614-F-02 0.5 GE E SPEED SENSOR X1600-F-49 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-50 X69- - 0.5 GN SW GE DME I  TIMING CONTROL SIGNAL X1600-F-51 X1537-F-01 0.5 BR OR GE ECT X1600-F-52 X1602-F-06 0.5 VI GN GE CLOSED THROTTLE CONTROL X1600-F-53 X1602-F-05 0.5 VI GE WS FULL LOAD THROTTLE CONTROL X1600-F-54 X1537-F-03 0.5 BL GE WS ECT X1600-F-55 X1872- - 0.5 BL WS DIAGNOSTIC LINK TXD Plug - Pin Next Plug - Pin Wire dia Wire color Type Description X1600-F-01 X1806- - 2.5 SW Sp IGNITION PULSE &  FUEL PUMP RELAY CONTROL  X1600-F-02 X1620 2.5 BR Gc GROUND X1600-F-03 X1600-F-37 0.5 BR GN Ps SWITCHED POWER IN FROM MAIN RELAY X1600-F-03 X1537-F-07 0.5 BR GN GE POWER TO TCU X2000 X1600-F-04 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-05 X1818- - 0.5 BE GE WS EVAPORATOR PURGE X1600-F-06 X20-M-09 0.75 SW GE WS ENGINE SPEED TO INSTRUMENTS X1600-F-06 X1602-F-47 0.5 SW GE WS ENGINE SPEED INPUT X1600-F-07 X1610-F-06 0.5 GR BL GE AIR MASS LOAD SIGNAL X1600-F-08 X1612-F-01 0.5 SW CYLINDER ID X1600-F-09 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-10 X1523-M-01 0.5 GE GROUND, THRU OXY SENSOR X1600-F-11 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-12 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-13 X1871- - 0.5 SW GE WS DIAGNOSTIC LINK RXD X1600-F-14 X1810- - 1.5 BR GROUND X1600-F-15 X1909- - 0.5 GR GROUNDS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT ! X1600-F-16 X1804- - 1.5 BR WS GE INJECTOR DRIVE X1600-F-17 X1801- - 1.5 BR GE WS INJECTOR DRIVE X1600-F-18 X1822- - 0.5 RT GE WS ALWAYS HOT FROM BATTERY THRU FUSIBLE LINK X1600-F-19 X1811- - 1.5 BR SHIELD GROUND X1600-F-20 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-21 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-22 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-23 X1609-F-04 0.5 BR SW GE OXYGEN SENSOR HEATER X1600-F-24 X1810- - 1.5 BR GROUND X1600-F-25 X1610-F-01 0.5 GR GE WS AIR FLOW BURN-OFF X1600-F-26 X1610-F-05 0.5 GR WS GE AIR FLOW METER GROUND X1600-F-27 X1601-F-27 5 GN GE WS SWITCHED SUPPLY X1600-F-27 X1827- - 1 GN GE WS SWITCHED SUPPLY X1600-F-28 X1523-M-03 0.5 SW OXYGEN SENSOR SIGNAL X1600-F-29 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-30 - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-31 X1612-F-02 0.5 GE CYLINDER ID X1600-F-32 X20-M-03 0.5 WS GE WS FUEL RATE SIGNAL X1600-F-33 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-34 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-35 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-36 X1605-F-04 0.5 BR GE WS MAIN RELAY CONTROL X1600-F-37 X1600-F-03 0.5 BR GN POWER TO X1600-F-03 X1600-F-37 X1820- - 1.5 RT BL GE POWER FROM MAIN RELAY CONTROL X1600-F-38 X20-M-08 0.5 GN GE WS ANTI THEFT X1600-F-38 X1601-F-38 0.5 GN GE WS DIAGNOTIC LINK X1600-F-39 X1873- - 1.5 GN BL DIAGNOSTIC LINK X1600-F-40 - - - - NO CONNECTION  (GROUNDED IN DME II) X1600-F-41 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-42 X1870- - 0.5 SW BR P/N SWITCH X1600-F-43 X1610-F-03 0.5 GR VI GE CO ADJUST X1600-F-44 X1616-F-02 0.5 GR GE WS INTAKE AIR TEMP X1600-F-45 X1622-F-01 0.5 BR RT GE COOLANT TEMP X1600-F-46 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-47 X1614-F-01 0.5 SW E SPEED SENSOR X1600-F-48 X1614-F-02 0.5 GE E SPEED SENSOR X1600-F-49 - - - - NO CONNECTION X1600-F-50 X69- - 0.5 GN SW GE DME I  TIMING CONTROL SIGNAL X1600-F-51 X1537-F-01 0.5 BR OR GE ECT X1600-F-52 X1602-F-06 0.5 VI GN GE CLOSED THROTTLE CONTROL X1600-F-53 X1602-F-05 0.5 VI GE WS FULL LOAD THROTTLE CONTROL X1600-F-54 X1537-F-03 0.5 BL GE WS ECT X1600-F-55 X1872- - 0.5 BL WS DIAGNOSTIC LINK TXD Model Chassis Engine type Year Bosch part No. Motronic version 318is E30 M42/B18 90-91 0 261 200 175 Bosch Motronic M1.7 318i/is E36 M42disa/B18 92-12/93 0 261 200 990 Bosch Motronic M1.7 318i/is E36 M42disaII/B18 1/94-12/94 0 261 203 282 Bosch Motronic M1.7.2 318i/is/Ti E36 M42/B18 DISA2 1/95--> 0 261 203 282 Bosch Motronic M1.7.2 w/ EWS-II 318i/is/Ti E36 M42/B18 DISA2 1/95--> 0 261 203 357 Bosch Motronic M1.7.2 w/ EWS-II 318i/is/Ti E36 M44/B19 96--> 0 261 203 667 Bosch Motronic M5.2 (OBD-II) Z3 E36 1.8L 8V (M44/B18) 96--> ?? Bosch Motronic M1.7.3 Z3 E36 M44/B19 96--> 0 261 203 667 Bosch Motronic M5.2 (OBD-II) 320i E30 M20/B20 (129hp) 87-91 0 261 200 152 Bosch Motronic M1.1 320i E30 M20/B20 (129hp) 87-91 0 261 200 172 Bosch Motronic M1.3 320iS E30 S14/B20 (192hp) 87-89 0 261 200 087 Bosch Motronic ML3.1 325e/es E30 M20/B27 (122hp) 9/84-12/86 0 261 200 027 Bosch Motronic Basic M1.0 325e/es E30 M20/B27 (127hp) 1/87-9/87 0 261 200 154 Bosch Motronic M1.1 325i/ECE E30 M20/B25 (171hp) 85-87 0 261 200 081 Bosch Motronic M1.0 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 153 Bosch Motronic M1.1 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 173 Bosch Motronic M1.3 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 351 Bosch Motronic M1.3 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 380 Bosch Motronic M1.3 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 382 Bosch Motronic M1.3 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 524 Bosch Motronic M1.3 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 525 Bosch Motronic M1.3 325i/is/iX E30 M20/B25 (170hp) 87-91 0 261 200 526 Bosch Motronic M1.3 M3 E30 S14/B23 (195hp) 86-08/89 0 261 200 071 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Motorsport M3 E30 S14/B23 (215hp) 09/89-90 0 261 200 091 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Motorsport M3 - Evo2 E30 S14/B23 (220hp) 88 0 261 200 090 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Motorsport M3 - Evo3 E30 S14/B25 (238hp) 01/90-05/90 0 261 200 092 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Motorsport 325i/is E36 M50/B25 thru 8/91 0 261 200 403 Bosch Motronic M3.1 325i/is E36 M50/B25 9/91-8/92 0 261 200 402 Bosch Motronic M3.1 325i/is/ic E36 M50tu/B25 9/92-12/94 0 261 200 413 Bosch Motronic M3.3.1 325i/is/ic E36 M50tu/B25 1/95--> 0 261 200 413 Bosch Motronic M3.3.1 w/ EWS-II 328i E36 M52/B28 96--> ?? Bosch Motronic MS41.1 (OBD-II) M3 - Euro E36 S50/B30 93-95 0 261 203 075 Bosch Motronic M3.3 M3 E36 S50us/B30 thru 12/94 0 261 203 506 Bosch Motronic M3.3.1 M3 E36 S50us/B30 1/95--> 0 261 200 413 Bosch Motronic M3.3.1 w/ EWS-II M3 E36 S50us/B32 96--> ?? Bosch Motronic MS41.1 (OBD-II) 520i E34 M20/B20 (129hp) 87-90 0 261 200 172 Bosch Motronic M1.3 525i E34 M20/B25 87-90 0 261 200 173 Bosch Motronic M1.3 525i E34 M20/B25 87-90 0 261 200 524 Bosch Motronic M1.3 525i E34 M50/B25 thru 8/91 0 261 200 405 Bosch Motronic M3.1 525i/iT E34 M50/B25 9/91-1/92 0 261 200 403 Bosch Motronic M3.1 525i/iT E34 M50/B25 2/92-93 0 261 200 402 Bosch Motronic M3.1 525i/iT E34 M50tu/B25 93-12/94 0 261 200 413 Bosch Motronic M3.3.1 525i/iT E34 M50tu/B25 1/95--> 0 261 200 413 Bosch Motronic M3.3.1 w/ EWS-II 528i E39 M52/B28 96--> ?? Bosch Motronic MS41.1 (OBD-II) 533i E28 M30/B32 84 0 261 200 008 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Basic 528e E28 M20/B27 9/84-12/86 0 261 200 027 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Basic 528e E28 M20/B27 01/87-09/87 0 261 200 154 Bosch Motronic M1.1 535i/is E28 M30/B34 85-87 0 261 200 059 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Adaptive (24 pin) 535i/is E28 M30/B34 88 0 261 200 059 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Adaptive (28 pin) 535i/is E28 M30/B34 (218hp) 85-87 0 261 200 061 Bosch Motronic M1.0 535i E34 M30/B35 89-92 0 261 200 179 Bosch Motronic M1.3 530i E34 M60/B30 3/93-8/94 0 261 200 404 Bosch Motronic M3.3 530i E34 M60/B30 9/94-12/94 0 261 200 404 Bosch Motronic M3.3 w/ air pump 530i E34 M60/B30 1/95-4/94 0 261 203 484 Bosch Motronic M3.3 w/ EWS-II 540i E34 M60/B40 thru 12/94 0 261 200 404 Bosch Motronic M3.3 540i E34 M60/B40 1/95--> 0 261 203 484 Bosch Motronic M3.3 w/ EWS-II 540i E39 M62/B44 96--> 0 261 203 474 Bosch Motronic M5.2 (OBD-II) M5/M635CSI E28/E24 S38/B35 (260hp kat) 87-88 0 261 200 079 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Motorsport M5/M635CSI E28/E24 M88 (286hp) 84-87 0 261 200 055 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Motorsport M5 E34 S38/B36 (315hp) 91--> 0 261 200 350 Bosch Motronic M1.2 633csi E24 M30/B32 84 0 261 200 008 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Basic 635csi E24 M30/B34 85-87 0 261 200 059 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Adaptive 635csi E24 M30/B35 86-88 0 261 200 150 Bosch Motronic M1.1 635csi E24 M30/B35 89 0 261 200 179 Bosch Motronic M1.3 730i E32 M30/B30 89-92 0 261 200 178 Bosch Motronic M1.3 733i E23 M30/B32 84 0 261 200 008 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Basic 735i E23 M30/B35 09/80-09/82 0 261 200 001 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Basic 735i E23 M30/B34 (218hp) 84-87 0 261 200 011 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Adaptive 735i E23 M30/B34 84-87 0 261 200 059 Bosch Motronic M1.0 Adaptive 735i/iL E32 M30/B35 86-88 0 261 200 150 Bosch Motronic M1.1 735i/iL E32 M30/B35 (211hp) 89-92 0 261 200 179 Bosch Motronic M1.3 740i/iL E32 M60/B40 9/92-4/94 0 261 200 404 Bosch Motronic M3.3 740i/iL E38 M60/B40 1/95--> 0 261 203 484 Bosch Motronic M3.3 w/ EWS-II 740i/IL E38 M62/B44 96--> 0 261 203 474 Bosch Motronic M5.2 (OBD-II) 745i E23 M102/B34 (252hp) 83--86> 0 261 200 013 Bosch Motronic M1.0 750iL E32 M70/B50 88-90 0 261 200 156 Bosch Motronic M1.2 750iL E32 M70/B50 91--> 0 261 200 352 Bosch Motronic M1.7 750iL E38 M73/B54 9/94--> 0 261 203 473 Bosch Motronic M5.2 (OBD-II) 840i E31 M60/B40 9/93-12/94 0 261 200 404 Bosch Motronic M3.3 840i E31 M60/B40 1/95--> 0 261 203 484 Bosch Motronic M3.3 w/ EWS-II 840i E31 M62/B44 96--> 0 261 203 474 Bosch Motronic M5.2 (OBD-II) 850i E31 M70/B50 91--> 0 261 200 352 Bosch Motronic M1.7 535i/Alpina B9 E28 M30/B34 (245hp) 85-87 0 261 200 011 M1.0 Alpina B7Turbo E24 M30 (300hp) 85-87 0 261 200 043 M1.0 Alpina B7 Turbo Coupe E24 M30 (330hp) 85-87 0 261 200 043 M1.0 Alpina B7 Turbo Kat. E24 M30 (320hp) 85-87 0 261 200 079 M1.0 Alpina B10 Biturbo E34 M30 (360hp) 89-94 0 261 200 079 M1.1      (return to top)
MODELS LINKS Language Fluids/Oil - Consistency and Colors for Diagnosis -- gives causes general text below English           LIGHT BROWN OR BLACK STAINS - MEDIUM CONSISTENCY Ah, you're thinking, "That's easy ... engine oil!" You're right, we'll  start simple and stay simple -- we're all familiar with this the brown/blackish color of motor oil. Because of the oil system has many gaskets, lots of  heat (weakens seals and gaskets over time), and lots of pressure,  engine oil tends to be a frequent visitor. While a little oil seepage is not a  problem, any drips should be investigated. Pay particular attention to any lines, filters, or coolers external to the engine. Replacing an O-ring or  pressure line that is starting to leak is a wise move, as it offers peace of mind. Engine gaskets that leak need careful assessment -- they are not likely to fail completely and may be damn difficult to replace in-situ. Note: Did  you add new oil to the engine recently? Sometimes a simple mistake can lead to oil spills appearing later. Oil leaks that have continued for some time should lead to the buildup of dirt -- can you see any on your block or  sump? REDDISH, LIGHT BROWN OR BLACK - THINNER OR THICKER CONSISTENCY Stains, drips or puddles that look similar to engine oil, but are thicker  to touch and located near the center of the car, are usually from the transmission. While automatic transmissions used to use a reddish fluid thinner than engine oil, recent  units  employ a reddish fluid that is thicker. Note: overfilling the transmission with fluid seems to be a  common source of leaks -- check the temperature/ volume relationship.  Actual  leaks are most likely to come from the clutch side shaft seal or the output  shaft seal. Leaks are also possible from the pan gasket. Some engines (M70) have external coolers with connection lines and these can also leak. REDDISH OR LIGHT BROWN - THIN CONSISTENCY Sound like a familiar fluid? It should. If your car is equipped with power steering, then it has a fluid in the steering system that is either identical or similar to your car's automatic transmission fluid. Luckily  the power steering system is localized so any leaks should be easy to spot. CLEAR, SLIGHTLY BROWN AND SLICK - MEDIUM CONSISTENCY This is that critical fluid for your brake hydraulic system. When brake fluid is new, it is usually either clear (like mineral oil) or tinted slightly brown. But after time and with the accumulation of dust, rust particles and other contaminants, it can turn entirely brown. What you  need to remember is that brake fluid is characteristically slippery to the  touch -- more so than engine oil or automatic transmission fluid. DIFFERENTIAL FLUID - THICK CONSISTENCY Your car's differential uses a fluid that is similar to the standard transmission fluid. The key to distinguishing the fluid origin is where is drips. If it drips from the rear of your car, then the chances are that it is from the differential. Since this fluid is not pressurized, leaks indicate that something is significantly loose. YELLOW, GREEN PINK AND SLIMY - THIN CONSISTENCY Here it is: coolant. Slimy to the touch and one of the easiest fluids to identify, coolants come in a range of bright colors. Older cars simply dumped the coolant on the road or driveway when the engine got too hot. Of course, overheating maybe a sign of some other problem. Today's cars have closed systems that capture and recycle any blow-off. So, if you have a  late model car you shouldn't ever see coolant on your driveway or on your  carpet. If you do, it's a sign of potential trouble (e.g., leaky water pump or hoses). CLEAR, SHINY LIQUID - VERY THIN CONSISTENCY ... LIKE WATER? If you ever come back to your car in your driveway or in a shopping center parking lot and see a puddle of clear water under the front and on the passenger side, you don't need to panic. But, if you've been running your car's air conditioner, then the spot is most likely water that has  condensed on the air conditioning hardware and is harmless. The air conditioner has  a water drain tube to drip this innocuous condensed water out to the road -- and there's no problem. If all fluids were only so innocent!
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language -ZF-Automatik-Stücklisten-  5HP18 - 5HP24 - 5HP30  pdf files here GermanEuropean Transmissions.com Bulletin BMWtechlib  -- many many fileshereEnglishZF 4HP22 -24 Solenoid test  -- small PDFhereEnglish
MODELS LINKS Language E34 comparison to E28  Rickard E34: here English M70 V12 engine information  PDF file E32: here English M60 engine technical specs: PDF file  E32: here English VIN DECODER  below History & cutaway image of M70 engine  E32: here German Paint codes -- complete rangebelowInterior colors  below   Understand your VIN number   (jump to top)Online VIN decoder is hereBackground and information Vehicle identification numbers (also called VINs) are critical pieces of information for identifying the exact BMW you have and the engine that was put into it when it was built. A car‘s vehicle identification number (VIN) is the automotive equivalent of human DNA. History of the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) In the mid 1950s, American automobile manufacturers began stamping and casting identifying numbers on cars and their parts. The obvious purpose was to give an accurate description of the vehicle as mass production numbers were starting to climb to very significant numbers. Research has shown that early VINs came in all sorts of variations, depending on the car manufacturer. In the early 1980s, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration began requiring that all road vehicles contain a 17-character VIN. This established the fixed VIN system for major vehicle manufacturers as it is known today and thus, created a unique "DNA" style number for each unique vehicle that rolled off the assembly line. The Vehicle Identification Number was "officially" described in ISO Standard 3779 in February 1977 and last revised in 1983. Explanation of Unique Identifiers Within Your BMW's VIN Vehicle identification numbers are standardized - all contain 17 characters. VIN characters may be capital letters A through Z and numbers 1 through 0; however, the letters I, O and Q are never used in order to avoid mistakes of misreading. No signs or spaces are allowed in the VIN. The position of each letter or number in the VIN code reveals important information about where and when your BMW was made, the type of engine it has, the model or series of the car, various equipment/attributes and its production sequence. Each character or digit has a particular purpose as follows: 1st Character: The 1st character of your BMW's vehicle identification number identifies the country where it was manufactured. 3rd Character: The 3rd character in your BMW's vehicle identification number indicates the vehicle type or manufacturing division. This varies among car makes and models. 4th - 8th Character: The 4th through 8th characters in your BMW's VIN reveals its features/attributes, such as body style, engine type, model, series, etc. Again, this varies widely among car makes, models and equipment. 9th Character: The 9th character in your BMW's vehicle identification number is a VIN accuracy check digit, verifying the previous numbers within the VIN. This check digit is a single number or letter "X" used to verify the accuracy of the transcription of the vehicle identification number. There is a precise method for obtaining the check digit; however, it is not relevant to our discussion here. Suffice to say that after all other characters in the VIN have been determined by the manufacturer, the check digit is calculated by carrying out a mathematical computation. The correct numeric remainder - zero through nine (0-9) will appear. However, if the remainder is 10 the letter "X" is used to designate the check digit value. 10th Character: The 10th character in your BMW's VIN tells you the model year. (This varies somewhat among car manufacturers - see the chart in the "Here's How to Find Your Car's VIN" section below for specific locations by car make.) 11th Character: The 11th character in your BMW's vehicle identification number reveals the assembly plant for the vehicle. 12th - 17th Character: The 12th through the 17th character in your BMW's VIN indicate the sequence of the vehicle for production as it rolled off the manufacturer's assembly line. The last four characters are always numeric. These last six characters are perhaps the most critical portion of the VIN for most European cars. Because of mid-year production changes by car makers, these can be extremely important in identifying the proper part numbers for ignition, fuel, emission and engine components. These types of parts are often listed with the caveat that they fit vehicles up to a particular VIN or before/after a particular VIN sequence. Here's How to Find Your BMW's VIN The table below will help you locate your BMW's unique DNA - its unique vehicle identification number. VINs are normally located in several locations on a car, but the most common places are: - On the door frame/door post of the front doors (usually driver's but sometimes passenger's) - On the dash near the windshield - On the engine itself (machined pad on front of engine) - On the car's firewall - In the left-hand inner wheel arch - On the steering wheel/steering column - On the radiator support bracket - On your car's title, registration, guarantee/maintenance book or on the declarations page of your auto insurance policy The following chart gives further information (by car line) on both the location of the VIN plate and which character in your VIN represents your year of production and specific engine. We have limited the listings to only import cars since those are the car lines in which Autohaus specializes. Those shown in blue are car makes for which we have extensive parts inventories. BMW All Left side of dash (thru windshield) Right inner fender. Online VIN Decoders To Help You If you'd like to have your VIN "decoded" for you, there are several resources on the Internet that can be of assistance. By knowing your VIN, these resources can tell you some very specific information about your BMW that can help you in your search for the right repair parts: VIN Power: Input your email address and your BMW's VIN in the boxes and complete information on your unique car will be emailed to you. CarFax Vehicle History Reports: Enter your BMW's VIN in the box where it says, "Get started now with our FREE CarFax Record Check. Enter a VIN and click Search." You'll be provided online with several important pieces of information about your specific BMW's features. AnalogX VIN View: AnalogX VIN View is another free online VIN decoder that allows you to see the information about your BMW based on your car's vehicle identification number. VIN View supports decoding of any vehicle identification number that was issued after 1978. Just enter the 17-character VIN number and click decode. On the decoded page, you'll see your VIN again and the position of each character, then on the bottom portion you'll see what position and characters map to what information. Vehicle Identification Numbers: This is another good source for information in your car's VIN. Just select the car line(s) for which you're interested in seeing VIN explanations and you'll be transferred to site(s) that can help you in your decoding quest. BMW Paint Codes - Complete   (jump to top)BMW Paint Codes:BMW paint codes normally have three digits, and sometimes have a slash followed by a fourth digit. Paint code tags are normally placed under the hood and either on one of the strut towers or fender edges such as position one and two. The paint color code can also be located on the right side and slightly lower then the fender on the engine wall. The name of the car color is also on the same tag. I have seen them spelled out in both English and German. For a list of touch up paint colors for your BMW go here: These colors are available in touch up paint, spray paint, and ready to spray paint for larger quantities.000 Primer Primer Standard Grey 51 91 9 061 780001 Nevada Nevada Standard Brown002 Colorado Colorado Standard Orange003 Condorgelb Condor Yellow Standard Yellow004 Manila Manila Standard Ivory005 Tampico Tampico Standard Beige006 Sahara Sahara Standard Beige007 Hellelfenbein (Taxi) Light Ivory Standard Ivory 51 91 1 819 299008 Ceylon Ceylon Metallic Gold009 Sienabraun Siena Brown Metallic Brown012 Sierrabeige Sierra Beige Standard Brown013 Topasbraun Topas Brown Metallic Brown016 Iberischrot Iberian Red Standard Red018 Rubinrot Ruby Red Metallic Red020 Korall Coral Standard Red021 Malaga Malaga Standard Maroon022 Inka Inka Standard Orange023 Granada Granada Standard Red024 Verona Verona Standard Red025 Granatrot Granat Red Metallic Red027 Madeira Madeira Standard Maroon028 Phonix Phonix Standard Orange031 Rot Red Metallic Red035 Granatrot Garnet Red Metallic Red036 Riviera Riviera Standard Blue037 Fjord Fjord Blue Metallic Blue039 Pacific Pacific Blue Standard Blue040 Nachtblau midnight Blue Metallic Blue041 Atlantikblau Atlantic Blue Standard Blue042 Baikal Baikal Blue Metallic Blue044 Pastellblau Pastel Blue Standard Blue045 Arctisblau Arctic Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 851 635052 Hennarot Henna Red Standard Red 51 91 1 866 579053 Bordeauxrot Bordeaux Red Standard Red054 Ozeanblau Ocean Blue Standard Blue055 Anthrazitgrau Anthracite Grey Metallic Grey056 Derby Derby Standard Grey057 Polaris Polaris Silver Metallic Silver058 Bristol Bristol Standard Blue059 Caribe Caribe Standard Blue060 Polaris Polaris Metallic Silver 51 91 1 851 625062 Schilfgrun Reed Green Standard Green063 Amazonitgrun Amazon Green Metallic Green064 Turmalingrun Tourmaline Green Metallic Green065 Turkis Turquoise Green Metallic Green066 Florida Florida Standard Green068 Tundra Tundra Metallic Green070 Golf Golf Standard Yellow071 Agave Agave Green Standard Green072 Taiga Taiga Metallic Green073 Turf Pine Green Standard Green075 Resedagruen Reseda Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 848 491076 Amazonasgrun Amazon Green Standard Green078 Jadegrun Jade Green Standard Green079 Mintgrun Mint Green Standard Green083 Polizeweiss Police White Standard White 51 91 1 237 902084 Blau Blue Metallic Blue085 Chamonix Chamonix White Standard White 51 91 1 813 067086 Schwarz Black Standard Black 51 91 1 813 070087 Graphit Graphite Metallic Black 51 91 1 866 583094 Hellminzegruen Light Mint Green Standard Green097 Minzegruen Mint Green Standard Green115 Dolmitgrau Dolmit Grey Metallic Grey121 Mattschwartz Black Matte Standard Black127 Madison Madison Metallic Silver128 Gazellenbeige Gazelle Beige Standard Beige 51 91 1 930 081136 Alaskablau Alaska Blue Metallic Blue137 Perlmutt Mother of Pearl Metallic White138 Zinnoberrot Cinnabar Red Standard Red 51 91 1 930 082139 Bronzitbeig Bronze Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 1 907 208140 Biskayablau Biscay Blue Standard Blue141 Zederngrun Cedar Green Standard Green142 Sepiabraun Sepia Brown Standard Brown143 Kaschmir Cashmere Metallic Beige 51 91 1 872 270146 Alpinweiss Alpine White Standard White 51 91 1 880 835147 Safaribeige Safari Beige Standard Beige 51 91 1 880 834148 Koronagelb Korona Yellow Standard Yellow149 Saphirblau Sapphire Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 880 839151 Ascotgrau Ascot Grey Metallic Grey 51 91 1 880 837152 Zypressengrun Cypress Green Metallic Green153 Olivgrun Olive Green Metallic Green154 Brasilbraun Brazil Brown Metallic Brown155 Karneolrot Karnal Red Metallic Red157 Kastanienrot Chestnut Red Metallic Red162 Klassischschwartz Classic Black Metallic Black170 Bahamabeige Bahamas Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 1 907 209171 Opal Opal Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 900 736172 Karminrot Carmine Red Standard Red 51 91 1 930 083173 Lapisblau Lapis Blue Standard Blue 51 91 1 907 222174 Bajarot Baja Red Metallic Red176 Saturnblau Saturn Blue Standard Blue 51 91 1 930 084177 Achatgruen Agate Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 907 210178 Balticblau Baltic Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 900 737179 Acaiagrun Acaia Green Standard Green180 Basaltblau Basalt Blue Standard Blue181 Diamantschwarz Diamond Black Metallic Black 51 91 1 930 070182 Smaragdgruen Emerald Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 935 047183 Carribbeanblau Carribbean Blue Metallic Blue184 Delphin Dolphin Metallic Grey 51 91 1 907 211185 Cosmosblau Cosmos Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 930 068186 Diamantgrau Diamond Grey Metallic Grey187 Savannabeige Savanna Beige Standard Beige188 Platanengrun Platana Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 930 069189 Cirrusblau Cirrus Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 935 057194 Pustagrun Pubta Green Standard Green 51 91 1 907 225196 Zobelbraun Sable Brown Metallic Brown 51 91 1 930 071198 Royalblau Royal Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 935 067199 Burgundrot Burgundy Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 907 212203 Lachssilber Salmon Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 935 037204 Columbiansilber Columbian Silver Metallic Silver205 Malachitgruen Malachite Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 935 077207 Atlantisblau Atlantic Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 973 945212 Nerzbraun Mink Brown Metallic Brown 51 91 1 935 087214 Burgundrot II Burgundy Red II Metallic Red218 Alpinweiss II Alpine White Standard White 51 91 9 102 478219 Luxorbeige Luxor Beige Metallic Brown 51 91 1 935 097222 Marrakeschrot Marrakesh Red Standard Red224 Weinrot Vine Red Standard Red 51 91 1 973 947225 Bermudablau Bermuda Blue Metallic Blue228 Onyxschwarz Onyx Black Metallic Black229 Sebringgrau Sebring Grey Metallic Grey 51 91 1 052 113231 Mineralblau Mineral Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 973 948232 Stratosgrau Stratos Grey Metallic Grey235 Brilliantsilber Brilliant Silver Metallic Silver237 Granitsilber Granite Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 069239 Tabakbraun Tobacco Brown Metallic Brown241 Titanblau Titanic Blue Metallic Blue243 Nogarosilber Blue Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 112244 Sterlingsilber Sterling Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 9 061 827246 Topazrot-violett Topas Red-Violet Metallic Red247 Barbadosgrun Barbados Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 155249 Perlgruen Pearl Green Metallic Green250 Macaoblau Macao Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 111251 Toskanagrun Toskana Green Metallic Green252 Calypsorot Calypso Red Metallic Red 51 91 9 061 834253 Pur Blau Pure Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 102255 Neonblau Neon Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 136256 Tobagoblau Tobago Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 156257 Toprot Top Red Standard Red 51 91 9 061 673259 Brokatrot Brocade Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 074260 Magic Violett Magic Violet Metallic Purple 51 91 1 052 098262 Neongruen Neon Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 137263 Dunkelblau Dark Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 186264 Fungelb fun yellow Standard Yellow 51 91 9 061 672265 Weissalu White Aluminum Metallic White 51 91 2 323 168266 Lagunengruen Lagoon Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 054267 Dakar Gelb II Dakar Yellow Standard Yellow 51 91 1 052 199269 Arctisgrau Artic Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 250270 Konigblau King Blue Metallic Blue271 Urgruen Primal Green Metallic Green 51 91 9 061 670273 Islandgrun Island Green Metallic Green 51 91 9 061 855274 Mugellorot Mugello Red Standard Red 51 91 1 052 195275 Bostongruen Boston Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 214276 Avusblau Avus Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 146278 Traumschwartz Dream Black Metallic Black 51 91 9 061 671280 Gletscherblau Glacier Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 9 061 848281 Sienarot Sienna Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 222282 Samanabgeige Samana Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 1 052 254283 Daytonaviolett Daytona Violet Metallic Purple 51 91 1 052 147286 Cordobarot Cordoba Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 336287 Mauritiusblau Mauritius Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 055288 Moreagruen Morea Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 258289 Dunkelgruen Dark Green Standard Green 51 91 1 052 191290 Maledivenblau Maledavian Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 242294 Lazerblau Laser Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 9 061 841295 Samoablau Samoa Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 210296 Sumatragelb Sumatra Yellow Metallic Yellow 51 91 1 052 262297 Montrealblau Montreal Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 340299 Technoviolett Techno Violet Metallic Violet 51 91 1 052 360300 Alpinweiss Alpine White Standard White 51 91 1 052 274301 Kaschmirebeige Cashmere Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 1 052 079302 Madeiraviolett Maderia Violet Metallic Purple 51 91 1 052 380303 Cosmosschwarz Cosmos Black Metallic Black 51 91 1 052 304304 Violettschwarz Violet Black Standard Purple 51 91 1 052 344305 Petrol Mica Petrol Mica Metallic Grey 51 91 1 052 356306 Atlantablau Atlanta Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 476307 Dunkelgruen II Dark Green II Standard Green 51 91 1 052 278308 Brilliantrot Brilliant Red Standard Red 51 91 9 061 860309 Arctissilber Arctic Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 206310 Fjordgrau Fjord Grey Metallic Grey 51 91 1 052 234312 Brit-Racing-Green Brit Racing Green Standard Green 51911052545 Yes314 Hellrot Bright Red Standard Red 51 91 1 052 270315 Tizianrot Tizian Red Standard Red 51 91 1 052 060316 Violettrot Violet Red Standard Red 51 91 1 052 225317 Orientblau Orient Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 238318 Santorinblau Santorin Blue Standard Blue 51 91 2331 954319 Palmettogrun Palmetto Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 368321 Kobaltblau Cobalt Blue Standard Blue322 Nauticgruen Nautic Green Standard Green 51 91 9 061 864323 Mystikerrot Mystic Red Metallic Red324 Oxfordgruen Oxford Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 246326 Tuerkisgruen Turquoise Green Standard Green 51 91 1 052 473327 Santorinblau II Santorin Blue II Standard Blue 51911052548 Yes328 Violettrot II Violet Red II Standard Red 51 91 1 052 312329 Vulkangrau Vulcan Grey Standard Grey 51 91 1 052 064330 Sternformigblau Astral Blue Metallic Blue331 Mohavebraun Mohave Brown Metallic Brown 51 91 1 052 324334 Glaciergrun Glacier Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 372335 Estorilblau Estoril Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 402336 Agaischblau Aegean Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 549 Yes337 Dakargelb II Dakar Yellow II Standard Yellow 51 91 1 052 364338 Seidenblau Silk Blue Metallic Blue339 Aspensilbe Aspen Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 332341 Panamabraun Panama Brown Metallic Brown 51 91 1 052 406342 Graphite Graphite Metallic Grey343 Canyonrot Canyon Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 410346 Navarraviolett Navarra Violet Metallic Violet 51 91 1 052 328347 Shwartz Mica Black Mica Metallic Black 51 91 1 052 559 Yes348 Aubergine Aubergine Standard Red 51 91 1 052 414349 Eisblau Ice Blue Metallic Blue351 Kyalamiorange Kyalamiorange Standard Orange352 Limonit Lime Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 554 Yes353 Ascotgruen Ascot Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 320354 Titansilber Titanium Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 565355 Byzanz Byzantium Metallic Orange 51 91 1 052 422356 Vermontgrun Vermont Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 503357 Sierra Red Sierra Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 537358 Evergreen Evergreen Standard Green 51 91 1 052 540359 Mora Mora Metallic Purple 51 91 1 052 555 Yes360 Sorrentblau Sorrent Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 316362 Sienarot II Sienna Red II Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 568363 Biarritzblau Biarritz Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 507364 Topazblau Topaz Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 666365 Ziegelrot Brick Red Standard Red 51 91 1 052 642366 Imolarot Imola Red Standard Red367 Alaskablau Alaska Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 300 Yes369 Romanticrot Romantic Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 558372 Stahlblau Steel Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 571374 Nepalsilber Nepal Silver Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 308376 Lightgelb Light Yellow Metallic Yellow 51 91 1 052 669379 Velvetblau Velvet Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 563381 Lemans-Blau LeMans Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 0025 919386 Farngrun Fern Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 574389 Hell-elfenbein II Light Ivory Standard White 51 91 1 052 514390 Royalrot Royal Red Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 645392 Marrakeschrot II Marrakesh Red II Standard Red 51 51 2309 874393 Meergrun Sea Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 632395 Sundown Sundown Metallic Red 51 91 1 052 560 Yes397 Anthrazit Anthracite Metallic Black 51 91 1 052 648398 Kirunaviolett Kiruna Violet Metallic Purple 51 91 1 052 511399 Atlantis Atlantis Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 552 Yes400 Stahlgrau Steel Grey Metallic Grey 51 91 1 052 651402 Fashionrot 2 Fashion Red Standard Red 51 91 1 052 546 Yes405 Imolarot II Imola Red II Standard Red 51 91 1 052 629406 Orinoco Orinoco Metallic Grey 51 91 1 052 557 Yes408 Palmettogrun II Palmetto Green II Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 543411 Pearlbeige Pearl Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 1 052 654413 Fidschigrun Fiji Green Standard Green 51 91 1 052 547 Yes415 Hellrot II Bright Red II Metallic Red 51 91 0 006 913416 Carbonschwartz Carbon Black Metallic Black 51 91 1 052 660418 Impalabraun Impala Brown Metallic Brown 51 91 1 052 657419 Turkis Turquoise Metallic Green 51 91 0004 017421 Bronzit Bronze Metallic Gold 51 91 0 004 020425 Silverstone Silverstone Metallic Silver 51 91 1 052 663427 Neongelb Neon Yellow Standard Yellow430 Oxfordgruen II Oxford Green II Metallic Green 51 91 0 006 535433 Apricot Apricot Metallic Red 51 91 0 006 919 Yes436 Mahagoni Mahogany Metallic Brown 51 91 0 025 910438 Japanrot Japan Red Standard Red 51 91 0 009 166440 Stratus Stratus Metallic Silver 51 91 0 025 916441 Pazifikblau Pacific Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 2 351 566442 Graugrun Grey Green Metallic Green 51 91 0 025 913443 Saharabeige Sahara Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 0 005 252444 Skarabaesgruen Scarab Green Metallic Green 51 91 0 008 694 Yes445 Phonixgelb Phoenix Yellow Metallic Yellow 51 91 0 026 066447 Frostblau Frost Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 7 651 333448 Laguna Seca Laguna Seca Blue Standard Blue 51 91 0 026 069449 Schiefergrun Slate Green Metallic Green 51 91 0 026 324451 Aqua Aqua Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 551 Yes452 Amethyst Amethyst Metallic Purple 51 91 1 052 550453 Nachtblau Midnight blue Metallic Blue 51 91 1 052 556 Yes454 Tannengrun Tannen Green Metallic Green 51 91 1 052 561 Yes468 Pistaziengrun Pistachio Green Metallic Green 51 91 0 026 063470 Flamencorot Flamenco Red Metallic Red 51 91 0 137 939472 Sterlinggrau Sterling Gray Metallic Grey 51 91 0 136 774474 Sepia Sepia Metallic Brown 51 91 0 008 690 Yes475 Black Sapphire Black Sapphire Metallic Blue 51 91 0 026 327476 Ambra Amber Metallic Gold 51 91 0 137 937478 Satinbeige Satin Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 0 138 236481 Kalaharibeige Kalahari Beige Metallic Beige 51 91 0 138 230482 Toledoblau Toledo Blue Metallic Blue 51 91 0 138 231501 Blau Blue Blue503 Tuerkis Turquoise Green504 Blau Blue Blue505 Silber Silver Silver506 Klassischschwartz Classic Black Black507 Silbergraphit Silver Graphite Grey508 Rotrauch Red Smoke Red509 Rotrauch Red Smoke Red510 Daytonaorange Daytona Orange Orange511 Havanagold Havana Gold Gold518 Rot Red Red519 Schwarz Black Black520 Gruenrauch Green Smoke Green524 Bayerischblau Bavarian Blue Blue526 Bol D Bol D Standard Red529 Curry Curry Metallic Gold530 Silber Silver Metallic Silver531 Rot Red Metallic Red532 Schwarz Black Metallic Black533 Blau Blue Metallic Blue534 Verbranntorange Burnt Orange Metallic Orange538 Monzablau Monza Blue Blue541 Rot Red Metallic Metallic Red542 Alaskablau Alaska Blue Blue544 Pazifikblau Pacific Blue Blue545 Balligsilber Spheric Silver Silver546 Gold Gold Metallic Gold548 Silberbeige Silver Beige Silver549 Azurblau Azure Blue Blue551 Rot Red Metallic Red552 Phonixgold Phoenix Gold Gold553 Rotrauch Red Smoke Red556 Rotsilber Red Silver Red558 Pazifikblau Pacific Blue Blue559 Polaris Polaris Silver561 Silber Silver Smoke Silver562 Hennarot Henna Red Red563 Polaris Polaris Metallic Silver566 Rot Red Metallic Metallic Red572 Magentarot Magenta Red Red573 Balligsilber Spheric Silver Silver576 Madison Madison Metallic Silver577 Nuerburgruen Nuerburg Green Green583 Motorsport White Motorsport White White589 Pferd Bronco Beige603 Arizonasonne Arizona Sun Metallic Gold 51 91 0 008 692 Yes613 Arabergold Arabian Gold Gold622 Skarabaesgrun Scarab Green Metallic Green624 Sepiaviolett Sepia Violet Metallic Purple640 Birkenguren Birch Green Green668 Schwartz II Black II Standard Black 51 91 1 052 171717 Cortinagrau Cortina Gray Grey755 Keramikblau Ceramin Beige891 Moccabraun Mocha Brown Metallic Brown 51 91 0 146 477892 Titangrau Titanium Grey Metallic Grey 51 91 0 138 232894 Chiarettorot Chariot Red Metallic Red 51 91 0 138 234896 Bluewater Bluewater Metallic Blue 51 91 0 138 237897 Turmalinviolett Tourmaline Violet Metallic Purple 51910138235999 Perlweiss Pearl White---------------------------------------------------- This is a photo of a tag from an actual BMW car.http://www.automotivetouchup.com/paintpen.asphttp://autopaintpen.diytrade.com/sdp/544329/4/pd/2871144.htmlhttp://www.automotivetouchup.com/paint-codes/bmw.htm (jump to top)Interior colors (jump to top)   Velour fabric0291 = natur0222 = silber0221 = anthrazit0223 = indigo0224 = havanna0425 = pergament0424 = ultramarin0426 = brasil0423 = silbergrau0422 = anthrazit      Smooth leather: Nappa 0231/0237 = natur0227/0233 = silber0226/0232 = schwarz0228/0234 = indigo0229/0235 = havanna0238 = saddletan0239 = cardinalrot     Natural grain leather: Nappa0440/0434 = pergament0439/0433 = ultramarine0438/0436 = silbergrau bright0226/0232 = schwarz0441/0435 = brasil0323 = karmesinrot0437 = pergament bright     Natural grain leather: Buffalo0241 = havanna0240 = siamgrau0443 = brasil0442 = anthrazit
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language 1988 BMW 7-series (E32)  large pdf-file E32 E38 FORUM English 1992 BMW 7-series (E32) large pdf-file E32 E38 FORUM English    
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language BMW intervals E32: others commercial Savage BMW English          
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language EDC/LAD Niveauregulierung/electronic shock absorber PDF FILE E32?? E38 FORUM German    
MODELS LINKS Language E23 1982 to 1986   Dave the shark E23 directory of files English         
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language E32 1987 to 1993    Dave the shark E32 directory of files English E32 4HP24-22  Gearbox electrical details 2 page pdf E32: here English      
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language System Wiring Diagrams  740i 1995  E38 large directory of files English         
MODELS LINKS Language E24 1983 to 1989 6 Series    Dave the shark E24 directory of files English   E28 1982 to 1988 5 Series    Dave the shark E28 directory of files English  E30 1983 to 1992 3 Series    Dave the shark E30 directory of files English  E31 1991 to 1995 8 Series    Dave the shark E31 directory of files English  E34 1988 to 1995 5 Series    Dave the shark E34 directory of files English
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Do not steam clean with gay abandon !! E32 - general below English   Do not mix Petosin CHF 7.1 and 11s! E32: below English       Alert -Steam Cleaning  (jump to top)Do not mix Pentosin CHF 7.1 and 11s (jump to top)1. Where Pentosin CHF 7.1 is mentioned on the sticker of the reservoir, only refill with CHF 7.1.2. Mixing with other hydraulic oils could cause addititives to separate out as a flocculent, which then could block valves etc. The instruction not to mix is mentioned on the cans of the Pentosin 7.1That is apparently also mentioned in a special internal BMW info for the workshops.3. CHF 7.1 contains special lubricants/additives, which are required by the older systems on E32 and E34CHF 11S does not contain these additives in the required volume, it therefore cannot be used as alternative or replacement for 7.1 in case of tpping up and/or replacments of Pentosin 7.1.4 CHF 7.1 is green; CHF 11 is also green, but the colour is slightly lighter.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Fuel flap hinge: E32: below English   Checking if IR remote is working: text only E32: below English       FUEL FLAP HINGE  (jump to top) The E32 uses a plastic hinge to hold the fuel flap to the car.   The hinge tends to crack (can be difficult to see !!) and several people have lost or damaged the flaps from their cars.MAKE THIS CHECK BEFORE THE FLAP FALLS OFF!!    FIX IS GIVEN HERE Here is a typical example from Shogun's car. The green arrows indicate the two cracks. . Here is another example, only one crack this time Check that your IR remote is working:  (jump to top)Check that your IR remote is functioning:If you doubt that your IR remote is working, try holding the remote about 10 mm from a reflecting surface. A mirror should do just fine. Push the open button. After a short interval of blinking the LED will remain on. Now try holding the remote close to a non-reflecting surface. Press the open button. Now the LED should go off after the interval of blinking.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Minimum disk thickness E32: below English          DISC THICKNESS Thickness new : 28 mm Thickness minimum: 26.4 mm (1.039 ") Minimum specs are punched in the discs. In case you have 302X22 front disk rotors, then of course the min. is different. Just see and look at your rotors. http://www.nmia.com/~dgnrg/rb-06.jpg That is from the rear brake. Besides that have a look into the Bentley repair manual. The Importance of Observing "Scrap Thickness" DEFINITION Scrap Thickness - also known as Minimum Thickness, RMT (Rotor Minimum Thickness) and Discard Thickness - is a measurement determined by a motor vehicle-maker during the design phase.It defines the thickness at which a disc rotor must be replaced because it can no longer deliver the braking performance expected of it. Observing scrap thickness guidelines is vitally important to road safety. RISKS Though less conspicuous than minimum tyre tread depth (due to brake components being out of view), Scrap Thickness is every bit as important in safety terms.In the same way as poor tyres will negate the benefit of good brakes, a braking system which is not operating at its optimum can render useless a vehicle's other active safety systems. Using rotors which have reached Scrap Thickness will lead to lowered braking performance and can even result in brake system failure. A wide criteria is used by each motor vehicle manufacturer to determine the appropriate Scrap Thickness for each rotor application. They include the braking system's capacity for: Heat absorption and dissipation Calliper piston retention Brake pad retention, and Brake fluid retention To look at these in more detail: Heat Absorption And Dissipation The function of an automotive brake system is to convert a vehicle's kinetic energy into heat energy. In a modern disc brake system this is done when a driver pushes a brake pedal which activates a power-boosted hydraulic system. Hydraulic pressure forces pistons to move inside callipers at each road wheel. The piston movement in turn forces the brake pads in contact with the spinning rotor. The rubbing action between brake pads and the disc rotor generates heat which is then dissipated, mainly into the atmosphere by convection. As a rotor reduces in thickness, its ability to absorb and dissipate heat is lessened. Once Scrap Thickness has been reached, a significantly reduced braking capacity can result. Symptoms include premature fade and increased stopping distances. Calliper Piston Retention In the course of doing their job, disc brake rotors and pads experience wear. The machining away of rotor irregularities further accelerates the thinning process. As the rotor and pads become increasingly slender, the calliper piston needs to move further within the calliper body to force contact between pad and rotor. When Scrap Thickness is reached with fully worn pads, the extended piston may lack sufficient support within the calliper bore. This can cause it to jam in the bore, causing brake drag or lock. Brake drag will lead to excessive heat build-up and possible brake fluid vaporisation. The result: increased stopping distances and, potentially, half-system hydraulic failure. Brake Pad Retention The combination of fully worn brake pads and discs which are at Scrap Thickness can, in some calliper designs, allow the pad backing plate to jam between the calliper anchor bracket and rotor. This will cause either brake drag or wheel lock-up. Both can result in a loss of vehicle stability. An alternative scenario is that the pads will be torn completely free, severely impeding braking capacity and damaging other components. Brake Fluid Retention Under certain conditions when brake pads are fully worn and Scrap Thickness has been reached, the calliper piston may no longer form a hydraulic seal. This will result in leakage, causing increased stopping distances and, possibly, half-system hydraulic failure.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Check the heavy charge cable from alternator to the B-PostE32:M70belowEnglish   Check for cable breaks in the door-chassis gap E32 all below English     Charge cable failure   (jump to top)One of the first things a new M70 owner should check is the charge cable from the alterator to the B-post.Since the cable runs just above the exhaust it gets too hot and the insulation fails.The copper cable corrodes which raises its resistence leading to fires, low system voltage (caasues a lot of problems), and battery failure.The main part to check is the wire as it leaves the metal support pipe -- fairly easy to see -- grab the cable and twist it slightly -- the "good" looking insulation may fall off!Repairs are given here.   One result of ignoring the problem is shown here.what a bad cable looks like -- the bright shiny copper wire was attached to the alternator. Wire failures (jump to top) After 20 years of hard work the wires can become fatigued. Especially at the door-chassis gap. Peel back the rubber boot and check for cracks and breaks. Like the one below.
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language Fuel tank / filters: E32: below English Smell / leakage of petrol:    E32: below English       Fuel tank / filters (jump to top) If the car has not been run for 3 months and the fuel tank was not completely full, there could be water condensation mixed with the fuel or corrosion on the tank walls,  both of which could have clogged the fuel filter(s).  Replacing the filter(s) is hereCheck the fuel by disconnecting a petrol line at the injector rail -- IGNITION OFF AND BE CAREFUL TO CATCH THE PETROL THAT MIGHT SPRAY OUT-- Lead the pipe into a small bottle, switch the ignition on and check for water/dirt in the petrol. Smell / leakage of petrol:  (jump to top)The E32 can have a problem with the fuel pipes, particularly the joints of steel pipes and rubber hoses.In the engine room the the rubber hoses become hard with age and start to leak.The early models used a crimp type clamp that should have been replaced with a more regular screw type.The problem areas are the pipes/hoses against the firewall. With the 750 models they are difficult to access.These are the service instructions (PDF) on the matter
DESCRIPTION MODELS Language PHILLY BOB  text below E32?? English PHILLY BOB text below 735i/iL M30 with links E32 English ERIC HALL  text below   E32 740 English  German translation of Philly and Eric  Kaufhilfen für den E32 German Simple list in order of importance: Condition of fuel hoses in engine room System voltage is at least 12.8V Condition of heavy electrical cable from alternator to charge terminal Condition of  vacuum hoses to fuel pressure regulators Condition of fuel vapor hoses from charcoal cannister to DKs Presence of lipping on brake discs Condition of flexible brake hoses Condition of tires Cracks/leaks in radiator at gearbox cooler connections Leaks from water pump Excessive play in water pump bearings Condition of water hoses and heater water valves Condition of battery – presence of sulphates on terminals – cable condition Condition of steering linkages – damage to boots – loose joints – bent linkages Excessive play in steering Cracks in/leaks from sump Leaks from oil filter hoses/connectors   -- see also BMW service intervals   Starting at the front.. PHILLY BOB  (jump to top) Front suspension is a problem area. Drive at all speeds including highway and feel for shimmies or wobbles. An entire front end rebuild can set you back a thousand real quick. 750's are heavier and more powerful and therefore harder on the suspension. Look for uneven tire wear, especially cupping or scalloping. Its typical for the inside of front tires to wear first an all these cars. Its the factory camber setting. Engine should start instantly, run very smoothly and quietly. long cranking and rough idle can be intake manifold leaks and/or fuel pump or injector problems. These engines are very complex and will cost you surprisingly more to fix than a six or even a v8 and not just any mechanic will be up to the task of a drive by wire v12 with more electronics than the space shuttle. The valves are hydraulic so don't let somebody tell you they need adjusted to reduce valve noise like you can the 6 cyl. A Motor rebuild will easilly cost you more than the purchase price of the car. Fuel pumps.. (Yes Virginia, there are two) should be replaced by 150K if they have not gone out already. That'll be $600 in parts please.. What? Ohhh! You want them INSTALLED?? Make sure all lights, accessories and power functions work properly. Seat back twist is very common on a car this old. Seat function motors can also go out. The LKM module is a frequent casualty as is the CCM module. On Board computer is a frequent failure, and instrument cluster bulbs require dropping the steering column or removing the air bag/steering wheel and there are something like 24 bulbs.. my dealer charged me 5$ a piece for the bulbs. Under the car, motor mounts, trans mounts, trans and rear end seals and drive shaft center bearing and U-joints are all likely failures. The drive shaft is not rebuildable and will set you back close to a grand if you are not careful. The trans should have no leaks and shift very smoothly and flawlessly. The trans can cost up to $5K to replace so pay careful attention. Fluid should be clear (red) and clean and if is smells burnt, then thats what you will be if you buy it! Rear swingarm bushings can wear, causing rear squirming when goosing the throttle in manual shift mode. Clunking in the rear end can be loose suspension mounts or broken bolts on the carrier. The 750's are iL's and most have hydraulic load leveling (LAD). This system can develop leaks and is complex and expensive to repair. Also makes strut replacement more costly. A car this old will likely need struts, maybe all 4, if not also springs. And exhaust, Ahh yes the lovely exhaust.. That system is VERY expensive to replace and I have seen quotes for a thousand just for the parts not including installation. Interior, look for wear, and cracking in the leather, especially in the drivers seat and arm rest. BMW wants $900 for a new leather cover for one seat.. Then it needs to be installed. I just had a phone quote from an upholstery shop for $2000 to replace just the seating areas on two front seats. The Heat and AC needs to work perfectly. The controller is a notorious problem in these cars and if the AC doesn't work, don't believe him that it just needs charged.. The heater cores/pipes develop leaks, (leaking coolant sometimes into the drain there, but sometimes onto your carpet) especially in older e32's (like an 89!). This is a BEAR of a job and requires the nearly complete disassembly of most of the interior and dash just to get to it! MUCHO Labor costs! As always, a mechanic along is good, but you would be MUCH better off leaving a deposit and taking the car to a BMW dealer for a complete inspection. These cars are very complicated and unique and it will be WELL worth the money to get a thorough inspection so you know where ALL the problems are and can consider that in your purchase decision. Remember, this was a $70K car 13 years ago and the maintenance and repair costs will be commensurately far and above your basic Chevy or Buick! These cars in their "mature" years are not for the faint of heart or light of wallet! And I am sure I have left a few things out. Most imprtant of all is how and where the car was maintained. If was dealer maintained till the day you bought it and all records are available, then thats best. If Ronnie Ramjet had it and thought it was cool to drag race Chevelles with his V-12 but never changed the oil for 2 years, Run don't walk away and keep looking! You would probably spend more than the purchase price in maintainence the first year! Buy with your head and your calculator, not with your heart. The purchase price is just the beginning. Now you have to repair it if it breaks. These cars are addictive (ask any one of us) but sometimes love hurts! Sooo If you "Ain't Skeered" yet... God Speed and good luck! And welcome to the world of the e32 7's. These cars are like a certain woman I know (who will remain un-named). A true thing of beauty, but very high maintenance and demanding of a lot of attention... But she can perform like no other, and OOOOHHHHHHBABY!!! what she can do for you when you two are alone!!! Philly Bob 740 Common Problems ERIC HALL  (jump to top) Engine / Drive Train Nikasil Engine block Transmission Valve body Transmission fluid is very expensive, $25 per liter Transmission Flex Disk (Normal wear item) Transmission mounts (Normal wear item) Oxygen sensors (Normal wear item) Idle control valve (usually just dirty) Suspension Front end components (these are heavy cars) LAD, Self leveling system. Installed on all iL cars in the US. LAD Accumulators (inexpensive), or Struts (Expensive) Brakes &amp; brake disks (these are heavy cars) Sway bar links Cosmetic / Interior Seat back twist (or other seat position problems) Seat wiggle Door and windshield seals The transmission is sealed with no way to check with a dipstick. The fluid (Shell LA 2634) should be replaced at least every 100k miles. If not already done, this can cost over $300. The valve body can be a DIY job, the kit costs about $100. If it was done once, it should be good to go. If you notice any shifting problems with the car, offer a lot less for it. A rebuilt tranny will cost at least $2000 plus installation. If it has a Nikasil engine, stay away unless you get a great price. Engine replacements can cost $4000 or more. Make sure it is an Alusil block. The LAD is a great system but the struts are expensive. The system usually holds up pretty well, but you may need to do adjustments. A SUSPENSION LEVELING warning message usually means the system is out of adjustment. Use it for a barganing chip for a lower price if it shows up. The IHKA (Heater/Air Conditioner) system is complex and there have been a lot of problems with the older cars (88-90). It has not seemed to have caught up to the newer cars yet, but I could be wrong. The microfilter needs to be replaced on schedule. This is a partial list but I think it covers most of the big items. All prices are in US dollars. As always, get it checked by a competent BMW mechanic before you buy and make sure it has good maintenance history records. ====================================== Eric Hall 1994 740iL Black/Tan 80k Albany, OR PhillyBob wrote: PHILLY BOB 2    (jump to top) Well, I will share some of the common e-32 problems so you can be particularly aware when checking out the car... Starting at the front... Front suspension is a problem area.. Drive at all speeds including highway and feel for shimmies or wobbles. An entire front end rebuild can set you back a thousand real quick. Look for uneven tire wear, especially cupping or scalloping. Its typical for the inside of front tires to wear slightly faster on these cars. Its the factory camber setting. The M30 "big six" Engine should start instantly, run very smoothly and quietly. long cranking and rough idle can be intake manifold leaks and/or fuel pump or injector problems. Rough idle is a very common problem with the m30 engine. You can choose to fish out the cause, or live with it depending on your tolerance for such things. Valve noise to varying degrees is common on the m30 engine. Adjusting the valves to the proper lash is a common maintenance procedure. I have three of these engines and one is real quiet, one makes a little noise, and the other is scheduled for an adjustment. The fuel pump may need replaced by 150K or so. Head gaskets can sometimes develop leaks around 100-150K. Make sure all lights, accessories and power functions work properly. Seat back twist is very common on these cars car this old. Seat function motors can also go out. The LKM (light control module) module is a frequent casualty as is the CCM (check control module) module. OnBoard computer (OBC) is a frequent failure, and instrument cluster bulbs require dropping the steering column or removing the air bag/steering wheel and there are something like 24 bulbs.. my dealer charged me 5$ a piece for the bulbs. Sometimes the instrument clusters need a "capacitor fix" to eliminate malfunctions and error messages. Under the car, motor mounts, trans mounts, trans and rear end seals and drive shaft center bearing and U-joints are all likely failures. The drive shaft is not rebuildable and can set you back close to a grand if you are not careful. Making sure the brakes check out goes without saying. I have seen a few reports of a rear differential clunk being related to a loose (or broken) carrier bolt. The transmission should have no leaks and shift very smoothly and flawlessly. The trans can cost up to $2K to rebuild so pay careful attention. Fluid should be clear (red)and clean and if is smells burnt, then thats what you will be if you buy it! Rear swingarm bushings can wear, causing rear squirming when goosing the throttle in manual shift mode. Clunking in the rear end can be loose suspension mounts or broken bolts on the carrier. The e32 iL's have hydraulic load leveling (LAD). This system can develop leaks, uses pentosin fluid, and is complex and expensive to repair. Also makes strut replacement more costly. Some cars this old will need struts, maybe all 4, if not also springs. And exhaust, ahh yes the lovely exhaust. The system is expensive to replace and I have seen quotes for a thousand. This seems to be very dependent on whether salt is used on the roads in the area where the car has been driven. Interior, look for wear, and cracking in the leather, especially in the drivers seat and arm rest. BMW wants $900 for a new leather cover for one seat.. Then it needs to be installed. I just had a phone quote from an upholstery shop for $2000 to replace just the seating areas on two front seats. The front carpet cannot be replaced without MAJOR disassembley and removal of the interior including the heater core box. The Heat and AC needs to work perfectly. The heat/AC controller is a notorious problem in these cars and if the AC doesn't work, don't believe him that it just needs charged. If the blower motor only runs on high speed, then the car is likely in need of a "sword". The heater cores/pipes develop leaks, (leaking coolant sometimes into the drain there, but sometimes onto your carpet) especially in older e32's. This is a BEAR of a job and requires the nearly complete disassembly of most of the interior and dash just to get to it! MUCHO Labor costs! So I hope this gives you an idea of the more common problem areas. if your car seems to not have these problems and has been well maintained then its likely a good car. We ALWAYS urge potential buyers to pay to have a complete inspection at a BMW dealer before committing the big bucks to purchase a car that may cost them an additional several thousand to make right. Better to pay a hundred now than 3 thousand later, eh? PHILLY HALL GERMAN  (jump to top) Die Vorderachse ist ein Problemkind. Beweg ihn mal in allen Geschwindigkeitsbereichen, einschließlich Autobahn, und achte auf Vibrationen und Flattern. Eine neue Vorderachse kann ganz schnell einen Tausender kosten. Ein 750er ist schwer und belastet die Aufhängung daher stärker. Achte auf ungleichmäßigen Reifenverschleiß, insbesondere auf Auswaschungen. Normalerweise fährt sich bei allen diesen Wagen die Reifeninnenseite zuerst ab, das liegt am konstruktionsbedingten Sturz. Der Motor sollte sofort anspringen und sehr leise und rund laufen. Wenn er nicht gleich startet oder der Leerlauf rauh ist, können das Undichtkeiten an den Saugrohren und oder Probleme mit Kraftstoffpumpen oder Einspritzdüsen sein. Diese Motoren sind sehr komplex aufgebaut. Instandsetzungen daran sind deutlich teurer als Reparaturen an einem Sechszylinder oder sogar einem V8, und nicht jeder x-beliebige Mechaniker ist einem elektronisch gesteuerten V12 gewachsen, in dem mehr Elektronik verbaut ist als in einer Raumfähre. Die Ventile werden hydraulisch gesteuert, also laß Dir nicht erzählen, daß das Ventilspiel wie beim Sechszylinder eingestellt werden kann und sie danach wieder ganz leise sind. Eine Motorüberholung kann ganz schnell den Kaufpreis des Wagens übersteigen. Kraftstoffpumpen? Ja richtig, die Kraftstoffpumpen. Es gibt nämlich zwei davon - sie sollten bei etwa 150000 (Anmerkung des Übersetzers: wahrscheinlich Meilen) ausgetauscht werden, wenn sie nicht schon früher ausgewechselt worden sind. Die Materialkosten betragen USD 600... Wie bitte? Ach so - die sollen auch noch eingebaut werden? Du solltest darauf achten, daß keine Glühlampen durchgebrannt sind und daß alle Nebenaggregate und Servos richtig funktionieren. Bei so alten Fahrzeugen sind oft die Lehnen der Vordersitze verzogen. Auch die Motoren der Sitzverstellung können den Geist aufgegeben haben. LKM und CCM sind gern defekt. Der Bordcomputer ist oft nicht mehr in Ordnung. Um Lämpchen im Kombiinstrument austauschen zu können, muß die Lenksäule abgesenkt oder das Lenkrad mit dem Airbag ausgebaut werden. Insgesamt sind es etwa 24 Glühlämpchen, und meine Werkstatt hat mir pro Lämpchen USD 5 berechnet. Unter dem Wagen lohnt es sich, einen Blick auf die Motor- und Getriebeaufhängungen, die Kurbelwellen- und Getriebeabdichtungen, das Mittellager der Gelenkwelle und die Gleichlaufgelenke zu werfen. Damit kann es Probleme geben. Die Gelenkwelle kann nicht überholt werden, und wenn man nicht aufpaßt, ist man fast einen Tausie los. Das Getriebe sollte keine Undichtheiten aufweisen und sehr sanft und ruckfrei schalten. Der Austausch des Getriebes kann bis zu USD 5000 kosten, also ist sorgfältig aufpassen angesagt. Das Getriebeöl sollte klar (rot) und sauber sein - wenn es verbrannt riecht und man kauft den Wagen trotzdem, ist man angeschmiert! An der Hinterachse können die Lager in der Schwinge verschlissen sein. Das merkt man daran, daß sich das Fahrzeugheck bei starker Beschleunigung schwammig anfühlt. Poltern an der Hinterachse kann auf lose Stützlager oder gebrochene Schrauben am Hinterachsträger zurückzuführen sein. Die 750er sind im allgemeinen Langversionen. Die meisten haben eine hydraulische Niveauregulierung. Diese Anlage kann undicht werden, ist kompliziert und nur mit hohen Kosten instand zu setzen. Auch der Austausch der Stoßdämpfer geht stärker ins Geld als bei Fahrzeugen ohne Niveauregulierung. Bei einem so alten Fahrzeug müssen wahrscheinlich die Stoßdämpfer ausgetauscht werden, vielleicht sogar alle vier, und möglicherweise auch die Federn. Und erst die Auspuffanlage, die schöne Auspuffanlage! Der Austausch kostet SEHR viel Geld. Ich habe Kostenvoranschläge von USD 1000 gesehen, nur für die Teile. Der Einbau kommt noch extra. Im Innenraum insbesondere am Fahrersitz und der fahrerseitigen Armlehne auf Abnutzung und Scheuerstellen achten sowie auf Risse im Leder. Für neues Leder an einem einzigen Sitz verlangt BMW USD 900. Dazu kommen noch die Einbaukosten. Gerade hat mir eine Polsterwerkstatt am Telefon einen Preis von USD 2000 für das Ersetzen nur der Sitzflächen bei beiden Vordersitzen genannt. Heizung und Klimaanlage müssen störungsfrei funktionieren. Das Klimasteuergerät ist ein bekannter Schwachpunkt an diesen Fahrzeugen, und man sollte dem Verkäufer nicht glauben, wenn er behauptet, daß nur Kühlmittel nachgefüllt zu werden braucht. Besonders bei älteren E32 (z. B. einem 89er!) können Wärmetauscher und Rohrleitungen undicht werden - dann verliert er Kühlmittel, das in den Ablauf lecken kann, aber vielleicht auch auf Deinen Teppich! Die Anlage wieder dicht zu kriegen ist eine Arbeit für jemanden, der Vater und Mutter erschlagen hat. Nur um dranzukommen muß fast das ganze Fahrzeuginnere mitsamt dem Armaturenbrett auseinandergebaut werden. Sehr hohe Lohnkosten! Wie immer bei solchen Gelegenheiten macht es sich bezahlt, einen Mechaniker mitzunehmen, aber noch viel besser wäre es, ein Pfand beim Verkäufer zu lassen und den Wagen zu einer BMW-Werkstatt zu bringen und dort genau unter die Lupe nehmen zu lassen. Diese Fahrzeuge sind ausgesprochen kompliziert und individuell. Das Geld für eine gründliche Untersuchung ist daher bestimmt gut angelegt, damit man anschließend weiß, wo jeweils die Problemzonen liegen und dies dann bei seiner Kaufentscheidung berücksichtigen kann. Man darf nicht vergessen, daß ein solcher Wagen vor 13 Jahren USD 70000 gekostet hat und die Wartungs- und Instandhaltungskosten entsprechend weit über denen liegen, die für ein normales Feld-, Wald- und Wiesenauto aufgewendet werden müssen. Im reiferen Alter sind solche Fahrzeuge nichts für Zaghafte oder für Leute, die jeden Cent umdrehen müssen. Außerdem bin ich sicher, daß ich in meiner Auflistung einiges vergessen habe. Am wichtigsten ist, wie und wo der Wagen gewartet und gepflegt worden ist. Wenn das Fahrzeug bis zum Tag des Kaufs werkstattgepflegt worden ist und alle Nachweise vorhanden sind, dann ist das sicherlich das beste. Wenn der Vorbesitzer allerdings Gustav Gibgummi hieß und es geil fand, Straßenrennen mit aufgemotzten Mantas zu fahren, aber seit zwei Jahren keinen Ölwechsel mehr gemacht hat, dann laß ihn mitsamt seinem Auto stehen und such schleunigst das Weite. Dreh Dich nicht einmal um, sondern such einfach weiter. In so einem Fall würde man im ersten Jahr wahrscheinlich mehr als den ursprünglichen Kaufpreis in Reparaturen investieren müssen. Schalt’ Dein Gehirn und Deinen Taschenrechner ein und laß Dein Portemonnaie zu. Der Kaufpreis ist nur der Anfang. Wenn Du das Fahrzeug erst gekauft hast, dann bist Du derjenige, der es reparieren muß, wenn etwas kaputtgeht. Diese Autos sind wie eine Droge. Das wird Dir auch ein jeder von uns bestätigen können. Aber manchmal kann Liebe schon richtig wehtun! Wenn ich Dir bis jetzt immer noch keine Angst gemacht habe, wünsche ich Dir viel Erfolg und viel Glück. Und willkommen in der Welt der E32-Siebener. Diese Autos sind wie eine Frau, die ich kenne und deren Namen ich hier nicht nennen möchte - eine wahre Schönheit, die aber ungemein großer Zuwendung bedarf und sehr viel Aufmerksamkeit abfordert. Aber sie stellt alle anderen Frauen in den Schatten und - Mannomann! Was sie mit mir macht, wenn wir beide allein sind! Allgemeine Probleme beim 740er Motor/Antriebsstrang Nikasil Motorblock Getriebeschaltgerät Automatikgetriebeöl ist sehr teuer, USD 25 pro Liter Gelenkscheibe (Hardyscheibe) (Verschleißteil) Getriebeaufhängung (Verschleißteil) Klopfsensoren Leerlaufregelventil (ist normalerweise nur verschmutzt) Fahrwerk Vorderachse (Fahrzeuge sind schwer) Niveauregulierung, ist in den USA bei allen Langversionen verbaut Druckspeicher (preiswert) und Stoßdämpfer (teuer) der Niveauregulierung Bremsen und Bremsscheiben (Fahrzeuge sind schwer) Stabilisatorlagerung Aussehen/Innenausstattung Verwindung der Sitzlehnen (oder andere Probleme mit der Position der Sitze) Wackelnde Sitze Dichtungen an Türen und Windschutzscheibe Es gibt keinen Peilstab, mit dem der Ölstand im Getriebe kontrolliert werden kann. Das Getriebe ist völlig dicht. Das Getriebeöl (Shell LA 2634) sollte wenigstens alle 100000 miles ausgetauscht werden. Wenn das noch nicht erfolgt ist, kann es mehr als USD 300 kosten. Den Austausch des Schaltgeräts am automatischen Getriebes kann man selber machen, der Reparatursatz kostet etwa USD 100. Wenn die Arbeit schon gemacht worden ist, sollte es für eine Zeitlang ausreichen. Bemerkt man Probleme beim Schalten des Getriebes, sollte man den Preis des Fahrzeugs beträchtlich herunterhandeln. Eine überholtes Getriebe kostet wenigstens USD 2000, ohne Einbau. Wenn die Zylinderlaufbahnen des Motors eine Nikasil-Beschichtung aufweisen, sollte man die Finger vom Fahrzeug lassen, es sei denn, der Preis ist sehr, sehr günstig. Der Austausch des Motors kann USD 4000 und mehr kosten. Man sollte sich vergewissern, daß er einen Alusil-Block hat. Niveauregulierung ist etwas Wunderbares, aber die Dämpfer kosten einen Haufen Geld. Normalerweise geht an der Anlage nicht viel kaputt, aber sie muß möglicherweise eingestellt werden. Die Meldung SUSPENSION LEVELING ist im allgemeinen ein Hinweis darauf. Wenn die Meldung kommt, kann man den Kaufpreis drücken. Die Heizung/Klimaanlage ist kompliziert; mit älteren Fahrzeugen (BJ 88-90) gab es damit viele Probleme. An neueren scheint dies noch nicht der Fall zu sein, aber da bin ich mir nicht ganz sicher. Die Mikrofilter/Aktivkohlefilter müssen rechtzeitig ausgetauscht werden. Diese Aufstellung ist nicht vollständig, aber die die meisten wichtigen Dinge habe ich damit wohl erschlagen. Alle Preise sind in USD angegeben. Es empfiehlt sich, das Fahrzeug vor dem Kauf von einem guten BMW-Mechaniker durchsehen zu lassen und darauf zu achten, daß Wartungsnachweise vorhanden sind.  (jump to top)
DESCRIPTION MODELS LINKS Language BMW Service Checklist I E32: below English  BMW Service Checklist II  E32: below English       BMW Service Checklist I  (jump to top) BMW Service Maintenance Checklist BMW Engine Oil Service Required Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature. Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature (only at 1st engine oil service). Reset Service Indicator Note: Do not reset Service indicator when additional oil changes (between the normal intervals) are requested by the customer.) BMW Oxygen Sensor Replacement Required at intervals of 100,000 miles BMW Inspection I Undercarriage Change engine oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature. Check transmission for leaks. Check rear axle for leaks. Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks. Check power steering system for leaks Remove and install front and reat disc brake pads, check overall thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact pointsin calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods,front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc. Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage and incorrect positioning. Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking brake if necessary. Check all tie pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; incase of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested (to beinvoiced separately). Note: If requested, rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance (invoice separately). Engine Compartment Read out diagnostic system. Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary. Note: Coolant must be replaced every 2 years (time interval begins fromvehicle's production date). Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill upand/or correct if necessary. Check air conditioner for operation. Reset Service Indicator. Body/Electrical Equipment Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required. Perform battery load test. Checking lighting system, I.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license plate, interior (including map reading lights, glove box, flash-light, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights. Check insturment panel and dashboard illumination. Check all warning/indicator lights, check control. Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, head-light dimmer and flasher switch. Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions. Check rear window washerlevel and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct. Check condition and function of safety belts. Oil hood, trunk/tailgate and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and door latches. Check operations of all latches. Check central locking/double lock. Replace microfilter. Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions. Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger. Check rear view mirrors. Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories. Activate automatic roll-over protection system if equipped) via diagnostic link. Note: First remove hardtop/lower top. Final Inspection Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission. BMW Service Checklist II  (jump to top) BMW Service Maintenance Checklist BMW Engine Oil Service Required Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature. Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature (only at 1st engine oil service). Reset Service Indicator Note: Do not reset Service indicator when additional oil changes (between the normal intervals) are requested by the customer.) BMW Oxygen Sensor Replacement Required at intervals of 100,000 miles BMW Inspection II Includes all items listed under Inspection I and the following checks and maintenance operations: Engine Compartment Replace spark plugs. Replace intake air cleaner element.Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions. Check condition of all drive belts. Undercarriage Change ATF in automatic transmission while at normal operating temperature. Change oill in manual transmission while at normal operating temperature. Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature. Check thickness of parking brake linings. Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots. Replace fuel filters. Recommended in California, required in all other states. Note: Reduce replacement interval if fuel contamination is encounteredor prevalent. Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years). At Every Second Inspection II: Change oil in manual transmission while at normal operating temperature. Check clutch disc for wear.  (jump to top)